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Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

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  • Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

    10-Mar-2008: First Draft.
    11-Mar-2008: Red wire is Accessories, Ignition is Blue/Yellow. Thanks to eagle-eyed Chuck.
    12-Mar-2008: Final pic of installation.
    14-Mar-2008: Brief description of removing switch and faceplate + precaution to disconnect battery + orientation of ARB toggle switch
    06-Apr-2008: As per Leachy's post, make sure the control circuit is fused.

    This is the definitive guide to installing the ARB High Output On-Board Air Compressor - CKMA12 in a 2008 Toyota Prado GXL D4D. Let me know if I've missed something - I'll keep updating this post as needed.

    The topics covered include:
    1. The Product - ARB High Output On-Board Air Compressor - CKMA12[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    2. Locating the Compressor[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    3. Running the wire-loom through the firewall[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    4. Location of Power Sources: Ignition or Accesories, and llumination[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    5. Fitting the ARB Switch[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    6. Bolting the Compressor[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    7. Test Results[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    The motivation for this has come largely from others who urged me on during the process, helping to answer many of the questions that were not already covered in other posts. A big thanks to Crammy and Plucker for inflating the gaps and supplying several of the tips that I am documenting here! (It's a PP brain-share).

    Whilst the instructions that are supplied with the compressor are first-rate, they are generic. This is intended to focus on the idiosyncrasies of the Prado installation. The install vehicle is a 2008 D4D GXL.

    Related threads:

    1. The Product
    The price I paid was $280 for the compressor and $64 for the hose kit.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    2. Locating the Compressor
    Preferred location is the passenger-side, near the firewall and on the wheel arch.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    2.1 Masking Tape
    Lay some masking tape to protect the paint-work and also to assist later with drilling.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    2.2 Orientation
    This pump gets very hot, so mount it where there is no contact with other hoses and cables. For me, I preferred an orientation that kept it furthest from any hoses. This was a diagonal position, (North-East), though others have mounted theirs East-West or North-South. I will note that NE orientation meant that it was difficult to mount the backing-plate. Though, this seems to be a common problem with other orientations also. More on the backing plate later. Here is the orientation I chose:
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    Move any cables and hoses away from the work area. Be sure to remember to reattach them at the end of the job ops:.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    2.3 Say a Prayer and Start Drilling
    Take a breath, double-check you have marked the drill-holes correctly and let the drilling begin. [I made a mistake at this step. I carefully laid the template at right-angles to the way it should have been. I ended up with 3 extra holes .

    :idea: I recommend you draw an arrow on the template to avoid my mistake.
    :idea: Place a step by the car - it's easier to drill when standing on a 30cm platform
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    2.4 Clean Up as You Go
    Vacuum up the metal shavings.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    2.5 Protect the Bare Metal
    Add some touchup paint to coat the bare-metal. Mine was supplied with the vehicle.

    • Artist at work![/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    3 Running the Wire-Loom Through the Firewall
    Whilst waiting for the paint to dry, now is the time to start running the wiring loom. With advice from Crammy and Plucker, I also ran mine through the firewall on the driver's side. This makes it easy to hook into power at the fuse-box. I also spent a lot of time poking the cables through the rubber-bung.
    • From the engine-bay, I used a sharp knife to open a slit, then started pushing the wiring loom through the rubber-bung.[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • Then in the driver's footwell, I removed the kick-panel to access the rubber-bung from inside.[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • Finally, another slit and carefully tugging the wiring loom through the firewall.[/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    4 Location of Power Sources
    You will need to locate two power sources, Illumination and Ignition/Accessory. A Voltmeter makes this straight-forward and is very handy for confirming your connections.

    4.1 Illumination Power (Green Wire)
    One source is for illuminating the switch when the headlights are on. You can access this from many places. Since the "Idle Start" button has an illumination source, I used that (Green wire). The switch is easily pushed out if you open the fuse box, reach up behind the switch and apply some pressure, perhaps with some wriggling (of the switch, that is!).

    Notice that the ARB kit comes with a Scotch-Lock splicing connector (that's the bulky white object in the picture below). This made the splice a piece of cake!
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    4.2 Use Ignition or Accessory Power
    At this point, you might consider disconnecting the battery. I didn't, though after it was all done, other knowledgeable folk recommended taking this precaution. Note, that neither of the wires below are live as long as the key is in the OFF position, so I'm not sure what else is gained by disconnecting the battery.

    The other power-source connects to the ignition or accessories power, (your choice), so only when you turn the key to the slected position will the compressor be operable. Fortunately, both power sources are readily accessible behind the fuse-box panel. Notice the thick guaged Blue/Yellow (Ignition) and Red (Accessories) wires.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    Splice the ARB ignition wire onto the selected cable. Like others before me, I chose the Blue/Yellow (Ignition) cable. In the field, I found this to be a good choice as it encouraged me to keep the motor running whilst inflating the tyres; the turbo appreciates being run for a while after hard yards in the sand. Be sure to solder it or use automotive splicing connectors.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    4.3 Fuse the Control Circuit
    Notice the ARB wire is a smaller guage than the ignition/accessories wires. This suggests that an inline fuse will be required to protect the circuitry. (See Leachy's excellent posts on the next page for more details). Also, the ARB instructions mention the requirement to find a fused circuit:
    Code:
    NOTE: The desired outlet should supply positive 12V DC, be fused at a minimum of 8amps, and be live only when the vehicle ignition key is in either the "ACC" position or in the "ON" position.
    Consequently, I installed a simple inline 10A fuse as the following pics show:


    5 Fitting the ARB Switch
    The ARB switch is wider than the slot in the Toyota face-plate, so some careful filing was needed. The faceplate is also easily removed by accessing the back of the face-plate from the fuse-box and apply pressure. It will pop out easily enough.

    I used a metal file to slowly remove enough plastic so the switch squeezed in snugly. This was time-consuming!
    • .[/*:m:3o8lo8md]

    I found filing from the back-side of the plate was less-likely going to scratch the front-side. Be careful here!
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    I moved the standard Toyota switches to the top two slots. Unfortunately, the switch-blocks are keyed, so they only fit in one slot. I needed to rekey the top two slots with a cylinderical file to refit the Dimmer and Idle Start switches to the top two slots. The bottom 4 slots are now available for after-market switches.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    The instructions are very clear about which wires to connect to the switch. After that, the face plate was refitted and lookin' good 8).
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    .

    Time for lunch and a beer.

    6 Bolting the Compressor
    With the paint now dry, it was time to go back to bolting in the compressor. I decided to fit some high-density rubber foot-rests. My thinking was three-fold. Firstly, it reduces vibration stress on the thin-walled guard, secondly it isolates the heat from the body and paintwork and thirdly it provides a sound-cushion so sound-waves are not transmitted through the vehicle's body, turning it into one big subwoofer! The down-side is it reduces the penetration of each bolt, so it is much trickier to fit the backing-plate.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    This was very time-consuming, but perserverence and redrilling one of the holes in the backing-plate eventually saw me through.

    Nearly there! All that is needed now is to connect the wiring loom to the compressor and battery, as well as fitting the supplied T-connector and pressure switch, and don't forget the relay. This part is generic and well described in the instructions. Finish the job with split-cable-wrap and use cable-ties to secure the entire wiring loom.

    Last but not least here is the end result. Also notice the yellow dust cap. I spent less then $5 on the dust-cap from Enzed. It is supposed to take high-temperatures, so we'll see how it goes.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    7 Testing
    Flick the switch and listen to the compressor vibrate into action. The pressure switch soon causes it to cut-out. At this point, you will know if you have an air-leak, since the compressor will startup automatically once again. If so, simply redo the threads, perhaps with extra plumbers tape.

    Time to deflate and re-inflate your tyres!

    7.1 Test Illumination of Switch
    First a word on the ARB switch... The ARB toggle switch will clip on in either direction. The switch also has two lamps - one illuminates with the headlights and the other illuminates when the compressor is ON. Depending on which way you orient the switch, will determine which lamp is illuminated. The instructions had no helpful information here.

    I initially set mine up so that the down-position turned the compressor ON. This also means that the large (less than subtle) lamp illuminates when the headlights are ON. I've since flipped the switch so now the small lamp is ON with the headlights. Of course, this also means the UP position is now ON. Oh well, not a big deal. You choose.

    • Compressor on, headlights are off.[list:3o8lo8md]
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    [/*:m:3o8lo8md][*]Compressor off, headlights on.
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    [/*:m:3o8lo8md][*]Compressor On, Headlights On
    • [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    [/*:m:3o8lo8md][/list:u:3o8lo8md]

    7.2 Inflation Test Results
    My method was to inflate the first tyre from 14.5psi to 37.5psi and measure the time. This was my benchmark-time. I then inflated the remaining tyres for that benchmark-time and measured the pressure. If the pressure was still below 37.5psi, I measured the additional time it took to bring the tyre up to 37.5. Hope that makes sense. (Air temperature was 28C).
    1. Tyre 1: 14.5 -> 37.5 : 1 min 55s (benchmark time) [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    2. Tyre 2: 14.5 -> 37.5 : 1 min 55s [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    3. Tyre 3: 14.5 -> 36.5 : 1 min 55s + 4 seconds for 36.5 -> 37.5 [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    4. Tyre 4: 14.5 -> 36.5 : 1 min 55s + 4 seconds for 36.5 -> 37.5 [/*:m:3o8lo8md]
    5. Spare : 14.5 -> 37.5 : 1 min 55s[/*:m:3o8lo8md]


    Very happy with that!

    LFaR.
    [size=1][color=#770000]29Feb12:[/color][color=#777700]12GXLTD Auto, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, WARN 9.5xp Winch, IPF 900XS, Tow, Safari snorkel, Front + Rear Recovery points, ARB OME NC Sports, ATZ-4Rib[/color][color=grey], Silver[/color]. [color=orange][b]MaxTrax[/b][/color], [color=maroon]ScanGuage II[/color], [color=blue]ARB CKMA12[/color], [color=deeppink]UHF: GME TX3440 AE4018K1 UNH047SX[/color], [color=darkgreen]Bushranger Air Jack[/color], [color=green]Staun + ARB Deflators[/color], [color=brown]WindCheetah Roof Rack[/color], [color=green]Foxwing[/color], [color=red]Super Charge MRV70, Redarc BCDC1220[/color], [color=darkblue]ARB 60L fridge[/color], [color=blue]MSA Fridge Dropdown slide[/color], [color=darkyellow]DRIFTA Drawers[/color], [color=gold]TJM Bash Plates[/color], [color=brown]TG150[/color].[/size]

  • #2
    Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

    Mate this would be one of the best how to that I have seen.

    Well done will be referring to this when I do my install 8)
    [color=red]GXL D4D AUTO Option pack more to follow & Camprite TL8s[/color] [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Chuck1/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/46023.png[/img][/url]

    Diabolus fecit, ut id facerem!

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Lfar,
      Top shelf job, well done mate.
      07 Upgrade GXL D4D, Manual, Dune,Sov Bar, BFG's, SG11, Redark dual Batts, Extensive Aux wiring, Stebel, LED stop tails, IPF HID's (my mod), 240V Inv, ARB Comp, GME UHF,TPMS, Safari snorkel, GPS,Hilux washers, 40l Engel in 30% pas pos,homemade A/C cond protection plate, polyairs.

      Comment


      • #4
        Well done Matt, awesome write up and a top job! 8)
        2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
        Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]

        [b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
        [img]http://www.gifs.net/Animation11/Transportation/Cars/4_wheel_drive.gif[/img]

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice thread mate, keep it up. Just one suggestion for those performing electrical work ... Disconnect your battery first!

          I am looking at one of these compressors for when I get my D4D, so I'll definately use it!

          Pete
          [b]2013 GXL LC200 TTV8[/b]
          TJM Alloy Bullbar
          Towing a Jayco Expanda 17.56-2OB

          Comment


          • #6
            Not wanting to pick :? But either you have the switch wired wrong or the wrong lables on the pics? The large illuminated light should be on when the unit is running not off your headlights. Also be careful of the switch there I have put ours in the centre console in front of the shifter. The reason being that with the switches there I was continually knocking them getting in the car I have the same problem in my Lux with the switches.

            Top looking install though its always good to do things yourself.
            [color=#BF0000]Trail Toy - TJ Wrangler with some mods and some bling

            Wifes Daily and Tourer - V6 120 Prado, some mods wife wont give me the keys.[/color]

            Comment


            • #7
              Top job and top write up.
              07 Prado GXL, D4D manual, silver and a fridge with constantly changing beer levels.

              Comment


              • #8
                Great write up, the more i read the more i learn thanks, cheers Jim
                06 TD, RIDE PRO LIFT, DP CHIP, DUAL BATTERIES, HELLA RALLYE 4000'S, ARB BAR, SNORKEL, GME 3440, GOODYEAR MTR'S, & BFG ALL TERRAINS, ARB RACK, 4X4 EQUIP. SHOVEL AND AXE HOLDER. - SOON TO COME F & R DIFF LOCKS, ROCK SLIDERS AND REAR BAR WORK

                Comment


                • #9
                  Nice work LFAR. I wish you had done this write up before my own install last September. Probably would haved saved me a couple of hours mucking around. I like the fact you have rearrranged the switches ready for the addition of lockers. (So have I :wink: ) Great contribution.

                  Cheers - Byrnsie

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the kind words guys. It makes up for the less than kind words I hear at home for spending sooo much time on this forum

                    Originally posted by boof
                    Not wanting to pick :? But either you have the switch wired wrong or the wrong lables on the pics? The large illuminated light should be on when the unit is running not off your headlights. Also be careful of the switch there I have put ours in the centre console in front of the shifter. The reason being that with the switches there I was continually knocking them getting in the car I have the same problem in my Lux with the switches.

                    Top looking install though its always good to do things yourself.
                    Picky, picky, picky

                    By all means, I appreciate the picking . Seriously, if you didn't raise this point, then we'd learn no more.

                    Interestlingly, this crossed my mind also during the install. I felt the main light was just not at all subtle for night-time driving, but then I figured maybe ARB intended it that way .

                    I reconnected the toggle lever with it flipped the other way and it now looks more subtle.

                    My conundrum is that now the switch also works in the opposite direction. i.e. down is off and up is on - it feels like a USA light-switch. I rechecked my connections to ensure they matched the instructions, and they all look sweet. Is this how it is intended to work, i.e. up is on?

                    I'll keep an eye on whether I knock the switch and move it if needed. Thanks for that tip too.

                    Now who else wants to pick??

                    LFaR.
                    [size=1][color=#770000]29Feb12:[/color][color=#777700]12GXLTD Auto, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, WARN 9.5xp Winch, IPF 900XS, Tow, Safari snorkel, Front + Rear Recovery points, ARB OME NC Sports, ATZ-4Rib[/color][color=grey], Silver[/color]. [color=orange][b]MaxTrax[/b][/color], [color=maroon]ScanGuage II[/color], [color=blue]ARB CKMA12[/color], [color=deeppink]UHF: GME TX3440 AE4018K1 UNH047SX[/color], [color=darkgreen]Bushranger Air Jack[/color], [color=green]Staun + ARB Deflators[/color], [color=brown]WindCheetah Roof Rack[/color], [color=green]Foxwing[/color], [color=red]Super Charge MRV70, Redarc BCDC1220[/color], [color=darkblue]ARB 60L fridge[/color], [color=blue]MSA Fridge Dropdown slide[/color], [color=darkyellow]DRIFTA Drawers[/color], [color=gold]TJM Bash Plates[/color], [color=brown]TG150[/color].[/size]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Have a pick..yeah mate ummm... What's the go with the protractor?? Don't tell me you're that much of a perfectionist? haha

                      Re the illumination, mine was installed as per the instructions and yours LFaR. It is bright but I don't see it at all at night. I think I would rather have it that way as if you were in need of your diff locks at night you'll be able to see where the switches are.

                      Also hitting the switches, I'm 6'4 and 4 foot of that is legs! I haven't come close to hitting mine "yet". If I did hit it assume it would only be when getting in and out of the car. No biggie really.
                      2008 GXL M6 D4D, Silver
                      Build Up---> [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=2315[/url]

                      [b]{[/b]ATS Ridepro/Bilstein Lift[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dual Batteries with RanOx Battery Booster[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]600w Projecta 240v Inverter[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Dunlop AT3's / MT MTZ's on Speedy Grande Rims[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Deluxe Winch Bar[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]IPF900XS Spotties - Converted to 50w 4300k HID[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]35w H4-3 4300k HID Hi-Lo Conversion[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]ARB Underbonnet Compressor[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]GME TX3440[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]T-Max 10,000lb winch[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Safari Snorkel[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Milford Cargo Barrier[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]Rhino HD Roofies & AT1410 Roof Tray[b]}[/b] [b]{[/b]60L Waeco[b]}[/b]
                      [img]http://www.gifs.net/Animation11/Transportation/Cars/4_wheel_drive.gif[/img]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I will have to check mine this arve but I think up is on? Either way the smaller light is better when wheeling at night especially as a quick glance tells you which lockers are in (when you fit them ) You will also find the switches get quite hot with just the small light illuminated for long periods so the larger one would just make it worse. At the end of the day what ever you are happy with is the main thing and its still a very good writeup and install either way.

                        And yeh knocking them was only on entering and exiting the vehicle.
                        [color=#BF0000]Trail Toy - TJ Wrangler with some mods and some bling

                        Wifes Daily and Tourer - V6 120 Prado, some mods wife wont give me the keys.[/color]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          May be a silly question but can you give advise on how you pulled the idle up switch and backing plate off everything else i get thanks for the top install tips
                          Dont list all ya mods, you will only be more upset when i get further

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by chester
                            May be a silly question but can you give advise on how you pulled the idle up switch and backing plate off everything else i get thanks for the top install tips
                            Re "silly question"... Aint no such thing

                            These switches and backing plates are held only by clips (as is most of the dash and console). The easiest way to remove this bank of switches is to access it from behind via the fuse-box, which is just below it.

                            Remove the fuse-box cover and reach your hand behind each of the switches. Then apply the right pressure (perhaps with a little wiggling) and it will push out. Same applied to the faceplate.

                            In general, if you want to remove any of the blanks that are not so conveniently located, you only need a small flat-head screwdriver to carefully lever them out. Use your screwdriver on the narrow-ends of the switch, since that is where the clips holds it in place.

                            LFaR.
                            [size=1][color=#770000]29Feb12:[/color][color=#777700]12GXLTD Auto, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, WARN 9.5xp Winch, IPF 900XS, Tow, Safari snorkel, Front + Rear Recovery points, ARB OME NC Sports, ATZ-4Rib[/color][color=grey], Silver[/color]. [color=orange][b]MaxTrax[/b][/color], [color=maroon]ScanGuage II[/color], [color=blue]ARB CKMA12[/color], [color=deeppink]UHF: GME TX3440 AE4018K1 UNH047SX[/color], [color=darkgreen]Bushranger Air Jack[/color], [color=green]Staun + ARB Deflators[/color], [color=brown]WindCheetah Roof Rack[/color], [color=green]Foxwing[/color], [color=red]Super Charge MRV70, Redarc BCDC1220[/color], [color=darkblue]ARB 60L fridge[/color], [color=blue]MSA Fridge Dropdown slide[/color], [color=darkyellow]DRIFTA Drawers[/color], [color=gold]TJM Bash Plates[/color], [color=brown]TG150[/color].[/size]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Crammy
                              Have a pick..yeah mate ummm... What's the go with the protractor?? Don't tell me you're that much of a perfectionist? haha
                              What? You didn't use a protractor?? How could you not???

                              Actually, the protractor is painted onto the el-cheapo workbench. I've never used it... but yeah, now that you mention it, it does look professional

                              LFaR.
                              [size=1][color=#770000]29Feb12:[/color][color=#777700]12GXLTD Auto, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, WARN 9.5xp Winch, IPF 900XS, Tow, Safari snorkel, Front + Rear Recovery points, ARB OME NC Sports, ATZ-4Rib[/color][color=grey], Silver[/color]. [color=orange][b]MaxTrax[/b][/color], [color=maroon]ScanGuage II[/color], [color=blue]ARB CKMA12[/color], [color=deeppink]UHF: GME TX3440 AE4018K1 UNH047SX[/color], [color=darkgreen]Bushranger Air Jack[/color], [color=green]Staun + ARB Deflators[/color], [color=brown]WindCheetah Roof Rack[/color], [color=green]Foxwing[/color], [color=red]Super Charge MRV70, Redarc BCDC1220[/color], [color=darkblue]ARB 60L fridge[/color], [color=blue]MSA Fridge Dropdown slide[/color], [color=darkyellow]DRIFTA Drawers[/color], [color=gold]TJM Bash Plates[/color], [color=brown]TG150[/color].[/size]

                              Comment

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