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  • #46
    There have been a couple of developments regarding my Prado today.
    Firstly, I had a call from one of Toyota’s customer service people who had contacted their technical staff on my behalf. Their explanation, as to the most likely cause of the DPF blockage, was that I had done too much driving in slow traffic conditions before the trip and that the fifth injector carboned up and became blocked so preventing an active regeneration. I don’t buy this explanation as this is a country car with the vast majority of its travel being done at highway speeds. Secondly, whilst I did do about 500km city driving before this trip, it was mainly on motorways at speeds generally around, or above, 60kph. Lastly, if the injector was blocked, as they suggest, then the forced generation performed by the dealer would not have worked as this operation requires the fifth injector to be functioning.

    I took the car to the dealer today for its 10,000km service. It was not due yet but I figured it had had a hard start in life so I had it done at 7,500km. On the 30 km drive to the dealer, at highway speeds, I noticed an intermittent roar (not loud but noticeable without the radio on) which I was certain was an active regeneration taking place. I had tripped the fuel economy meter at the start of the trip and recorded 11.4l/100k which is way above what my previous 150 D4D used to do for the same trip. Sure enough, when the data was checked, the DPF level was at 8% as it had just performed an active regeneration. I have done this trip many times in my old Prado and found that it would achieve almost identical fuel figures in both directions. After the service, I checked the economy for the return trip and guess what, 8.4l/100km. Now that is more like it. It is evident that the active regeneration process really mucks with the economy due to the amount of diesel required for the process. Of course, the difference is not going to be nearly as dramatic over a longer run.

    The other interesting point was that the data taken from the car last week, at the end of our 1500km return trip from Port Augusta and with van in tow, indicated that the car had not performed even one active regeneration throughout the trip but that the DPF level was only around 30%. This would seem to suggest that the elevated exhaust gas temperatures, due to the car working relatively hard, were sufficient to keep the DPF in a state of passive regeneration without the need for clearing with active regeneration. This trip included the haul out of Talbingo and over the Snowy Mountains which has to be a challenging test for any vehicle with a good sized van in tow. The car was actually quite impressive in the manner in which it handled it, although still significantly less economical than my previous 150 series for the same trip.

    Toyota technical staff have described my experience as a “unique” event that they feel is unlikely to happen again. I wish I could be so confident. Many larger vehicles have an indicator that gives a reading of the DPF status and a button to press to force a regeneration. I found this quick reference guide for the DPF in a Hino motor fitted to small buses in a thread regarding the DPF in a Toyota Coaster. It makes interesting reading.

    https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h..._reference.pdf

    I would be happy just to have some indication of the status of the DPF. Does anybody know if this is possible with a ScanGauge?

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by Boba View Post
      There have been a couple of developments regarding my Prado today.
      Firstly, I had a call from one of Toyota’s customer service people who had contacted their technical staff on my behalf. Their explanation, as to the most likely cause of the DPF blockage, was that I had done too much driving in slow traffic conditions before the trip and that the fifth injector carboned up and became blocked so preventing an active regeneration. I don’t buy this explanation as this is a country car with the vast majority of its travel being done at highway speeds. Secondly, whilst I did do about 500km city driving before this trip, it was mainly on motorways at speeds generally around, or above, 60kph. Lastly, if the injector was blocked, as they suggest, then the forced generation performed by the dealer would not have worked as this operation requires the fifth injector to be functioning.

      I took the car to the dealer today for its 10,000km service. It was not due yet but I figured it had had a hard start in life so I had it done at 7,500km. On the 30 km drive to the dealer, at highway speeds, I noticed an intermittent roar (not loud but noticeable without the radio on) which I was certain was an active regeneration taking place. I had tripped the fuel economy meter at the start of the trip and recorded 11.4l/100k which is way above what my previous 150 D4D used to do for the same trip. Sure enough, when the data was checked, the DPF level was at 8% as it had just performed an active regeneration. I have done this trip many times in my old Prado and found that it would achieve almost identical fuel figures in both directions. After the service, I checked the economy for the return trip and guess what, 8.4l/100km. Now that is more like it. It is evident that the active regeneration process really mucks with the economy due to the amount of diesel required for the process. Of course, the difference is not going to be nearly as dramatic over a longer run.

      The other interesting point was that the data taken from the car last week, at the end of our 1500km return trip from Port Augusta and with van in tow, indicated that the car had not performed even one active regeneration throughout the trip but that the DPF level was only around 30%. This would seem to suggest that the elevated exhaust gas temperatures, due to the car working relatively hard, were sufficient to keep the DPF in a state of passive regeneration without the need for clearing with active regeneration. This trip included the haul out of Talbingo and over the Snowy Mountains which has to be a challenging test for any vehicle with a good sized van in tow. The car was actually quite impressive in the manner in which it handled it, although still significantly less economical than my previous 150 series for the same trip.

      Toyota technical staff have described my experience as a “unique” event that they feel is unlikely to happen again. I wish I could be so confident. Many larger vehicles have an indicator that gives a reading of the DPF status and a button to press to force a regeneration. I found this quick reference guide for the DPF in a Hino motor fitted to small buses in a thread regarding the DPF in a Toyota Coaster. It makes interesting reading.

      https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h..._reference.pdf

      I would be happy just to have some indication of the status of the DPF. Does anybody know if this is possible with a ScanGauge?
      I sent this exact question to the people who supply the scangauge but have not received a response. Surely the differential sensor info would be available.
      I was told by Toyota that the active regen is done regardless of how full the dpf is. They said it happens based on Km's done and fuel used. It equates to about every 2 to 300km's. Was thinking of wiring up an led to the 5th injector input so I can see when a regen is taking place.

      Can't see how the 5th injector carboned up as it wouldn't matter if you were driving slow or fast for long durations. Were you noticing the active burn prior to your trip with the caravan? My guess is the DPF uses roughly 15l/100km when burning. Would like to find out what the real figures on this are.
      2018 150 Series Crystal Pearl Prado VX 2.8l. 2 inch King springs and Bilstein shocks, Airtek TJM snorkel.

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by cuda View Post
        I sent this exact question to the people who supply the scangauge but have not received a response. Surely the differential sensor info would be available.
        I was told by Toyota that the active regen is done regardless of how full the dpf is. They said it happens based on Km's done and fuel used. It equates to about every 2 to 300km's. Was thinking of wiring up an led to the 5th injector input so I can see when a regen is taking place.

        Can't see how the 5th injector carboned up as it wouldn't matter if you were driving slow or fast for long durations. Were you noticing the active burn prior to your trip with the caravan? My guess is the DPF uses roughly 15l/100km when burning. Would like to find out what the real figures on this are.
        The service manager has kept a copy of the data from my car so I will double check with him. From what I saw, it had a km reading for the last active regeneration and it was the reading that would have been on the car when they did the forced regeneration at Port Augusta. Maybe the data related to the last forced regeneration, rather than the last active burn, but he seemed pretty certain.

        I am pretty sure the active regeneration was working prior to our trip. I had noticed the increased idle speed and had wondered about the extra noise from time to time. We had also, at times, noticed a hot smell near the rear of the car which I am told is indicative of an active regeneration occurring.

        I too have emailed the distributor of ScanGauge but have not heard anything back. Hopefully they are looking into it. I like the idea of the LED to indicate a burn in progress. That could be a nice little accessory for someone to develop.

        Comment


        • #49
          The amount of issues with this DPF wouldn't it be easier to remove it and put a custom tune on the ECU? Or somehow trick the two pressure differential sensors? Don't know but if it was me I'd be taking this crap out.

          Comment


          • #50
            Originally posted by cuda View Post
            ... I was told by Toyota that the active regen is done regardless of how full the dpf is. They said it happens based on Km's done and fuel used. It equates to about every 2 to 300km's. Was thinking of wiring up an led to the 5th injector input so I can see when a regen is taking place.

            ...
            I tend to agree, after having mine initiate a burn after around 200kms of highway speeds and towing our van.
            Cheers
            Micheal.

            2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
            2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by pjorek View Post
              The amount of issues with this DPF wouldn't it be easier to remove it and put a custom tune on the ECU? Or somehow trick the two pressure differential sensors? Don't know but if it was me I'd be taking this crap out.
              Hey,

              The issues with dpf's are well known, particularly in Europe (with the strictest Euro emission standards to meet), and there are companies who will do a dpf "delete" and an ECU retune for you.

              This is of course illegal, and both you and the company can be heavily fined. Any modification of a vehicles emission system is illegal.

              dpf's end up being troublesome on any vehicle they are put on. Anyone who buys a new 2.8 should be aware of this, and that dpf will never be hassle free technology.

              Hopefully there will eventually be an after market "performance" dpf that will solve any hassles the 2.8 experiences with the oem dpf.

              Best

              Mark
              2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

              Comment


              • #52
                Hey Mark,

                I'm aware that it's not legal to make mods to EGR/DPF etc. as it should be illegal to sell $60k vehicles that fall apart but you are right - legally there is not much an owner can do about this. In reality vehicle manufacturers should be held accountable to a poor design - unfortunately this will never be the case. Big corporations always win.

                Comment


                • #53
                  Very compelling reason to stick with the old truck.....thanks for this info guys.
                  2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by pjorek View Post
                    Hey Mark,

                    I'm aware that it's not legal to make mods to EGR/DPF etc. as it should be illegal to sell $60k vehicles that fall apart but you are right - legally there is not much an owner can do about this. In reality vehicle manufacturers should be held accountable to a poor design - unfortunately this will never be the case. Big corporations always win.
                    Hey,

                    Agree 100000% with those thoughts!

                    Best

                    Mark
                    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Well I am new to this forum and it makes interesting reading. I got rid of my old prado because when it went in for its 60K service, just short of 2 yrs old the dealer didn't put enough engine oil in it. The service occurred on a Friday, my wife used my car on the Saturday and travelled about 250km and the I went to the local shops on the Sunday noticing that the oil light came on. I went home immediately and parked in my garage on a flat surface and checked the oil, no oil on the dipstick at all. The car wasn't used again and on Monday morning I contacted the dealer who sent out a mechanic. We havnt put enough oil in the car, go figure. It shouldn't of caused any damage but we cant guarantee it. In short I lost my shit and they changed it over for a brand new 2.8 ltr one at a change over of $13k. The car has done 25000 km now with around 500km towing a 1.8t van and it hasn't missed a beat I don't go back to the same dealer anymore though. I get around 1400 km a tank before I refuel and it only takes about 130-135 litres. The dash ave fuel consumption reads 9.2ltr/100km. I have an ARB alloy roof rack and an ECB alloy bull bar the rest is standard.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Originally posted by jasaly01 View Post
                        Well I am new to this forum and it makes interesting reading. I got rid of my old prado because when it went in for its 60K service, just short of 2 yrs old the dealer didn't put enough engine oil in it. The service occurred on a Friday, my wife used my car on the Saturday and travelled about 250km and the I went to the local shops on the Sunday noticing that the oil light came on. I went home immediately and parked in my garage on a flat surface and checked the oil, no oil on the dipstick at all. The car wasn't used again and on Monday morning I contacted the dealer who sent out a mechanic. We havnt put enough oil in the car, go figure. It shouldn't of caused any damage but we cant guarantee it. In short I lost my shit and they changed it over for a brand new 2.8 ltr one at a change over of $13k. The car has done 25000 km now with around 500km towing a 1.8t van and it hasn't missed a beat I don't go back to the same dealer anymore though. I get around 1400 km a tank before I refuel and it only takes about 130-135 litres. The dash ave fuel consumption reads 9.2ltr/100km. I have an ARB alloy roof rack and an ECB alloy bull bar the rest is standard.

                        ...and the lesson...never trust anyone...don't need to be rude, or obstructionist, but trust no one with your car...always double check...honestly.

                        So I say "can you please keep everything you take off my car so I can look at it when I pick the car up"...I always pop the bonnet...oh, "is this your spanner sitting on the battery"..."excuse me, but the air filter that I paid for was not actually replaced"..."excuse me folks, but the oil filter is unchanged and the oil is still black, I think you've forgotten to change it"....seen it all, dealerships always apologetic, and actually I don't believe its deliberate, but they are busy and get distracted..but I've never not had enough oil... thankfully ....but mistakes can happen with the best of mechanics...mistakes and omissions do happen, its just I don't want that to turn into a disaster on my car...so I always put a mark on the bits to be changed, and I double check things before I drive away...before I even start the car, and they know I check things..I tell them, its no big deal, its just what I have done for the past several years, having seen several "omissions" before...

                        ..if we all do something similar you will amazed at what you find (or dont find) every now and then....I'm tired of hearing the same cr@p from the front counter staff at some dealerships, "we checked this, we checked that"...ah, yes, but what did you actually do or find find when you checked the brake pads, did you actually find the prop shaft bolts needed tightening when you checked them..etc....oh no, just brief, uninformed useless info that they read off a standard, pre-printed service checklist...so I always double check things, pull the dip stick, check that the filters have been changed, check for fresh grease on the drive line grease nipples etc...and also ask to speak briefly to the actual mechanic who serviced the car..and as soon as the car is out of warranty, I take it to a real technician who knows what they are doing...and who actually expects me, and asks me to double check their work. Its such a shame you had to experience one of the worst omissions..(and I would be certain it wasn't deliberate)...but not enough oil?...yikes.
                        SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          So the big question is:

                          What is the effect of installing a DPF delete pipe and maintaining all of the sensors? Surely the computer will not see zero pressure differential across the filter and still initiate a time/km based burn?

                          Has anyone actually removed the DPF without doing any ECM mods.

                          Pete

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Sorry to hear about the dpf fail. I would be very annoyed.

                            My 2.8 is 12 months old, just ticked over 40 000 with 30 000 of that towing an off-road camper around Aus. My fuel economy has been awesome even though car has been flogged. Getting car serviced this wk. Can I ask for a printout of dpf burns? What other info can I ask for? I have never noticed mine do a burn but I don't really listen for it either.

                            Hope you get it sorted ASAP.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              i tow a 2.5t full height van and have had no problems. It is a worry for now. I will seriously consider doing a dpf delete, ecu remap and turbo replacement after warranty is up!.

                              the turbo's on the 2.8 are also apparently a problem. Toyota had to put a smaller unit on because of the DPF. the rumour is the thrust washers in the turbo fail.

                              its $7K to do a turbo replacement, dpf delete and ecu remap.
                              2004 GXL V6 5 speed auto. Cooper STTs, 40mm Lift, Scanguage II, Flyer batterybox, GME3400 UHF, Engel 40L, Safari Snorkel, IPF Xeon Headlight upgrade, Milford Cargo Barrier.
                              [img]http://users.on.net/matthewv/4wd/prado.jpg[/img]

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                7k to replace turbo ? Surly not a

                                Comment

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