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  • Rotors / discs warp

    Hi all,

    Had new all-terrain tyres fitted to my 2000 md prado- petrol ( 210,000 k) about 250klm back. Noticed slight Wobble in steering wheel at 105-110 klm hr. Took car back and got them to check front wheel balance which they did while i waited. Took test run down the highway and wobble still there. At this point i must mention that the vehicle steering also has wobble when breaking at low klm/hr. Mechanic rang around and found that the Rotors probably have a slight Warp in them. He said its a trait in Prado's.
    Thinking back i think the prado had steering wheel 'wobble pre- new tyres. Just more noticeable now.
    My question to all this, has anyone else had this problem with rotors warp and is it a trait in

    Prado's ?

    Cheers all.
    angrymouse
    Lurker
    Last edited by angrymouse; 23-01-2017, 07:06 AM. Reason: grammer

  • #2
    Change them to DBA T2s, and do a full fluid flush,

    Comment


    • #3
      I've had an annoying noise from my rear, so had them machined ($30 for the pair) and changed pads, only for noise to return when braking a couple of weeks later... Doh....
      Looked on ebay and bought new slotted and dimpled rotors for around $150 for the rear pair, as when i had them machined, they were down to the minimum thickness.
      Just need new pads now and to fit the new rotors, and hopefully no more noise then.

      Ie Machining is cheap( shop around), try that first i'd suggest if the have enough meat on them still, else not much to replace them, unless you buy genuine i guess. The front are far easier to change out that the rear.
      CoreyTroy
      Member
      Last edited by CoreyTroy; 23-01-2017, 09:00 AM.
      1999 Prado VX Grande White on Silver 3.4Ltr Auto

      Comment


      • #4
        It could be as simple as the wheels nuts have been over torqued. I had this issue and found just loosening the nuts resolved the issue.
        2018 150 Series Crystal Pearl Prado VX 2.8l. 2 inch King springs and Bilstein shocks, Airtek TJM snorkel.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by cuda View Post
          It could be as simple as the wheels nuts have been over torqued. I had this issue and found just loosening the nuts resolved the issue.
          +1 See this all the time. Some mechanics and almost all tyre fitters are in need of some education..
          Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks guys,
            Mechanic said in some cases machining discs are difficult if whole rotor is warped. Better to go new discs straight up. But will take in the full fluid flush also & new pads

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by cuda View Post
              It could be as simple as the wheels nuts have been over torqued. I had this issue and found just loosening the nuts resolved the issue.
              +1 for this too. I'm glad I own a torque wrench. Every time I get a wheel alignment I have to back the wheel nuts off at home and re-torque them correctly to 113nm as the young enthusiastic fellas at the tyre places can do them up rediculously tight.
              2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

              Comment


              • #8
                As a side note, assuming it's not a nut torque issue, disc warping is usually caused by hard braking followed by leaving the foot on the brake when stopped. This causes the heat to be trapped in the rotor in the area in contact with the brake pads while the other parts of the rotor cools down. Where possible, take your foot off the brake pedal after long hard stops.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by amts View Post
                  As a side note, assuming it's not a nut torque issue, disc warping is usually caused by hard braking followed by leaving the foot on the brake when stopped. This causes the heat to be trapped in the rotor in the area in contact with the brake pads while the other parts of the rotor cools down. Where possible, take your foot off the brake pedal after long hard stops.
                  And hitting water with hot discs
                  1999 Prado VX Grande White on Silver 3.4Ltr Auto

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Taken all in. Will check nuts with torque wrench. Got bendex rotors + pads coming at mechanics servo this week. Will check back in after nuts re-torqued and test driven.
                    cheers.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi,
                      All fixed. No more wobble at 100-110 k, or shudder when stopping. New Bendex rotors & pads to front( $160* ). New brake oil. Plus labour*.
                      Tried re- torquing front nuts first as was suggested, wobble at 100+ possibly not as bad, though brake shudder was still there.
                      Thanks for input.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by angrymouse View Post
                        Thanks guys,
                        Mechanic said in some cases machining discs are difficult if whole rotor is warped. Better to go new discs straight up. But will take in the full fluid flush also & new pads


                        Got my rotors replaced this week. The mechanic told me that the 90 Series Prado rotors can't be machined except on the car. He also tells me the on-car machining is crap and he won't use it; so in essence the message is if your rotors get warped then replace them. I got a decent RDA pair of fronts for $105 delivered off an on-line parts shop.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by RobboMC View Post
                          Got my rotors replaced this week. The mechanic told me that the 90 Series Prado rotors can't be machined except on the car. He also tells me the on-car machining is crap and he won't use it; so in essence the message is if your rotors get warped then replace them. I got a decent RDA pair of fronts for $105 delivered off an on-line parts shop.
                          I had my rotors machined off the car after a caliper didn't release and the brake pad wore a slot in the rotor, and they are fine now. So I don't know what he was talking about.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by amts View Post
                            As a side note, assuming it's not a nut torque issue, disc warping is usually caused by hard braking followed by leaving the foot on the brake when stopped. This causes the heat to be trapped in the rotor in the area in contact with the brake pads while the other parts of the rotor cools down. Where possible, take your foot off the brake pedal after long hard stops.
                            You're absolutely correct with this. This is the reason why you should bed in new brakes and not come to a complete stop the first few times at least with the brakes still applied when braking because new pads get really hot.
                            2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by amts View Post
                              As a side note, assuming it's not a nut torque issue, disc warping is usually caused by hard braking followed by leaving the foot on the brake when stopped. This causes the heat to be trapped in the rotor in the area in contact with the brake pads while the other parts of the rotor cools down. Where possible, take your foot off the brake pedal after long hard stops.
                              I've got vivid memories of the Lamborghini race car from one of our teams coming into a time control point on one of the Targa races one day and the brakes catching fire because the time control official wouldn't let it keep edging slowly forward to stop 1: warping 2: said fire.. Funny how they all wanted to run away when the brakes went up in flames..

                              Comment

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