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  • Travelling to Cape York with Standard Prado 120

    Hi,

    I have a Toyota Prado 2007 - 120 series, diesel, 3L, motor manual without a lift, winch or bull bar.
    I'm planning to travel to Cape York this year with my “standard” suspension with the four vehicles fleet. Other all vehicles have everything - bull bars, winches and all lifted while I have all terrain tyres, snorkel and two spares and other safety gears such as recovery kit, second battery, driving lamps etc.

    My questions are as follows:
    1. Can we complete OTT with my standard vehicle and has anyone actually done it?
    I'm happy to travel through the “chicken” tracks at the Gunshot and few areas if necessary.
    2. If PP members says that it can be done with no issues, where would I install my recovery points?

    I currently have factory welded towing points only. I did shop around and found a few good recovery points in the market. However, even after the installation of R/Points, how are the cable or ropes going to be aligned in a straight line? (as the bumper edge appears lower than the recovery points)

    3. Do we need to fill both tanks (180 Litres) with diesel or is the main tank alone (90 Litres) is enough? (in to keep the weight of the vehicle minimum) I’m happy to fill the main tank at each filling station for safe practices purposes.

    Thanks for the assistance.
    Regards
    Selvan D4D

  • #2
    1. Don't know, but probably a good idea to install new suspension with a bit of lift. Is the suspension in your 2007 Prado still original?

    2. Ask amts to supply some recovery points for the front. They just bolt on. The factory loops are tie down loops, not recovery points and certainly not strong enough for recovery.

    3. Fill it. You cannot fill one tank, the system balances the fuel in both tanks. 180L gives great range on a standard 120. If you have no bar, winch, etc., there is no issue with weight for the Prado. 2900kg is the max GVM - run it over a weighbridge to check. (Usually your local tip will have a weighbridge and measure it for little to no $)

    Next: What tyres are you running?
    2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]

    Comment


    • #3
      I would even consider throwing a set of heavy duty springs in if you don't want to upgrade your suspension. For the $300 or so it's worth for the springs you could get a 1" lift and much better load handling.

      +1 for AMTS recovery points.

      Don't worry about the extra weight of the fuel as your much better off carrying extra fuel than camping gear you probably don't need haha.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Photoprado and RBJET,

        Thanks for your reply.

        Yes, my springs are original and don't know about it's strength after 10 years of driving. Yesterday I visited local ARB shop and they quoted me coil and shockers for $1450.00 including fitting and wheel alignment. (4/03ONR and 4/03 ONF and sport Struts).

        My Tyre's are BF Goodrich All terrain AT 2 and one year old.

        I'm happy to fill both tank to keep me out of trouble.

        Any one has any better workshop for coils & shockers, please let me know.

        Many Thanks,

        Selvan

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by SelvanD4D View Post
          Hi Photoprado and RBJET,


          Any one has any better workshop for coils & shockers, please let me know.

          Many Thanks,

          Selvan
          Be hard to find a worse one IMHO

          G

          Comment


          • #6
            ARB is always going to be good quality and the price is pretty normal but if you're not wanting to spend the money then you could always buy the springs and have any old suspension place fit them.
            There rear is very easy to fit but the front requires a spring compressor.

            Where abouts in Melbourne are you located?

            Your tyres should be fine.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by SelvanD4D View Post
              Yes, my springs are original and don't know about it's strength after 10 years of driving. Yesterday I visited local ARB shop and they quoted me coil and shockers for $1450.00 including fitting and wheel alignment. (4/03ONR and 4/03 ONF and sport Struts).
              Can't see those springs in the Prado Suspension database: http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...nsion-Database

              Before deciding on springs and shocks, you need to do a bit of analysis and collect some information:

              * What load will you be carrying in the Prado on your trip including the occupants. Roof rack, extra spare wheel, etc. Load it up now and take it to the weighbridge.
              * What height will you want your Prado to be running at. You can run it easily up to 50mm higher than standard. Your original springs will have sagged some so you will see more than 50mm at max.

              Spring height and tension chosen will sit the Prado at the level you need/want. Shocks then need to be specified to give you the best ride and wheel travel, your Prado needs the best wheel travel it can get because it is limited.

              Whitey will be along soon, or send him a message for help.
              2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Selvan,

                After 10 years your OEM twin tube shocks will have run their race. If you drive up the Cape on them you'll run the risk of a rod seal blow out and you'll lose the oil in the shock. No point risking this kind of hassle. If you were driving on brand new OEM suspension, I'd say give it a crack, others have driven 120 Prados up the Cape on factory gear with new vehicles.

                ARB shocks are cheap generic gas charged twin tubes, and they'll struggle with fade in corrugated conditions.

                For that $1450, you can get much better bang for buck shocks.

                I'd give John at Zordos Suspension a call, http://www.zordos4wdsuspension.com.au/, he's up in Brisbane but can send you what you need. For that money you can get some nice monotube Bilsteins. John will have excellent advice for you about the appropriate coil selection for your vehicle weight and the ride height you'd like to achieve. A 2" lift is pretty standard fare on a Prado these days.

                You can also save yourself some fitting costs and do the install at home so you learn how your suspension works and you'll be ready to tackle any problems in the bush. No spring compressors required, see here for an excellent step by step diy install guide;

                http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ade-for-Grande

                Good luck with your suspension and enjoy the Cape!

                Best

                Mark
                2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Whitey View Post

                  ARB shocks are cheap generic gas charged twin tubes, and they'll struggle with fade in corrugated conditions.

                  For that $1450, you can get much better bang for buck shocks.

                  I'm surprised you posted that Mark. How can they be cheap on one hand and then for the same price you can get much better? - they're either cheap or they're not.

                  Considering the number of past posts about Bilsteins failing, Bilsteins leaking, Bilsteins bushes failing, I wonder how many on here would have considered OME shocks cheap generic or unable to cope with corrugations.
                  Cheers
                  Micheal.

                  2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                  2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 120D4D View Post
                    I'm surprised you posted that Mark. How can they be cheap on one hand and then for the same price you can get much better? - they're either cheap or they're not.

                    Considering the number of past posts about Bilsteins failing, Bilsteins leaking, Bilsteins bushes failing, I wonder how many on here would have considered OME shocks cheap generic or unable to cope with corrugations.
                    Hey,

                    There's a pretty simple explanation for that, ARB stuff is over priced. Old Man Emu shocks over heating and fading is a known issue, any 35mm bore gas charged twin tube will do this. Been there done that got the sticker. 35mm bore twin tubes are not fit for purpose on a Prado, particularly the rear.

                    Shocks leaking, bushes failing, they all do that, there isn't a magical shock out there that doesn't. There are more reports of Bilstein failures on Pradopoint because that is the most widely used shock in Prados.

                    A 2" monotube Bilstein will hang in there longer on corrugations compared to a 2" twin tube, no contest.

                    Just because lots of people buy OME shocks doesn't mean they are a decent shock. The 4wd suspension market is split 90:10, 90% of people buy suspension on recommendations, not technical details. For example, there's a 50 page thread on BP-51's on FJCC, full of subjective comments, "it's great", "awesome gear" etc etc., not a single technical detail. Nobody knows the valving, most don't even know the lengths. Most aren't aware of the history of problems they've had, coil bind, lifting too much for the bypass to work and valving dying off, leaking seals, rattling components inside, etc etc etc. ....but apparently "they're awesome".

                    That 50 page thread might be enough to convince people to buy BP-51's anyway, and later on they might regret not having enough travel or crappy valving.

                    Many will go through several iterations of suspension before they're happy.

                    Pradopoint is also about sharing our technical knowledge and our opinions, even if they're subjective. I provide both ends of that spectrum to this forum, and hopefully it presents a more balanced perspective.

                    If you don't like my opinions about 35mm bore gas charged twin tubes, then don't like it, go and buy some and put them on your Prado.

                    In saying that, I'm not against twin tubes. I run big bore 46mm twin tube hydraulics in the rear of my Prado, and I'm very happy with them. 35mm bore stuff is simply too small for side flex on shafts, oil volume and quickly fading.

                    To the original poster, hopefully this hasn't steered too far off course.

                    Suspension is both technical and subjective, and there'll be arguments forever going both ways about who should use what, but at the end of the day you have a budget, and you'll rely on someones opinion if you read this forum.

                    If anyone reading this wants to know more about the technical details and geometrical properties of the Prado suspension, you can follow the links under the Suspension Database here;

                    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...nsion-Database

                    Best

                    Mark
                    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Will you make it in a stock std Prado?

                      I did in my 2 day old 120. Only mods were tyres and a snorkle. The corrugations are horrific (Hence my Username). - let your tyres down and that will help. I went up at 40 psi. 35 made all the difference. Would probably go to 32 next time.

                      10 yr old shocks do need replacing. The cost of a 2" lift will be little more than a straight replacement, and will help you feel much more confident in the tricky spots.

                      I put Bilsteins on at 100,000 km and did the Simpson crossing. They were stuffed at the other side of the desert - leaking oil. They were the recommended spec after I weighed the car on each wheel. I'm running a set of Hot Dogs at the moment and they still are going well after a high country trip, Tassie and several trips to Lidsdale and 60.000 km

                      I am thinking of a set of OME as I was impressed with the ride with Richo Last year. He seemed happy with them.

                      Above all - enjoy the trip. Its great.
                      Greg - 08 D4D Prado,
                      Some trips done - Cape York, Fraser Island, Simpson Desert / Central Aust, Vic High Country.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        25psi is what you want, that's what I set mine at depending the load your carrying.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Did the cape and several other outback adventures in our 120. Have the Bilstein and Kings standard raised combo but less lift in the front than others. Would be 30mm or so in the front and 50+ in the back. Why not 50 in the front - several reasons.
                          1. Less understeer on wet tarmac.
                          2. Less CV wear and vibration.
                          3. Lots of droop.
                          4. Better tyre wear. - over 120000km from 5 tyre BFG AT.

                          We tow a camper on these trips as well and have no fear when it comes to the harder tracks. Laura - Maytown required careful wheel placement.

                          Now my point is yes a standard sprung Prado will make it to Cape and back, but the comfort and confidence you get with spending a bit of cash is worth every cent. We also have found with the Billies and Kings 25psi is the magic point to limit the amount of bump steer in the back. Have used 20 psi for the corrugations on the Mitchell Falls track in 2015.

                          Let your tyres down, slow down and careful wheel placement should see you through most trails. The only obvious issue will be clearance on the sills and front member.

                          Rusty.

                          Edit. I ran the first set of Billies from 40000 to 150000 and whilst not stuffed replaced them with a new set of Billie - now with 265000 and no leaks or fading. I put this down to being mechanically sympathetic and run lower tyre pressures, this takes a lot of stress from the shocks and car. Also the lower front raise has prevented the shocks from topping out.
                          Rusty62
                          Advanced Member
                          Last edited by Rusty62; 17-02-2017, 08:04 PM.
                          08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
                          06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
                          Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thank you all for sharing info.
                            After a few days of shopping around and surfing the net, I'm thinking of lifting my buddy by 2".

                            I'm considering these 4 options:

                            1. Lovell Springs and Dobinson shocks
                            2. King Springs and Dobinson shocks
                            3. Lovell springs and Koni shocks
                            4. King spring anf Gabriel or Manroe shocks


                            I'm a little bit worried about corrugated driving into Cape York and I'm confused with the variety of shocks (Oil - Gas - Foam ...etc...etc)...

                            I just need to ensure that my Cape York adventure is safe and that on my return journey on standard roads, I should feel comfortable.

                            Any recommendations you have to offer?

                            Positive or negative, feel free to let me know...

                            Thanks
                            SelvanD4D
                            Junior Member
                            Last edited by SelvanD4D; 25-02-2017, 11:34 PM. Reason: Typo

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Depends on when you go if its mid season (school holidays) the road will be rubbish so recommend upgrade of suspension components. If its after season i.e early October pre wet they will be gradering the road in sections so not too bad and if you go slow should be ok depending on your load. Two years ago we went up in October and managed between 80-100kph on the development road most of the way..Going out to Weipa was a different story! the road from Bamaga to the tip had been graded and we could do easy 90 kph the whole way so guess we got lucky, the worst section was 30kms prior to the ferry. My 2007 GX D4d had 2 inch Dobinsons the only issue to arise was approx 3500kms later when the top of the shock bolt sheared off, the mechanic in Wigham NSW showed me the shock and the rock damage it had sustained was incredible, but this was also after the Meerini loop road in central australia also so cant speak more highly than of the Dobinsons range. I would upgrade. You got the right tyres for the trip, made it all the way around Australia (60000Ks) on the KOs AT even with a canvas repair plug in one. Got the KO2's now and would feel very confident about the cape with those on and a suspension upgrade.
                              [url]www.wickedphotos.com.au[/url]

                              Comment

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