I do work for boral plasterboard its just down the road from the shell refinery at clyde and with the amount of bp tankers going in and out of it all day, everyday there ain,t no way the fuel made in qld or any other state would get anywhere near sydney.
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Best Diesel Fuel
Originally posted by Talktheroo View PostBP is the only company in Australia that produces their diesel fuel to the European standard of 50+ cetane. All modern diesel engines are designed around this standard because it's the biggest market in the world for vehicle manufacturers. So BP is the only fuel to use.
For your information : Caltex 46 cetane, Shell 49 cetane. All independents use these two brands so no going there, at least for me.
The Roo.
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Originally posted by SujitPrasad View PostMy 2010 Prado Kakadu has just clicked 42,000 km's this week. Since reading about Cetane rating of the BP fuel on PradoPoint, I have not filled my baby with anything apart from BP Diesel. I have not had any issues in the 42,000 km's that I have run todate. If you want my opinion and share my experience, go with BP diesel purely based on the higher Cetane rating it has and it has not given me any grief.
Cheers Andrew[COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]
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I work for BP, we buy our fuel from whichever refinery has the best price at the time. The only thing we add to it is a wax modifier for cold onditions. Most of our diesel comes from a shell refinery. My understanding is most servos do the same. Don't be fooled by the badge on the pole ! THe only exception to this is BP ultimate, which is only supplied from caltex refinery as the shell stuff doesnt meet the spec. Also each batch of diesel is made slightly different, so reading a lab report is only showing results from one batch, this is not going to be the result from every batch every time.
We get a lab report fo most batches as we have to be aware of the cloud point being so cold here and I can tell you that the Shell product we use has a consistent cetane rating over 50 which I believe is the aust standard anyway. As for the additives, well they call it snake oil, for a reason, it's all a waste of money!
Cheers
Phil06 120 GXL 1KZ-TE man, modified exhaust, K&N, OME 2",spacers, Sovereign BB, Safari Snorkel, Hella 4000, 33" muddies, ARB 60L fridge / slide ,custom rear drawer, cargo barrier and table, Ironman 9500lb Winch, TJM underbody guards, DIY Radiator bash plate, Outback Ideas recovery points, AJ's sliders, CKMA12, lockers, ext rear breather, UHF, dual batt, SBi12, ARB alloy roof cage, ARB side awning...
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Does Australian diesel contain a biocide? If not, when should one use it (perhaps in the tropics?) and what are the best brands? These questions are prompted by the fact that a couple of members have fuel system damage allegedly from algae in their tanks. Repair costs of $11,000 have been suggested!
Glenn
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Originally posted by fourbyphil View PostI work for BP, we buy our fuel from whichever refinery has the best price at the time. The only thing we add to it is a wax modifier for cold onditions. Most of our diesel comes from a shell refinery. My understanding is most servos do the same. Don't be fooled by the badge on the pole ! THe only exception to this is BP ultimate, which is only supplied from caltex refinery as the shell stuff doesnt meet the spec. Also each batch of diesel is made slightly different, so reading a lab report is only showing results from one batch, this is not going to be the result from every batch every time.
We get a lab report fo most batches as we have to be aware of the cloud point being so cold here and I can tell you that the Shell product we use has a consistent cetane rating over 50 which I believe is the aust standard anyway. As for the additives, well they call it snake oil, for a reason, it's all a waste of money!
Cheers
Phil2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto
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Originally posted by Talktheroo View PostInteresting question Glen. The best way to deal with this issue is to use what you buy and don't leave any diesel fuel in your tanks for an extended period of time. The other thing to do is to install a pre filter into your vehicle, the ones that have the clear catch bowl down the bottom so you can see water or any other rubbish that may come up from the tanks.
I don't know what vehicle that you own but if it's the KDJ120 or the 150 you will need to install a Racor 230R filter assembly or higher. The reason for this is the flow rate, it needs to be pretty high. On the KZJ95s, I am still looking into this but it looks like it is going to be the Racor R120T filter assembly as it will fit into the engine bay which is pretty cramped around where the genuine filter is installed by the factory.
I don't recommend the CAV296/711 stuff because of the flow rate and the fact that they are not designed for electronic injection systems, mechanical only. This includes the Ryco unit as well which is a shame really because it's a good unit that is sooo.... cheap but it has a flow rate of only 45L per hour, the same as the CAV unit.
Interesting to note, is that some diesel mechanics out there are offering these units as pre filters. Well, don't buy them as they will surely restrict the flow and damage either the supply pump or the injector pump, depends which model you own.
The answer to the biocide question, you would have to get on to the head offices of each company to find this out off their tech departments, putting you through, so to speak.
Hope this helps you out Glenn, the Roo.2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto
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Good Luck with that Roo, can I place a preorder for a loan ?
Cheers phil06 120 GXL 1KZ-TE man, modified exhaust, K&N, OME 2",spacers, Sovereign BB, Safari Snorkel, Hella 4000, 33" muddies, ARB 60L fridge / slide ,custom rear drawer, cargo barrier and table, Ironman 9500lb Winch, TJM underbody guards, DIY Radiator bash plate, Outback Ideas recovery points, AJ's sliders, CKMA12, lockers, ext rear breather, UHF, dual batt, SBi12, ARB alloy roof cage, ARB side awning...
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Hey sacred cow, don't know uh about biocides , but I know we don't add them to our 26000 litre tank which has breather pipe and the tank is about 30 years old and no probs here
Cheers
Phil06 120 GXL 1KZ-TE man, modified exhaust, K&N, OME 2",spacers, Sovereign BB, Safari Snorkel, Hella 4000, 33" muddies, ARB 60L fridge / slide ,custom rear drawer, cargo barrier and table, Ironman 9500lb Winch, TJM underbody guards, DIY Radiator bash plate, Outback Ideas recovery points, AJ's sliders, CKMA12, lockers, ext rear breather, UHF, dual batt, SBi12, ARB alloy roof cage, ARB side awning...
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Originally posted by Riv39 View PostPhil, interesting read....when I spoke to BP about diesel in Sydney they said it came from either Caltex or offshore (Asia). Shell was not mentioned at all as a supplier, perhaps Shell is used for unleaded. To my knowledge BP ultimate Diesel is still not avaialble in Sydney let alone NSW. I keep asking my local BP servo at Normanhurst here in Sydney and they have been given no indication from BP HQ when it will be available.
Cheers
Phil06 120 GXL 1KZ-TE man, modified exhaust, K&N, OME 2",spacers, Sovereign BB, Safari Snorkel, Hella 4000, 33" muddies, ARB 60L fridge / slide ,custom rear drawer, cargo barrier and table, Ironman 9500lb Winch, TJM underbody guards, DIY Radiator bash plate, Outback Ideas recovery points, AJ's sliders, CKMA12, lockers, ext rear breather, UHF, dual batt, SBi12, ARB alloy roof cage, ARB side awning...
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Originally posted by Talktheroo View PostHmmm, those little beasties just love that carbon. There's always a chance of a growth happening even on the closed system. The reason for this is you change that environment everytime you undo the cap to fill up, shhh goes the cap especially near or on empty.
For argument sake, if you were going overseas because you won lotto or something, for years at a time, the best thing to do would be to drain all the diesel fuel out of your tanks and let it sit there empty with no fuel in the tanks. You would also change out the engine oil with new oil and run the engine so you coat all the internal components with fresh oil.
Now you might say, well you should not do this to a common rail or any modern diesel engine for that matter. It comes down to what worse, the growth or no fuel in the tanks. If you don't do it to many times you shouldn't get damage in the supply pump or the injectors. When you do run out of fuel in the tanks, you don't keep on trying to start it as you have to remember that no fuel in the lines equals no lubricant in the supply pump and the injectors or in the case of the 1KZ-TEs, the fuel pump. The other option is to fill the tank right up to the top so there is no air in the tanks at all. I prefer the first option as there is little for the growth to fester on. Some interesting reading brought to you by your friendly BP team.
http://www.bp.com/liveassets/bp_inte...age_diesel.pdf
The lotto thing is what is going to happen to me, I know it, and you know it, the Roo.
"Fungicides/Biocides. These work by stopping fungus and bacteria from growing in the fuel and so prolong the life of the fuel. They are only effective on fungus and bacteria and will not stop other oxidation reactions from taking place. They are normally active at the water fuel interface where the fungus and bacteria grow. If fungus is present then a kill dose is required. Otherwise a maintenance dose is used to stop fungus growing. The disadvantages of biocides are:
• handling and mixing is hazardous because they are poisons.
• for a kill dose, killing the fungus can lead to a build up of dead matter which will block filters and also cause the fuel to oxidise.
• ideally, the fungus should be killed and then the tank emptied and drained out.
• maintenance doses are effective but no more so than regular water draining.
• disposal of water bottoms requires special handling with due regard to the environment."
Specifically the fact that they are "normally active at the water fuel interface". The way I read this is that water must be present.2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto
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Originally posted by Snaga View PostThe Diesel that Woolworths Servos supply... is that any good as I do like getting my 8c / lt discounts
Now only every using BP Ultimate...2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL
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179,000k's 2003 GXL slug, still going great, use mainly Woolworths where available, otherwise BP or Shell.
Keep a check on water in filter (nil so far). No problems yet, but depends as to when I get a load of crap fuel somewhere when I get lazy and do not make sure I get fuel from truck stops where I see a lot being filled up.
Good indication of servo with little or no fuel tank problems..John
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Well the choice gets even worse in NSW as Caltex moves to close their refinery here in Sydney:
http://www.smh.com.au/business/calte...726-22sd6.html
Looks like we will most likely be using 100% imported diesel here in Sydney after they shut this refinery down as I can't see it being shipped from other state refineries. Heaven help this country if it ends up at war with some other nation as we won't be able to produce our own fuel soon. What a sad and sorry situation after all the effort put in post WWII to ensure each state could be pretty much self suffecient for fuel production.2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto
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I spoke with a guy who services the pumps etc for service stations across Sydney from his point of view based on contamination in there tanks and pumps his advice is don't touch 7eleven they don't get tanks cleaned due to cost and he only uses Caltex as they are the cleanest and the others are pretty similar with the odd bad one
that was his opinion based on Sydney servos.
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