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  • Bleeding cooling system

    Short version: do I need to bleed cooling system if I let air in highest hoses?
    Long version: So I removed a shower hot water system someone had installed on my used Prado cooling system. It was teed in high up on what I guess is the heater system. I took it out and put straight junctions in, but lost all the fluid at the highest point in both hoses. I thought it would just pump through. Car is running fine but I'm having issues with the LPG system not wanting to run and it's alarm going off. I want to rule out the cooling system, so do I need to bleed the system or would it have pumped through?

  • #2
    bleeding takes a while, had to run mine till hot top up, then drive then top up then drive then top up, etc, etc. Eventually all the system is free of air.

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    • #3
      Bleed the air out.

      The converter may be freezing up if not coolant in there.

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      • #4
        So I ran it with cap off, with car parked on hill, with radiator cap at highest point(just). I then squeezed the two high hoses I suspect had air in them. I did this until the point of the burn blisters on my fingers became too sore. It did seem to get air out, there were bubbles coming out the cap hole on radiator. So I hope I've done a lot to help it. Will have another go in a few days when thumbs have healed a bit.
        Anyone know if the "spill free funnels" that screw onto radiator cap spot would help me? $100 seems like an expensive gamble I can't afford right now.

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        • #5
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          • #6
            Up here in Queensland we are able to buy gloves.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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            • #7
              Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
              Up here in Queensland we are able to buy gloves.
              That'd be a long drive from Canberra.

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              • #8
                If you look at the coolant reservoir, you will see a 3rd mark above the FULL or HIGH level mark. Fill with coolant to that mark and undo the bleed plug using a 1/2 inch ratchet with short extention attached as well as loosening the reservoir cap. Run engine till fully warmed up. Top back up to that mark again and then tighten the bleed plug and reservoir cap. Drive vehicle as normal... excess coolant will overflow and will naturally return to correct level. Check next morning after a good run and it should be back to L(Low) mark. If it has dropped below the L mark, refill to the mark ABOVE the H mark and drive normally again.
                Stan Miko

                - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by stanmiko View Post
                  If you look at the coolant reservoir, you will see a 3rd mark above the FULL or HIGH level mark. Fill with coolant to that mark and undo the bleed plug using a 1/2 inch ratchet with short extention attached as well as loosening the reservoir cap. Run engine till fully warmed up. Top back up to that mark again and then tighten the bleed plug and reservoir cap. Drive vehicle as normal... excess coolant will overflow and will naturally return to correct level. Check next morning after a good run and it should be back to L(Low) mark. If it has dropped below the L mark, refill to the mark ABOVE the H mark and drive normally again.
                  where's the bleed plug at?

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                  • #10
                    To the right of the reservoir cap there should be a small black plug (round) with a square indentation on the top which fits a 3/8" drive of your socket set.
                    stanmiko
                    Member
                    Last edited by stanmiko; 14-12-2016, 06:58 PM. Reason: 1/2" drive should read 3/8" drive
                    Stan Miko

                    - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by stanmiko View Post
                      To the right of the reservoir cap there should be a small black plug (round) with a square indentation on the top which fits a 1/2" drive of your socket set.
                      so on the radiator? Would it do anything a drip free funnel that screws onto radiator cap would do? I guess itd allow thermostat to open and circulate better. Do you open it at running temp or when? Sorry for my eneducated rambling.

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                      • #12
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                        I was presuming you had one as above... if not, leave cap off and continue to top up as required as engine coolant reaches operating temperature of approx. 86 degrees. Make sure the level of the coolant in the overflow tank doesn't get below the FULL mark during this time.

                        This is the tank for cooling systems where the actual radiator does not have a cap.
                        Stan Miko

                        - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

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