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  • Front brake upgrade

    Has anybody found it necessary to upgrade their brakes or have actually done so?

  • #2
    Quite a few (me included when I had a 120) fitted slotted rotors and better pads and noticed a significant improvement. There are threads about it. Have a google pradopoint+dba for example.

    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...tors-with-pics
    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...d-Rotor-Change
    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ed-vs-Standard
    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...275-DBA-Rotors
    And this...
    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...WD-Disc-Rotors

    There are some others too.
    mjrandom
    Out of control poster!
    Last edited by mjrandom; 02-01-2017, 09:45 PM.
    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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    • #3
      Thanks mjrandom ����

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      • #4
        The Prado brakes are actually pretty damn good for standard units. If you know how to use your gearbox and engine braking, then overheating shouldn't be a problem. Emergency braking is better than you'd expect - you can ask many a kangaroo that I've avoided!

        Quick win to fix brakes is braided lines (much better pedal feel) and better pads. Better pads come with draw backs like cold temp performance and more dust...
        2016 Crystal Pearl Auto VX 2.8, TJM Bar, Safari Snorkel, Cooper AT/3, OME 50mm lift, Dual batts

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        • #5
          I've recently upgraded to the DBA 42700S slotted series 4000 along with Bendix 4wd pads, much better than the original ones but i'd love to have a set of Brembo's like my F6 on it any day.

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          • #6
            With the larger (and heavier) AT tyres with standard Prado brakes, we rarely had any brake modulation due to locking the wheels under heavy braking.

            Since then, we have added T3's on front and T2's on the rear with Bendix pads. We definitely have much stronger braking when required. Just ask the flock of emus we came across over a hump in the Flinders. We and they were lucky, and I sincerely doubt we would have missed them with the standard brakes. Probably would have taken several out.
            2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]

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            • #7
              I've fitted RDA slotted and pimpled rotors front and rear.

              Made a massive difference especially when towing
              11/06 kdj120 gx wide body auto

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              • #8
                I descend the Toowoomba range everyday when going home from work. I shift the auto into 2nd and have to feather the brakes for a good portion of the way down to keep at 60km/h or to keep my distance from slow cars in front or trucks that switch lanes in front of you at the last second. When I ran standard RDA rotors I was eventually warping them one set after another. I then switched to RDA slotted and dimpled rotors and the warping issue stopped. They also pull the car up well when towards the bottom of the range even when the brakes have been worked a bit on the way down. I can vouch for them 110% and I won't put anything else on the car. Because of the massive down hill I drive 5 days a week I take extra special care & attention when bleeding the system and filling with new brake fluid. Because my brakes get a workout on a daily basis I can't just gravity bleed the system every 2 years. I have to pump the pedal repeatedly to eject some of the floaties that form within the brake line to get it nice and clear again. My Bendix brakes last me about 50,000km (2 years) per pair. The fronts usually get replaced one year and the rears the following year sort of thing.
                Brett1979
                Avid PP Poster!
                Last edited by Brett1979; 07-01-2017, 11:07 PM.
                2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                • #9
                  I have only ever stabbed the brakes firmly to wash off heaps of pace then roll for a some time in low gear until I am doing over the speed limit and then stab them again firmly.

                  This means brakes are only applied briefly 2-3 times and are cool as a cucumber. Also good for getting rid of tailgaters.

                  Similar pattern to race cars, feathering the break is useless and glazes the pads and overheats them by the time you get to the bottom.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  [CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
                  [/CENTER]

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                  • #10
                    Um, have you driven the Toowoomba range? Since the upgrade? The gradient is 10%. Plus you've got a diesel which holds its speed better than a petrol going down a hill.
                    I'd be stabbing the brakes 6 or 7 times or more and I'm not doing that with drivers behind me, plus it's full of tail gaters who want to do 65-70 and I'm not keen on copping abuse or getting high beamed frequently by giving the impression that I did it for fob off the driver behind me. Some drivers get irate & take it personally if you do that to them
                    In this day and age of stressed out people with zero tolerance that'd be asking for trouble one day and I wouldn't consider a punch to the face on the way home from work as part of the experience haha. I get tail gated enough as it is going down there because I do the speed limit. Ive been booked for being 10km over twice on that range and I won't go a kilometre over anymore as its sometimes got a motorbike cop radarring on it. Plus it'd give the impression that I don't know how to drive.

                    The brake doesn't get feathered in race cars because you lose way too much time during a lap because you're not driving the car as hard as it can be driven. Brake preservation is not high on the priority list in a race. Don't you drive hard toward the bend, hit the brake hard at the last minute just before you turn into it and then accelerate hard out of the rest of the bend to maximise your speed through the bend, not to keep your brakes cool.
                    In racing a car is treated completely the opposite to how you'd drive a car on a normal road.
                    If I stabbed my brakes hard every time I needed to slow down or come to a complete stop instead of being more gentle on them I'd go through brake pads every 20,000km haha.
                    Brett1979
                    Avid PP Poster!
                    Last edited by Brett1979; 08-01-2017, 08:33 PM.
                    2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                    • #11
                      Fitted Bendix 4WD pads front and rear and the thing can stop on a 10c piece.
                      Stan Miko

                      - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

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                      • #12
                        On this topic.

                        I recently have changed all 4 rotors (new Protec standards), Bendix 4wd pads, brake fluid flush with dot4. I would say the brakes are good, but not excellent. Especially when towing.

                        Driving Dads 150 (only has 10,000 on the clock though), that thing will stop with the Camper fully loaded on a dime. I know this is really not a comparision to our 120, but I would have thought it would be a lot better.

                        So, if I was to upgrade to these slotted T3s ($$$) will it make a big improvement, or just a little? The brakes on ours are to the point if a Estop is required, it will be close to hitting it. Running the bigger Coopers on it too which probably doesn't help?

                        Would it be better to get some braided lines instead first? The 2.5"ish lift in the back could do with a longer brake hose anyway.
                        [B][2007 GXL 120 3.0L D4[COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR] Auto][/B] [I]Mods:[/I] [COLOR="#DAA520"]Bilstein [/COLOR][COLOR="#0000FF"]Shocks [/COLOR]& [COLOR="#DAA520"]King [/COLOR]2" Lift Springs - 265/70/17 [COLOR="#3366ff"]Cooper [/COLOR]AT/3s Tyres - [COLOR="#FF0000"]ARB [/COLOR]Deluxe bullbar - LED Spotlights & Worklights - Snorkel - [COLOR="#008000"]BushSkinz [/COLOR]bash plates - 2.2m Alloy Overlander Full Rack - 2.5m [COLOR="#8B4513"]Wanderer [/COLOR]Awning - [COLOR="#FF0000"]GME [/COLOR]TX3120S UHF & [COLOR="#FF0000"]GME [/COLOR]AE4703 6.6dBi - [COLOR="#FF8C00"]Milford [/COLOR]Cargo Barrier - [COLOR="#FF0000"]JVC [/COLOR]indash DVD - [COLOR="#FF8C00"]Maxtrax [/COLOR]- Pulling a heavily modified [COLOR="#3366ff"]Jayco [/COLOR]Dove Pop Top Camper

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                        • #13
                          Isnt Dot4 fluid bad juju in a Toyota?
                          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                            Isnt Dot4 fluid bad juju in a Toyota?
                            News to me. As far as I know Dot4 can be used in Dot3 applications.
                            [B][2007 GXL 120 3.0L D4[COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR] Auto][/B] [I]Mods:[/I] [COLOR="#DAA520"]Bilstein [/COLOR][COLOR="#0000FF"]Shocks [/COLOR]& [COLOR="#DAA520"]King [/COLOR]2" Lift Springs - 265/70/17 [COLOR="#3366ff"]Cooper [/COLOR]AT/3s Tyres - [COLOR="#FF0000"]ARB [/COLOR]Deluxe bullbar - LED Spotlights & Worklights - Snorkel - [COLOR="#008000"]BushSkinz [/COLOR]bash plates - 2.2m Alloy Overlander Full Rack - 2.5m [COLOR="#8B4513"]Wanderer [/COLOR]Awning - [COLOR="#FF0000"]GME [/COLOR]TX3120S UHF & [COLOR="#FF0000"]GME [/COLOR]AE4703 6.6dBi - [COLOR="#FF8C00"]Milford [/COLOR]Cargo Barrier - [COLOR="#FF0000"]JVC [/COLOR]indash DVD - [COLOR="#FF8C00"]Maxtrax [/COLOR]- Pulling a heavily modified [COLOR="#3366ff"]Jayco [/COLOR]Dove Pop Top Camper

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