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AmazonRacer06 2006 Prado 120 V6 TX limited Build

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  • AmazonRacer06 2006 Prado 120 V6 TX limited Build

    First post ever, so bare with me. I bought this right hand drive TX limited Japan import a while ago at 73.000km. It was a rare gem, never gone off road and in incredible state. My previous car was a 1998 Prado RZ V6 three door, but with the expansion of the family I had the excuse of up sizing. My aim is to build a tourer that can bring us in reasonable comfort through South America, and straight through the Amazon rainforest where we live, in good times and bad (wet season).

    Apart from some interior work, the only upgrades that came with the vehicle were a high flow muffler and cat installed in Japan. First upgrade I did was new tires. I bought Mickey Thompson's ATZ p3 from the US at size 265/70R17. I bought them to be able to deal with the very sticky Amazon mud that we have here, but maintain great ride quality over long distances on the Tarmac and the city driving that I still do with this car. All my previous AT tires have damaged quickly with smaller and bigger chips on the threat and tears in the side walls. The MT's are heavy as hell and do make much more noise than any AT tire I have had before. All acceptable and in combination with a second alignment and the new rims with lower offset I actually find the ride quality improved over the original. Less squirming whilst cornering at speed, more planted feel to it and less dancing left to right. I do notice that it generally runs at slightly lower RPMs for a given speed, but also that more gas pedal input and RPMs are required under acceleration. I should say that my optimism is definitely influenced by my expectations of worse ride quality than standard. Also, I haven't been able to say much about the fuel consumption, which matters to me.

    Second upgrade was new rims to make the car unique over stock and increase the track width, giving more stability to the car and avoid rubbing the UCA, etc. My search for new rims was focused on rims for FJ Cruisers and 4Runners, since we are closest to the US for import. I bought the TRD Pro 17x7.0inch offset ET4 rims that were first displayed on a heavily modded FJ Cruiser displayed during the 2014 SEMA show. They are now available OE at Toyota US for the FJ Cruiser and 4Runner. For FJ Cruisers and 4runners the wider offset seems just right and I took the gamble for my Prado. Their 7.0 inch width gets strongly debated since many consider this too small for their oversized tires. The Mickey Thompson's fit well over them so I only see the advantages. And in my view, they look great.

    This is how the rig looks like today. I'm sure you all think it deserves a lift urgently:
    https://s26.postimg.org/xltbek3op/20170121_121121.jpg
    and
    https://s26.postimg.org/sbocn9jft/20170121_121412.jpg

    A reminder of how the car looked like when bought during a trip into the rainforest and savannahs of the Guianas:
    https://s26.postimg.org/flopnx0vd/Su0030.jpg

    Upcoming plans are dual batteries, a roof rack, roof tent and new suspension with between 1.5 and 2 inch lift. On board air compressor and snorkel are on the list. Wish list also includes side bars, (aluminum) bull bar and underside protection.
    AmazonRacer06
    Lurker
    Last edited by AmazonRacer06; 23-01-2017, 02:19 PM.

  • #2
    Wheel and tyre combo looks awesome mate.
    I noticed a difference of about 2L/100km going from factory sized Bridgestones to 265/70/17 ATZ p3's.
    That's in a diesel but I'd assume petrol would be similar.

    Comment


    • #3
      Increasing the space in the front wheel wells for new rims and tires

      The MT ATZ P3 are quite oversized and at the larger end of the 265/70R17 size. I believe they are truly 32inch and very square with large threat blocks on the side. I considered that they would rub without going for a lift from the start. What I didn't realize is that the size of the tires was less of an issue than the wider offset of the new rims. At ET04, the outer rim pokes out 19.7mm more and the total wheel track has widened 52mm (I am still a noob at these things, so correct me if I am wrong). After the first alignment the wheels rubbed at more or less full turn in the front wheel wells left front, left back, right front and right back. I haven't done an extensive search on this at Pradopoint, but I found much helpful information in various 4Runner forums. This is probably because most Prado owners that increase the width of the rims do not maintain the original bumper and thus do not have this issue. The 4runner of the same series (4th gen) is in many ways the same car. The Prado has never been available in the US.

      The trick is to start with moving the front of the inner fender liner to a new location, to the front as much as possible. This proved very easy. I had to undo two screws that secure the fender liner to the lower edge of the front bumper (https://postimg.org/image/uix6oxe3p/) and the plastic mounts that come with the screws. I cut one piece of the plastic mount (https://postimg.org/image/hssybu65h/) so that it can move freely to the new location, the other outer screw and plastic I reattached to the original hole but without connecting it to the fender liner. I pushed the fender liner all the way to the front and down to (barely) reach the lower edge of the front bumper. Simply push the screw through the liner in the new position and reattach the plastic mount in the same way it came. Tightening the screw helps pull down on the liner (https://postimg.org/image/ezzqrt5t1/). This quick and easy fender liner mod ensures several centimeters/inches of additional clearance at the front of the front wheel wells (https://postimg.org/image/4efvfszhh/ vs https://postimg.org/image/7mkcsulr9/).

      Unfortunately, this was not enough for me, since the tires continued to rub when driving hard in reverse over a bump (could happen in the field). The rubbing was on the lower part of the front bumper itself, where the fender liner has been moved forward. I cut through the front bumper at the right place with a pocket knife which went very easy and left a smooth cut (https://postimg.org/image/lua1hhyg5/). I was done within the minute. Also, the result does not look bad and I believe can be restored without raising an eyebrow when reselling the car.

      After having fixed the front rubbing in the front wheel wells, it appeared that also the rear mud flaps in the front wheel wells gave rubbing at full steering lock in reverse. The issue was that their was a lot of play in the mud flaps. I cut a small hole at the right place in the mud flap and pushed a rib tie through the hole. On the other side, the rib tie can be nicely wrapped around the steel support beam where the true fanatics with 35inch wheels have to cut through the beam itself (https://postimg.org/image/6a2nqyobp/). This has added much clearance for me and does not look bad, certainly not if I would have used a black tie rib (https://postimg.org/image/cp1onmv1h/).

      With the current rims and tires, I don't think I will ever have rubbing issues anymore, with plenty of room for my tires to do their thing when full of mud. Now I have been able to acquire an alignment within recommended specs.

      This post might be a bit rubbish and difficult to follow. I hope it makes sense when you are under your car.
      AmazonRacer06
      Lurker
      Last edited by AmazonRacer06; 23-01-2017, 02:30 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by RBJET View Post
        Wheel and tyre combo looks awesome mate.
        I noticed a difference of about 2L/100km going from factory sized Bridgestones to 265/70/17 ATZ p3's.
        That's in a diesel but I'd assume petrol would be similar.
        Thanks RBJET! A 2L/100km loss would make me very happy. Did you have rubbing issues like I had before creating more space in the front wheel wells?

        Comment


        • #5
          Nah I haven't had any rubbing issues at all with a 2" lift.

          Comment


          • #6
            That's something that continues to puzzle me. If I am having rubbing when level, shouldn't you be having rubbing under the same circumstances but with 2 inch compression through your front suspension? Either these circumstances never happen in practice, or our offset is different enough for you to avoid rubbing. Or there is something else I should learn about our setups. I do understand that the geometry changes when lifting, but can't relate that to avoiding any rubbing under compression.
            AmazonRacer06
            Lurker
            Last edited by AmazonRacer06; 23-01-2017, 01:21 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              P4 pushes the wheels 26mm further out so the radius that the outer edge of the tyre describes is bigger. Seems that is enough to catch on full lock. In Oz we are limited to increasing the track by 25mm or half what you have done. I guess that's why no one has noticed this. Perhaps a lift will give enough space.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks MJRandom! So no spidertracks and limited options for aftermarket rims for you. But then again, you live in Oz. Offroad heaven. A lift will certainly help when level, but I assume would continue to give the same issues under compression of the front suspension.

                Comment


                • #9
                  It all depends on what you fit but possibly. If it is the plastic inner can you heat It and bend it out of the way?
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I solved all issues on rubbing by moving the inner fender liner forward and re-securing, cutting away a small triangle of the lower end of the front bumper and adding a tie rib to the front mud flap (to the back of the front wheel). This resulted in an estimated 4inch increase in wheel well clearance, most relevant during full steering lock. I do not have any issues anymore and have also been able to increase caster back to recommended specs during a second alignment. Very happy with the result, although putting a knife in my Prado that I so proudly own required some bravery. All can be converted back to stock without much visible impact.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Good work!so hi much lift is coming?
                      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Was thinking 1.5 to 2.0 inch lift with plenty of downward travel. Here we have access to brands such as Icon, Kings and Fox, although at a premium price compared to OME. Looking for front adjustable (in height) coil overs in LT version in combination with aftermarket UCA. For rear coils the ToyTech Superflex rcc2.0 look very appealing in combination with some reasonably long rear travel shocks. They are 16 5/8 inch free length and are rated softly at around 200 lbs/inch. I expect this to give close to 2.0inch lift from new when loaded with some gear. I haven't found a rear coil around 16-16.5 inch free length with higher spring rate (220-250 lbs/inch range). For the whole upgrade package, I will have to dive deep in the pocket. It does reflect on the challenges of our terrain in combination with our desire to maintain the best ride quality we can when touring different conditions. The difference in conditions between dry and wet season are night and day here in the Amazon. We are not planning on very heavy out-rigging like many of you. I am considering skipping over the steel heavy front bumper, leaving it as is or look for a lighter aluminum option. That means avoiding driving at speeds at night. Most wildlife here is either small or too shy to allow to be run over during the day.
                        AmazonRacer06
                        Lurker
                        Last edited by AmazonRacer06; 24-01-2017, 07:09 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          After about 1.5 years of absorbing information on Pradopoint, but also other forums for 4runners and FJ Cruisers, it's time to pay back and update my build threat. I'll start by sharing a 8000+km review of the new tires and wheel combination. Of these km's, more than 1.500km was offroad, sometimes under challenging conditions, so I guess I am doing ok on the offroad/mall cruising ratio.

                          1.5 years ago, I installed Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 tires one size up at 265/70r17. They have an increased diameter of 32inch, are E rated and much heavier than stock, probably than almost anything else in AT tires of this size. At the same time, I mounted them on 17x7.0inch TRD Pro FJ Cruiser rims with ET4 offset, first introduced in the US during a SEMA car show.

                          This quick review is a comparison with stock wheels and rims (worn) and should therefor take into account the following changes compared to stock: a) new tires with a more aggressive tire pattern, b) greater roll resistance and more unsprung weight due to increased weight, c) larger diameter of the tire, d) the wider stance.

                          First of all, the tire and wheel combination attract a lot of attention. I get offers from people that want to buy my car or just the wheels on a weekly basis, even though the Prado is not an uncommon vehicle where I live. The stance looks great and make stock Prado's look skinny. On the streets the first thing I noticed was the combined effect of the increased weight and diameter. Increasing or decreasing acceleration is noticeably a little harder. Also, interestingly, you need less RPM's for the same speed. With the v6 I can often tour around in town hovering just above 900rpm. This probably negates some of the increases in fuel consumption, because I did not see any big increase overall. The difference with stock consumption is highest in start stop situations. There it went from around 6.6km/l to 6.2km/l. Out of town, I can't tell exactly but no records where broken on fuel consumption compared to before the tire and wheel upgrade. The tires are a small bit louder due to the aggressive pattern and side blocks. My wife did not notice the difference. I do believe this is partly due to excellent sound proofing of the Prado. 7000km later, I think the road noise is increasing, especially with the windows open. You can still have a quite conversation inside. In corners, I find the Prado to behave more stable (but still with a lot of lean) and have the impression that more of the side to side motion gets translated to up and down motion dampened by the shocks. You can turn in hard and fast, resulting in a lot of lean, but the tires will always keep up, I can power down during a turn without the tires holding me back. This gives a lot of confidence, also noticed by my wife. The traction on asphalt is good, both in the dry and the wet. I recently needed to make an emergency stop braking from 130km/h to 80km/h with the ABS working in sync with the tires seeking for grip. All in a straight line as well. One piece of caution, with these tires you can never drive one handed in the rain over puddles of water, because the jerking effect on the steering wheel can be concerning. I guess these are not great on aqua planning. Off road, these tires are something else. The traction these tires give is incredible under all kind of circumstances. I have pulled out of some very sticky mud a Ford Ranger with stock AT tires and a Nissan Frontier with MT tires, both at places where I had no trouble at all. Both drivers had difficulties accepting they were recovered by an almost stock Prado. When not offroading, I keep the tire pressure high at around 40-44psi. This is for fuel consumption. Often, I don't feel like airing down when doing offroading, knowing that I will have enough grip anyway. When airing down, that's when the almost MT qualities of the tires do come out. The mud clearing effect of the tires works. Something I notice is that these tires deflect much less on bumps so the ride feels a bit harsher compared to stock, even when aired down. I have never had any puncture with these tires, whereas on my former P-rated AT tires I had punctures at least every three months. I have little experience to compare with, but can definitely recommend this combination.
                          AmazonRacer06
                          Lurker
                          Last edited by AmazonRacer06; 07-05-2018, 07:57 AM.

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                          • #14
                            This is how the almost stock Prado looks like with the new rubber and rims.

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                            • #15
                              I have installed a new head unit with front and rear camera. I choose a Pioneer 4200 NEX with pioneer rear camera that came in the package. For the front camera a mounted a Chinese aftermarket camera with two LEDs. I installed two switches in an unused location that can turn the cameras fully off. This was a fun project to do and thought me some of the basics of the electronical system, crimping, etc. Also, I found that the previous owner had done a messy install so I rebuild the stock wiring.

                              The Pioneer 4200 NEX is great and has brought the Prado into the new digital world. It has a detachable front, so you can leave your car in remote places with greater ease. It has a function to display the front and rear camera whenever you want. It had android auto (and the apple counterpart) giving me voice controlled music services, text messaging, whatsapp, etc.

                              It gives me navigation in one of the countries in the world (Suriname) least likely to ever offer this officially. According to all information, android auto only works in few selected countries. I found that as long as you can make it work on your phone, you can make it work on your head unit. For this you need to fool the location of your phone through VPN. Also, updating the head unit is more complex.

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