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  • DIY - Brake Pad change (includes pics)

    WARNING: What follows is a basic HOW-TO guide, showing how to change the front and rear brake pads on a 120 series Prado. Just letting you know I am NOT a mechanic and won't be held responsible for any damage which may result from this procedure. I am just showing how I do it. If you don't believe you have the mechanical knowledge or confidence then I suggest you have the work carried out by a qualified mechanic or brake specialist.

    FRONT Brakes:
    Before starting, I removed the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, removed the filter / float and removed some brake fluid. Make sure you wipe any dirt and grime from the reservoir and lid BEFORE you open it. While changing the pads I leave the cap off but just place a clean rag over it to stop any dust or debris from falling in.


    The front brake pads are held in the caliper by two pins which are secured by a couple of small spring clips. Remove the spring clips with a pair of pliers and then slide the pins out.


    At this stage, note that there is another spring clip which the bottom pin goes through. Take note as to how it is placed. Draw yourself a sketch or take a pic if you need to, so that you know how it goes when you put it back together!


    Once this clip is removed you can slide the old pads out from the back of the caliper. They might need a bit of encouragement. I just used a large screwdriver to jiggle them around a bit until they came out.


    Remove the backing plates from the old pads and install them on the new ones.


    Make sure you install the new pads in the correct location. The INNER pad can be identified by a wear indicator. (Or in the case of Bendix pads they actually have inner / outer stamped on the pad.)


    In order for you to install the new pads, you'll need to push the brake pistons back into the caliper. You can get brake spreaders from Supercheap or if you're like me, you'll just use a large screwdriver or something similar to wedge in there. Don't rush this as it can be a bit fiddly. Do one side at a time. Because the Prado brakes have 4 piston calipers, you'll find that as you push one in, the other one will want to come out. Push them slowly as you definately DO NOT want a piston to pop out.


    At this stage start keeping an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir. The reason for this is that as you push on the brake pistons, the fluid level will rise and you don't want it to overflow. That's also why I removed the lid and some of the fluid before I started.

    Once you've pushed the inner pistons back you should be able to slide the new pad into place. Then repeat on the outer side. Insert the (large) spring clip at the bottom, then slide the retaining pins into place. Secure them with the little spring clips.

    Done!

    -----------------------------------------


    Now for the REAR brakes:

    These are just a little bit more complicated to do but still shouldn't present any major problems.

    As the rear brakes are of a floating caliper design, you'll need to actually remove the piston housing from the caliper in order to remove the pads.


    Using a 17mm spanner or socket, remove the 2 bolts / sliding bushes and remove the back half of the caliper containg the piston.


    It might be possible to just remove one bolt / bush, loosen the other one and just swing the back caliper out of the way but I found it wouldn't quite go far enough for me to remove the outer brake pad.


    Once you've removed the brake pads, remove the backing plates and any other clips from the old ones and fit them to the new pads.


    Before fitting the new pads to the calipers, make sure any clips or guides are firmly in place. Sometimes they can work loose when removing the old pads.


    With the rear brakes there's only one piston which needs to be pushed back and for this I used one of those sliding screw clamps (like a G clamp I suppose). Again keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.

    Slip the caliper back over the pads. Before you re-fit the bolts / bushes, clean them thoroughly with a clean rag and coat them with some silicone grease.


    Carefully slide them through the back of the caliper making sure the dust boots snap into place. Tighten them up and you're done!

    Usually when I change pads, I take the opportunity to change the brake fluid as well so at this stage I'd remove most of the fluid in the reservoir and then fill it up with new fluid. Toyota recommends DOT 3 fluid but I used DOT 4 as that's what I had. The main difference being DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. Under NO circumstances use DOT 5.1 as this is silicone based and DOES NOT mix with DOT3 or 4once in your system.

    Replace the cap on the reservoir, start your engine and gently press the brake pedal a couple of times. Don't be surprised if the brake pedal almost hits the floor the first time. This will be due to the pistons having been pushed back when fitting the new pads.

    Take it for a gentle drive around the block to make sure everything's working ok.

    I'll mention at this stage that when I took mine for a drive for the first time, the ABS warning light came on for a couple of kms. Again I'll put this down to the brake pistons not being in position. As soon as I did a couple of hard stops, the light went out and all was good but I have to admit I did get that sinking feeling for a moment there.

    All up, this operation took me about an hour and a half but would have been quicker if I wouldn't have stopped for photos all the time. I didn't remove my discs for machining as they didn't appear at all glazed or scored. If you do a lot of stop-start city driving and your discs are glazed or damaged, I'd suggest you get them machined or replaced. The old pads were genuine Toyota, the new ones are Bendix 4WD. The improvement in pedal feel and stopping power is amazing and I'm very happy with what I've done.

    If anyone has any questions or improvements to my little HOW-TO, feel free to contact me. Moderators can you please place this in the Tech section if you feel what I've done here is suitable.

    Cheers, Markus.
    [color=#BF4000]2003 V6, Auto, GXL, Factory Bullbar, Rhino Roofbars, Bosch and Hella spotties, Cooper AT3, Bilstein shocks, Ironman awning, GME UHF, MaxTrax.[/color]
    [url]www.kymarphotography.com.au[/url]

  • #2
    Great write up! I'm hot happy with the initial bite of the OE Toyota pads. What are the Bendix pads like for this?
    [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

    Comment


    • #3
      just a tip to add to this procedure,
      sit the brake reservior cap on.
      this is done because if you depress the caliper pistons back too quick,
      e.g a little tight and it suddenly moves,
      the fluid rush back into the reservior, can sqwirt brake fluid up in the reservior.
      with the cap sitting in place, this will just drip back into reservior,
      and will save sometime cleaning brake fluid off your bonnet and
      inner guards - if you notice it.
      other than that it mostly correct, enough for a backyarder to know.
      the only thing as a mechanic i don't do, is remove the rear sliding caliper section.
      i just hold up and remove pads, but do check to ensure it slides freely,
      and condition of pins and rubbers
      [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/damonat/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/50578.png[/img][/url]

      Comment


      • #4
        What I found with the Toyota pads was that in normal driving (up to say 60-70kmh) they didn't seem to do much unless I absolutely stood on the pedal. Even on dirt, I almost NEVER felt the ABS kick in.

        With the Bendix you can feel them work as soon as you touch the pedal and with a decent amount of pressure the car just nosedives. They work really well. Now on dirt, it doesn't take much for the ABS to kick in. Just shows how crap the tires are I guess.

        Only time will tell how they go for disc wear, dust, and pad wear. As I bought the Prado 2nd hand I have no idea how long the old pads were in for.
        [color=#BF4000]2003 V6, Auto, GXL, Factory Bullbar, Rhino Roofbars, Bosch and Hella spotties, Cooper AT3, Bilstein shocks, Ironman awning, GME UHF, MaxTrax.[/color]
        [url]www.kymarphotography.com.au[/url]

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by damonat
          the only thing as a mechanic i don't do, is remove the rear sliding caliper section.
          i just hold up and remove pads, but do check to ensure it slides freely,
          and condition of pins and rubbers
          I tried to just remove one pin (the bottom one) and loosen the other but couldn't swing the rear caliper enough to get the pads out. The brake hose stopped it moving further. It might have worked if I'd removed the top pin and loosened the bottom one but by that stage it was just as easy for me to remove it.

          Thanks for your comments.
          [color=#BF4000]2003 V6, Auto, GXL, Factory Bullbar, Rhino Roofbars, Bosch and Hella spotties, Cooper AT3, Bilstein shocks, Ironman awning, GME UHF, MaxTrax.[/color]
          [url]www.kymarphotography.com.au[/url]

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by mkh
            What I found with the Toyota pads was that in normal driving (up to say 60-70kmh) they didn't seem to do much unless I absolutely stood on the pedal. Even on dirt, I almost NEVER felt the ABS kick in.

            With the Bendix you can feel them work as soon as you touch the pedal and with a decent amount of pressure the car just nosedives. They work really well. Now on dirt, it doesn't take much for the ABS to kick in. Just shows how crap the tires are I guess.

            Only time will tell how they go for disc wear, dust, and pad wear. As I bought the Prado 2nd hand I have no idea how long the old pads were in for.
            Thanks that's what I am after. I drive 45 klms each way to work on a freeway often braking at 100 km/h. I know what the 'stand on the pedal' is like. I often underestimate the braking distance as they just don't bite. In my previous car, a light tap on the brakes would put you through the windscreen.
            [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

            Comment


            • #7
              the thing that i like about toyota pads is,
              the pads are soft in comparisen to others (less metallic compound).
              meaning that the pads wear and not the disc's.
              all the toyota vehicles that my family and friends have had over the time,
              i have always recommended to keep the the toyota pads as they are matched
              with the disc's and we all get huge km's using them.
              i remember a mate still to this day, still talks about 160000kms on the original pads.
              this is not uncommon.
              that said, a customer i remember complaining about only get 40000kms
              out of their pads in a 100 series. it doesn't help that they tow a float most days.
              people need to realise, that that these vehicles are made for the masses.
              if you want a vehicle specifically built to last a specific task or have certain
              vehicle characteristics, then you need to change items or have a vehicle built for you.
              as you can tell, this customer really pi$$es me off.
              back to the topic.
              the toyota pads are good for a lot of conditions, but people like different things.
              some like more aggresive braking, others like the standard.
              either way, changing pads is easy to do (as long as you get it right),
              and pads are cheap.
              [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/damonat/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/50578.png[/img][/url]

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks MKH for the step by step guide. Think I'll have a crack at it next time.

                If all fails I'll call Lube Mobile :lol: :lol:
                Cheers,
                Dustie

                Self confessed PP addict!! hmm.. now thats not a bad habit is it......

                Comment


                • #9
                  It is easier to push to pistons back into the caliper by putting a large screwdriver between the old pad & the rotor instead of trying to do it after removing the pads as shown (less chance of damaging the piston boots as well)

                  Also if you loosen the bleeder nipple (put a bleeder hose on it into a bottle of fluid) on the caliper you can push the pistons back without removing fluid from the master cylinder resivour as the excess fluid will push out of the nipple instead of going back up to the resivour (be careful not to let air come back into the caliper while the nipple is open)

                  Toyota recomend & sell dot 3 fluid as dot 4 can cause problems when used in some late model toyota's & to change it corectly you need to flush it through the pipes & calipers & not just replace what is in the master cylinder resivour

                  Also when you have replaced the pads & need to bring the pads up to the rotor don't press the pedel all the way to the floor to do this but do it in short pedel strokes because if the master cylinder bore is marked you can damage a cup on the bore if you do long pedel strokes

                  Regards Don

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: DIY - Brake Pad change (includes pics)

                    guide truly complete and comprehensive, thanks MKH!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: DIY - Brake Pad change (includes pics)

                      Originally posted by giordanojgor
                      guide truly complete and comprehensive, thanks MKH!
                      Same here, just replaced all the pads and could not have done it without your guide as it gave me confidence to tackle the job.

                      Thanks again
                      October 2003 build GLX Prado Diesel. Nudge Bar, window tinting, fitted sheepskin seatcovers, bonnet protector, cargo barrier, sandgrabba mats and empty pockets.
                      Retired Nt Police and now TPI

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: DIY - Brake Pad change (includes pics)

                        A really good guide, did the rear brakes no dramas.
                        Cheers,
                        Dustie

                        Self confessed PP addict!! hmm.. now thats not a bad habit is it......

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: DIY - Brake Pad change (includes pics)

                          Glad it helped you guys. Good on ya for giving it a go.

                          Cheers.
                          [color=#BF4000]2003 V6, Auto, GXL, Factory Bullbar, Rhino Roofbars, Bosch and Hella spotties, Cooper AT3, Bilstein shocks, Ironman awning, GME UHF, MaxTrax.[/color]
                          [url]www.kymarphotography.com.au[/url]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: DIY - Brake Pad change (includes pics)

                            I'm about to do Bendix 4wd pad and DBA rotor change soon. Just a couple of questions- do you need to do anything to the pads and rotors before you put them on? e.g. for pads do you need to smear that desqueaker muck on them. for rotors do they need to be cleaned using brake cleaner? Also, do you have to avoid hard braking for a short while or can you pretty much brake however you want to straight away?

                            cheers
                            [size=2][color=#00BF40][b]2003 120 GXL V6 auto[/b]. GME TX3440 and AE4703, Mickey Thompson ATZ 4 rib LT265/70R17 plus roadies, Ausguard cargo barrier, BD bash plate, OME lift with Sport shocks. And hopefully more to come, slowly slowly...[/color][/size]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: DIY - Brake Pad change (includes pics)

                              G'day.
                              The Bendix pads have that "Titanium Stripe" which eliminate the need for "bedding in". You can just drive off and stand on them right away. As far as anti squeal stuff goes, I've never used it on any of my cars. I did notice when I changed the pads on the Prado (and also on my Jeep) I occassionally had a faint sqeal coming from the brakes but this stopped after the first hundred kays or so.

                              Most discs when you get them will be covered in a grease (to stop them rusting when in storage) so you'll need to clean them before fitting. You can get a brake cleaner or just use metho on a rag. Just make sure you get them really clean.

                              Cheers,
                              Markus.
                              [color=#BF4000]2003 V6, Auto, GXL, Factory Bullbar, Rhino Roofbars, Bosch and Hella spotties, Cooper AT3, Bilstein shocks, Ironman awning, GME UHF, MaxTrax.[/color]
                              [url]www.kymarphotography.com.au[/url]

                              Comment

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