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Tie rod ends sounds shagged at 82,000km

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  • Tie rod ends sounds shagged at 82,000km

    My left hand side tire rod end sounds shagged. Will pull it apart and check sat or Sunday. Done bugger all km and has stock sized tyres. Anyone else done them at low km ? I'm not completely sure but could also be buggered rackends ??
    matt150
    Avid PP Poster!
    Last edited by matt150; 27-01-2017, 06:00 PM.
    [CENTER][B][U]Matt
    [/U][/B]2012 Silver GXL TD 6 Speed manual with some stuff..
    [/CENTER]
    [CENTER][SIZE=2]My 2008 Lifestyle 360i camper - [URL]http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=21797.0[/URL]
    My 4WD Action write up 2004 120 V6 Prado - [URL]http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/complete-package[/URL][/SIZE][/CENTER]
    [SIZE=2]
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  • #2
    Originally posted by matt150 View Post
    My left hand side tire rod end sounds shagged. Will pull it apart and check sat or Sunday. Done bugger all km and has stock sized tyres. Anyone else done them at low km ? I'm not completely sure but could also be buggered rackends ??
    Hey Matt,

    Doubtful the tie rod has gone, more likely the rack end. Can you feel any movement in the tie rod in the assembled state?

    I've just changed the rack ends in my 120 after 155,000km. I could hear a whopping big metallic clunk when backing up at full lock. It was on my passenger side as well. If you can get the Prado up on a shaker hoist, you'll easily find if there's movement in the ball/cup in the rack end. Just grab the end of the cup through the boot while the shaker is operating, and you'll easily feel the ball move relative to the cup.

    I think the rack ends can go when the uni goes in the lower intermediate steering shaft, at least that's what has happened to me.

    If you do a bit of work off road, that lower uni can get a bit of play in it from water/dust/dirt exposure, and it'll end up rattling the rack ends to death as well.

    You can check for play in that lower uni by grabbing it and resisting the motion while somebody turns the steering wheel from side to side. They can get pretty loose. You'd also feel quite a rattle/shake through the steering wheel while banging over speedbumps etc.

    Hope you find it!

    Best

    Mark
    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by matt150 View Post
      My left hand side tire rod end sounds shagged. Will pull it apart and check sat or Sunday. Done bugger all km and has stock sized tyres. Anyone else done them at low km ? I'm not completely sure but could also be buggered rackends ??
      First check the inner has not just come loose.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Mark. Thinking it's the ends. Found all parts and a tool online, just have explain more more cash too the wife
        [CENTER][B][U]Matt
        [/U][/B]2012 Silver GXL TD 6 Speed manual with some stuff..
        [/CENTER]
        [CENTER][SIZE=2]My 2008 Lifestyle 360i camper - [URL]http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=21797.0[/URL]
        My 4WD Action write up 2004 120 V6 Prado - [URL]http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/complete-package[/URL][/SIZE][/CENTER]
        [SIZE=2]
        [/SIZE][CENTER][SIZE=2]
        [/SIZE][/CENTER]

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
          First check the inner has not just come loose.
          have you seen them come loose before?
          [CENTER][B][U]Matt
          [/U][/B]2012 Silver GXL TD 6 Speed manual with some stuff..
          [/CENTER]
          [CENTER][SIZE=2]My 2008 Lifestyle 360i camper - [URL]http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=21797.0[/URL]
          My 4WD Action write up 2004 120 V6 Prado - [URL]http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/complete-package[/URL][/SIZE][/CENTER]
          [SIZE=2]
          [/SIZE][CENTER][SIZE=2]
          [/SIZE][/CENTER]

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by matt150 View Post
            have you seen them come loose before?
            They do come loose, because there are no lock nuts. I'm told about them by other good technicians.
            Haven't found one yet, but I'm busy doing 1kd-ftv engine stuff like injectors.
            Easy enough to check it out & tighten before you spend up.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
              They do come loose, because there are no lock nuts. I'm told about them by other good technicians.
              Haven't found one yet, but I'm busy doing 1kd-ftv engine stuff like injectors.
              Easy enough to check it out & tighten before you spend up.
              tomorrows job. Complete inspection. Cheers
              [CENTER][B][U]Matt
              [/U][/B]2012 Silver GXL TD 6 Speed manual with some stuff..
              [/CENTER]
              [CENTER][SIZE=2]My 2008 Lifestyle 360i camper - [URL]http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=21797.0[/URL]
              My 4WD Action write up 2004 120 V6 Prado - [URL]http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/complete-package[/URL][/SIZE][/CENTER]
              [SIZE=2]
              [/SIZE][CENTER][SIZE=2]
              [/SIZE][/CENTER]

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              • #8
                I had to replace the drivers side inner one at about 45,000kms - from memory it was making a clunking sound over some bumps (not all). They showed me the old one and it was a bit rusty. Not sure how that happened - I've only been on the beach once and never in salt water.

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                • #9
                  I've replaced my drivers side rack end after a wack off road but still have a rattle in my steering over bumps.
                  Maybe it's time I check my lower uni.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by RBJET View Post
                    I've replaced my drivers side rack end after a wack off road but still have a rattle in my steering over bumps.
                    Maybe it's time I check my lower uni.
                    Hey,

                    Yep it's definitely the most likely cause of the rattle you can feel through the wheel.

                    You can feel the play in it by grabbing the uni in your hand whilst lying underneath and resisting the motion as a helper rocks the steering wheel back and forth a bit. You'll need to grab it tightly to resist the motion, but you will feel if there's any slop in the uni.

                    Best

                    Mark
                    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tie rods or rack ends failing at 45,000, 82,000 and 150,000km is not good. I'd be questioning which starving and desease ridden country Toyota sourced those parts from for your cars. At best your ball joints were fairly well under greased when put together. The rack ends should never work loose because they're locked in place with a lock washer that you fold two ends over on with a hammer to lock the rack end in place. It would take extraordinary forces to break this washer loose. Plus the thread of the rack end should have a bead of red lock tight on it as a back up if the impossible happened. Unless a monkey assembled it for you on a Friday afternoon you should be good there haha.

                      If you can replace them yourself, buy an aftermarket kit of tie rods and rack ends for both sides that have zerk fittings for the tie rods. I'd steer clear of buying the replacement parts from Toyota if this is what you got. Apply more grease to the rack end ball joints when you screw it in place and wriggle the joint around to work the grease into the back of the joint. Pump one pump's worth of grease into the tie rod zerk fitting each time you change your oil. Your steering will be really light and well lubricated. Every 30,000km just pull the large clip/zip tie off the rack end, pull the boot to the side and apply some more grease to the rack end ball joint. Takes 5-6 mins and will keep it in great condition.
                      2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                      • #12
                        Hey Brett,

                        It's not the lock washer coming loose or the cup becoming unthreaded in the rack ends. It's the ball getting worn out and moving in the cup. You'll easily feel this slop by hand on a shaker hoist.

                        You can't buy individual OEM rack ends or tie rods from Toyota, you can only buy the entire steering rack+ends for around $1700.

                        I've replaced my rack ends with 555 Japanese made versions for $70.

                        I re-packed grease into my OEM tie rods when I put it all back together.

                        The rack end ball/cup assembly gets worked out pretty hard when you throw big heavy off road tires onto the Prado and when you do a lot of off road work. It's just the facts of life with IFS, it isn't that strong and is high maintenance.

                        Best

                        Mark
                        2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yes that's correct when they're worn the ball joint will pop in out when loose and also when you give the wheel a wriggle when the front end is lifted up. I was collectively commenting on a few other messages in my msg that's all. Another tell tale sign is wheel screeching when turning sharp corners like when turning into a shopping centre car park.

                          Those low kilometres for failure is still sh*t house but. I'm running bigger tyres too, do a lot of off-roading and have driven thousands of kilometres of corrugated roads and mine have lasted wayyyy longer than that. I'd be pretty annoyed if mine clapped out that early because they shouldn't.
                          2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by matt150 View Post
                            Thanks Mark. Thinking it's the ends. Found all parts and a tool online, just have explain more more cash too the wife

                            Be careful of what aftermarket replacements you source online for these.
                            My money would be on 555 Brand replacements.

                            Regards, Jay.
                            [COLOR="#0000CD"]Jason formerly of Wholesale[/COLOR]
                            Prado Lover Extraordinaire

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