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  • Using KERO to Flush Engine...???

    OK, so hopefully this may attract someone's attention?

    It was suggested to me by a qualified mechanic that I use a quantity of KERO into the engine oil before doing the oil change.

    Has anyone ever done this or heard of this before?

    Cheers
    Stan Miko

    - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

  • #2
    Originally posted by stanmiko View Post
    OK, so hopefully this may attract someone's attention?

    It was suggested to me by a qualified mechanic that I use a quantity of KERO into the engine oil before doing the oil change.

    Has anyone ever done this or heard of this before?

    Cheers
    When I was at trade school, they drained oil, filled engine with the 5 lt of kero, idle for 20 minutes & dumped it.
    Worked well.
    Back then,,Personally I changed my oil every Friday arvo after the work was done :-) clean as! Lol.....

    Comment


    • #3
      I'll bet the mechanic is 106 years old.
      Dave
      Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
      Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

      Comment


      • #4
        I've also heard of folk using 250-500mls of diesel fuel to flush the oil.
        Personally I just do more regular oil changes.
        SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

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        • #5
          Kero is going to do a great job providing clearance in the big end journal, cams and other bearings while the engine is running....NOT!

          Is this a serious post?
          [B]Steve[/B]

          2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

          Comment


          • #6
            I would Seriously doubt that the Kero would work while the engine is running, maybe let it soak with the engine off.
            The Kero would wash out all the oil from the bearings and if you were very unlucky it could cause a "Run Away" situation when shutting the engine down....

            You could probably dilute the old engine oil with a little bit of Kero like an engine flush, but I wouldn't go over board....

            Comment


            • #7
              The kinematic viscosity of kerosene at 20C is 2.71 cSt (centistokes). A typical 15W40 at the same temperature (where the multigrade behaves like the lighter oil in the specification) is around 300cSt. As temperature rises the viscosity drops (yes we all know that) and for that same multigrade it is still higher viscosity at 150C than the kerosene at 20C. Long after the oil is happy.

              There have been a few studies looking at the effect of mixing different oils with different viscosities and the results appear to be unpredictable. Mix a 10W30 with a 10W40 to try and get 10W35 and the oil tends to thin below 10 cold and 30 hot.

              If this was a serious post - find a new mechanic...

              ...unless the 'quantity' was 0mL

              Want to flush then use a dedicated engine flush. Just not too often.
              mjrandom
              Out of control poster!
              Last edited by mjrandom; 23-01-2017, 01:10 PM.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Bushbasher View Post
                I'll bet the mechanic is 106 years old.
                Bout 86 :-)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                  The kinematic viscosity of kerosene at 20C is 2.71 cSt (centistokes). A typical 15W40 at the same temperature (where the multigrade behaves like the lighter oil in the specification) is around 300cSt. As temperature rises the viscosity drops (yes we all know that) and for that same multigrade it is still higher viscosity at 150C than the kerosene at 20C. Long after the oil is happy.

                  There have been a few studies looking at the effect of mixing different oils with different viscosities and the results appear to be unpredictable. Mix a 10W30 with a 10W40 to try and get 10W35 and the oil tends to thin below 10 cold and 30 hot.

                  If this was a serious post - find a new mechanic...

                  ...unless the 'quantity' was 0mL

                  Want to flush then use a dedicated engine flush. Just not too often.
                  Thanks for the science, well put.

                  A few years ago I worked for a big company where we spent a huge amount of money doing oil sampling etc to find the optimal oil change frequency on big diesel engines. End result was that changing oil too often does more harm than good, big eye opener for me.

                  Oil is like the blood of a machine and there is a lot of science to how it does it's job. Blindly trying to keep the insides of an engine pristine may give you some unintended results. But I have also learnt that science and facts aren't enough to convince some people.
                  [B]Steve[/B]

                  2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Probably runs one of Brocky's magical crystals too.
                    Dave
                    Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                    Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It was a serious post.

                      Not talking about draining old oil and filling with Kero, but adding, say, 500mL of Kero to a warm engine and running it for 5 -10 mins before dumping it for a routine change.

                      The theory behind it is why spend $20 on a bottle of Brand name Engine Flush when all it is is predominantly Kerosene based?
                      Stan Miko

                      - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by stanmiko View Post
                        It was a serious post.

                        Not talking about draining old oil and filling with Kero, but adding, say, 500mL of Kero to a warm engine and running it for 5 -10 mins before dumping it for a routine change.

                        The theory behind it is why spend $20 on a bottle of Brand name Engine Flush when all it is is predominantly Kerosene based?
                        Right, so if a full oil/kero replacement was ok, I think 500ml won't hurt.
                        But regular oil changes is all that is required if you Pcv is Working.

                        Comment

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