Glen's 95 series Prado getting broken in

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

That`s a very very good job on both mods!!!!

Glen, what do you think about this:

http://toyteclifts.com/index.php?pag...mart&Itemid=72

Cheers

Thanks MDST!

Bolt on protection is fine if you're not going to actually use them on rocks, haha!! But seriously; I was turned off any bolt on products when I saw this:

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7615

Also consider the stress which would be applied through the bolt/mount... If it's for mild rocks and dirt it's fine, but my rig is often hoping up big rock steps, so I would break them. A welded on slider like I've used will be much stronger, and worth it in the long run.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Thanks John,
I'll check if the welder performed this, otherwise I'll do it myself. I guess it's probably worth doing the entire rig, even though I'm rarely near the coast/salt and always keep the underbody clean.

[Beast2h Member Find all posts View Profile Close Beast2h]

should have maybe looked at longer control arms and moved the whole mount forward to stop some of the "rear steer" at the same time big job but I think it would be worth it! mine rear steers bad under flex!

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

I did ask Lukey about longer arms, etc, but he pointed out how the arm sits almost horizontal, not downards like big lifted Patrols and Cruisers, so it's not worth it. However, if I ever move ahead with my plans for more rear articulation, I think it might be worth considering again.

[Beast2h Member Find all posts View Profile Close Beast2h]

the idea of longer arms is to allow it to move in less of an ark when off roading it wouldn't make any real difference on road but I think it would make a big difference off road

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Broke another CV shaft... and this time properly!!!

Read more about it here:
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...major-recovery!

[samo Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close samo]

We might have to change the tilt of this thread to glens 95 getting broken. Cheers samo

[Beast2h Member Find all posts View Profile Close Beast2h]

Aftermarket or genuine?

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

LOL @ Samo. I often wanted to change the title to something more sensible but it seems I'm living up to it.

Beast,
It was a Repco one but after considering the circumstances I'd expect any shaft to fail. Reversing up very steep, all wheels on solid rock, all the weight pushing down on the front, and mostly to the driver side because I was angled that way... The driver side failed.

[MDST Member Find all posts View Profile Close MDST]

Holy shit!! I've never seen a broken CV shaft like that.

Do you think repco is stronger than toyota? Mmm I don't think so Glen.

You have ARB front locker = A stronger diff. Maybe it`s time to go with RCV cv axles ( very expensive ) je je.

Cheers

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Holy shit!! I've never seen a broken CV shaft like that.

Do you think repco is stronger than toyota? Mmm I don't think so Glen.

You have ARB front locker = A stronger diff. Maybe it`s time to go with RCV cv axles ( very expensive ) je je.

Cheers

Hell yeah, it's a serious break isn't it!!!

I'm not looking into stronger shafts because I don't want to move the "weakest link" to a different part of the drive line. I can always keep a spare CV shaft in the car, but I cannot bring spare transfer cases or diffs, nor afford to have them rebuilt regularly.

[Peterpilot Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Peterpilot]

I would've thought that having the front diff lock engaged would be kinder to the CV by reducing the chance of a free spinning front wheel making sudden contact with the ground.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Gee, that's snapped like a carrot there Glen. You might have try Driveline Services Pty. Ltd. and see what they say about your activities when 4wding. I know it's hard but try developing a style of 4wding where you turn the front diff lock on and off and only use the front diff lock when absolutely necessary. If you are not doing this then give it a shot.
Just a thought, John (##########).

Hey John,

LOL, carrot indeed!

Actually I do try hard not to use the lockers, especially the front, and do switch them off ASAP. It's much more satisfying getting through an obstical slowly with good lines. Of course that's not always possible, so I typically try with rear only, and then the front if it's not possible.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

I would've thought that having the front diff lock engaged would be kinder to the CV by reducing the chance of a free spinning front wheel making sudden contact with the ground.

In uneven terrain (left vs right) you're absolutely correct! Because there's less chance of sudden impacts.

However, in this case all wheels had contact with the ground, there were no impact or sudden movements. The vehicles weight was bearing down on the front axles, and the tyres at 20PSI provided plentiful grip. So whilst the transfer/propshaft/locker would spin, the front tyres didn't want to, and the CV's would have been twisting against the lockers power.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]