Another 33" tyre thread...

[5T3L7H Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 5T3L7H]

Hi PP'ers.

I know this topic has been done to death, as I've been doing a fair bit of research, however I'm struggling to find conclusive answers.

I have a 2006 petrol, and am currently running standard size (265/70/17...?) Cooper AT's, which are nearing the end of their life. I'm thinking of making the swap to 33" BFG KM2's when the time comes, which is pretty soon.

In an ideal world (which I know it isn't), I'd like the finished project to achieve no rubbing.

I'm undecided on the rim situation at this stage, and would really like to hear peoples suggestions/experience. I'm particularly interested to hear about the different offsets people are running, and the use of spacers. I know there are some small casting tabs on the front calipers that can interfere with 16's, and I'm fine with "fixing" them if I end up taking the 16" route.



I've read posts that talk about adjustable control arms, cutting body work, removing mud guards, installing spacers, getting offset rims, etc...

Then there are other posts that say a 2" lift with "minor adjustments" will suffice...?

So I guess my main question is this: I know a minimum 2" lift is mandatory for 33s, but what else do I really need to do?

If anyone has first hand experience in this mod, I'd really like to hear from you.

For what it's worth:

• I already have a bullbar, so there is slightly more clearance on the front end.
• I'll be fitting a 2" lift (unless I need more?) before the tyre swap. (Undecided on Bilsteins or Konis - Comments are welcome)
• I live in NSW, and don't care if mods make the car "mildly illegal".
• I use lots of covered car parks - I'm interested to know clearance heights of people running this setup. (I have a Rhino Pioneer platform fitted)
• Fitting the spare to the rear door (with spacers, etc), has anyone had issues due to the increased weight?

Any info would be awesome. I know this is a worn out topic, but I'm just trying to clarify everything before I start making any moves.

Thanks in advance.

Dan

[mikenzaa Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close mikenzaa]

I've been doing some research since July this year when i got my 1KZte prado so i just want to add my thoughts.
Im running a 2 inch bilstein lift, king wheels 17x8 +30 offset Cooper STT Pro 265/70/17.
I did want to go for a 33" but then i would have to change out the upper control arms to something stronger since alot of strain from running a larger tyre.
https://www.superiorengineering.com....filter=240,355
You can get clearance just by having a +20 or a +15 offset but it wont change the fact that the drive line and suspension is under a lot more stress.
I live in Victoria and as the high country as my play ground clearance is an issue. To get as much clearance and strengthening the right areas to accommodate a 33" you need to spend big bucks.

[5T3L7H Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 5T3L7H]

Hi Mikenzaa,

Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it.

So you reckon it's doable with a +20 or a +15 offset, and some stronger upper control arms (and a 2" lift)...?

That's reassuring. I was getting worried when I read stories of people cutting body work, etc...!

Assuming I do the UCA's, what do you think would be the next most likely point of failure?

[sunny120 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close sunny120]

I'm wondering if you can run standard +30 offset with aftermarket arms and still get enough clearance, or is it a must to change the offset? Been pondering going a set of 33's myself, but just purchased new alloys, so don't really want to buy another offset rim if it can be helped. Not really worth it for an extra 15mm clearance IMO.

[mikenzaa Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close mikenzaa]

With a +20 offset, 2 inch lift and stronger UCA's you'll have no trouble. The next point of Possible failure all depends on how hard you drive it. The CV's are working even harder to move the extra weight for the wheel and tyre. The rear lower control arms are now angled to a point where they might pop off. https://www.superiorengineering.com....filter=240,355 The LCA's dont need to be changed unless performing a 3-4" lift but keep in mind, your asking the LCA to work alot harder than before. As long as you dont for example turn the wheel full lock and jam the power on to get out of a sticky situation i think you'll be fine. Once you want to go off roading just remember your pushing the factory components to their limits. Thats why we see soo many breakages of drive line and suspension components.

Just because you got clearance with new upper control arms, 2" lift with a standard +30 offset. Your 33" tyre will fail the Swing Test meaning your front tyres will rub on the inner fender during full lock, that is where you need more offset. If your ever unsure just gives the boys at Superior Engineering a call. I hope that makes sense lol

[Marty Symmo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Marty Symmo]

I'm running 33" x 10.5" x 17" / 285 x 70 x 17 muddies.
I have a +3" lift and 2015 fj cruiser rims which have an et15 offset.

Do they fit? Yes
Do they stick out past the flares? No
Do I touch anything full lock / full travel? Yes. At absolutely full lock I just rub the chassis with the rear inside of the tyre. When I am tucking a wheel or going over large bumps the wheel touches the inside of the guards which make's some noise. I was also rubbing my front mudguards but a heat gun remoulding them against the chassis fixed that.

Am I happy with the trade offs? Hell yeah! Loads of clearance, great traction, looks awesome.

Regarding uca's; rolling resistance doesn't really impact the suspension, only the weight does. As you can change to heavier steel rims with no issue why would a heavier tyre be an issue? Short answer is it won't.
The reasons for the uca's upgrade is to a. get the factory angle back after the lift and b. for the extra clearance between tyre and uca if you want to stick with the stock et30 offset.
Of course you will have more rubbing issues against the chassis on et30, so I thought better to switch the rims than the uca's.
Bigger wheels do put more strain on the driveline with the cv's normally being a weak point. Again, another trade off.

[HugoStiglitz Member Find all posts View Profile Close HugoStiglitz]

Hey 5T3L7H,
I have just swapped over to 33" this month.
my 120 has an existing 2" lift with poly air bags in the rear.

My Setup
2016 FJ Cruiser Rims (17x7.5 with P15 offset)
Mickey Thompson MTZ P3's 285x70x17
F-Shock: Bilstein F4-BES-A712-M2 F-Spring: Dobinson C59-352
R-Shock: Bilstein 24-238830 (592mm Open - 375mm Closed) R-Spring: Dobinson C59-325 + Poly Air Red Airbags

Rims - changing from P30 to P15 gained me 15mm of room from the UCA, going from 265 to 285 lost 10mm of this gain. still means 5mm better off.
I'm still within the flairs and could go out to a P0 rim if needed.

Tyre Rub - I get a small amount of rub on full lock right (not left).
while offroad on very flexy sections i get the rear tyres rub on the inside of the wheel arches (patrols and cruiser do this with 33"s also)
Just spent 4 days at Landcruiser Park without issue. woot its open again.
NOTE: when i was running my 265x70x17 ATZ P3's and Standard P30 GXL Rims i got the same rubbing in the front.


UCA - I thought about changing the UCA's instead of rims because with the UCA's get you more droop in the front as well as clear the tyre, but it would have made the full lock rubbing much worse. If i ever bust a UCA or the ball joints need replacing i will most likley swap to the Superior engineering one's for the added strength and droop.

Spare Wheel Clearance - as far as the rear door goes, I have the Kaymar spacer with Light bracket, this was fine but I don't have the factory rear bar so i'm not sure if you would run into issues with it touching the bar.

Height with 33" and 2" lift + Roof Rails, Roof Racks and an Awning I'm right around 2.1m heigh

Upgrades once this suspension is due for replacement I will swap to a 4" Dobinson MRR shock with 3" 80 Series flexi coils and ditch the airbags. I already have the longer brake lines and will see if the trailing arms need swapping once it's in. as for the front I will see if its possible to modify the ARB bash plates to accommodate a diff drop kit so I can run 3" in the front also.

[5T3L7H Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 5T3L7H]

Hi guys, sorry I haven't been back to check on this thread sooner. So much great info, love this forum!

Marty and Hugo, thanks for your detailed replies, your info is VERY useful. Greatly appreciated.

UCA - I thought about changing the UCA's instead of rims because with the UCA's get you more droop in the front as well as clear the tyre, but it would have made the full lock rubbing much worse.

Would someone be so kind as to explain why upgraded UCAs make rubbing worse at full lock? I was under the impression that it gave better clearance, and would reduce rubbing?

Edit:

Perhaps I'm reading that wrong, and it was meant as a comparison between UCAs and changing rim offset...?

[raydes Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close raydes]

rear shocks

Hugo ... your rear shocks are to short,, try 80 series ones, 620 mm long. fit good heaps more down travel without changing anything else.

[5T3L7H Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 5T3L7H]

Another question for those who've swapped up to 33's:

How do you find the accuracy of the speedo and odometer? How far out is the reading when travelling at a true speed of 100km/h?

I've previously owned a car that had wheels/tyres larger than stock (a sports car, not a 4WD). I got accustomed to the difference in speed, but it always annoyed me that I couldn't simply use the values shown on the dash.

Can anyone recommend a place in Sydney that might be able to recalibrate the system? A quick phone call to the local Toyota yard didn't yield any useful results.

[5T3L7H Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 5T3L7H]

Offset

I've been looking at a few different makes of wheels.

If I go with a "substantially" reduced offset rim, are there any issues I should be aware of?

I'm thinking of a 17" x 7" rim with an offset of +4mm...?

Am I exposing myself to any new risks by altering the offset so much? eg. Will this create more/different tyre rubbing at full lock? Wider track = Changed angles = More strain on certain parts?

Obviously I'm out of my depth with the technicalities here, but I'm a fast learner!

Would love to hear your knowledge, opinions, and experiences.

[HugoStiglitz Member Find all posts View Profile Close HugoStiglitz]

Hugo ... your rear shocks are to short,, try 80 series ones, 620 mm long. fit good heaps more down travel without changing anything else.

yeah its on my list, I like the look of the dobinson MRR 80 series shocks.
I have the extended brake lines sitting there ready.

but if I'm going to do shocks ill swap the springs for flexi's and get rid of the air bags. Only issue is that it's not going to get me that much further off road. flick the locker and travel dosn't matter so much any more.
but its on my list to do when the shocks reach the end of their life.

5T3L7H

be carefull how wide you go. or you will end up with tyre hanging outside the flairs. (illegal in qld and easily spotted)

Changing your UCA will give you extra suspension droop as well as the added clearance between it and they tyre. however you will have more rubbing at full lock as the wheel hasnt moved out from the body
best solution is to change both Rims and UCA's

P15 is minimum offset you could go (P30 is factory rims). something at P10 to P0 if you had the choice. this would keep it within the flairs but may remove the rubbing.
I only rub at absolute full lock right. left is fine. and a very slight turn back from full lock right and its ok again too.
the further out the wheels sit the more strain is put on your wheel bearings.

you will need a MINIMUM of 7.5" wide rim to fit 285's on also.

Odometer.
from factory the Prado reads something like 5-8% under.
with the 33" i think its pretty close to spot on. maybe 2-3k Over if anything

[redfog Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close redfog]

You can get KM2's in 255/80r17 size, which more or less is 33's without the width that causes all the rubbing problems.

one of only two brands that does the size as far as im aware so you are fortunate here, got some for myself in cooper st maxx


Unless of course you want the width of a 285/70r17, I didn't like this option myself but it can be done with spacers (adapters of course) and bigger flares because the wheels will stick out. You should not have rubbing issues with this setup, although it's not strictly speaking legal but ive not heard of anyone been caught for having adapters.

[raydes Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close raydes]

tyres

get caught with wheel spacers on after an accident ect and you have NO insurance, knowingly using a unroadworthy car, canceled on the spot. Not legal as well cops will do you.

[redfog Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close redfog]

Yes spacers...even adapters are illegal but he did say that he was willing to be mildly illegal which as i was aware is guaranteed either way in NSW as tyre size cant increase over 15 ml from stock (VSB14 rules) (stock is 265/65r17) without engineering etc?

Anyway the easiest and most effective two ways to do it are spacers or 255/80r17 (which size up just over 33" spending on brand)