HELP please ! Pan removal - auto transmission 2002 3.4 petrol

[donnyb Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close donnyb]

Hi again,

I'm in the process of doing a limited auto service (screen replacement and part fluid) on the Prado 2002 V6 petrol.

Theres are couple of things in the way to getting the pan off , it seems. I have all the pan bolts out and the pan has dropped away a bit all round but it appears there's two things are stopping it going further.

The exhaust crossover pipe and the dip stick tube.

I have removed the crossover heat shield to see whats under there, so I'm at the point where I am about to try to remove the pipe itself. Do I need to do this on this model ?

And the dipstick tube..... it appears the tube is press fitted into itself about half way along its length. Is it held by just an O ring ?

Ive tried pulling it apart from under the vehicle, but it's not budging yet. Do I have to withdraw the whole length of the dipstick tube by disconnecting it at the engine ?

Anyone done this job on this model (last of the 90 series shape) and can tell me exactly what to do about the exhaust pipe and the dipstick tube ?

Also, I think the sway bar needs to be partially removed or swung away ??

Thank you ! Regards, Don

[CoreyTroy Member Find all posts View Profile Close CoreyTroy]

Don,
The top half of the dipstick tube is just pushed into the lower half.
Give it a twist and pull from the top, AFTER removing the small bracket to the engine itself, and it should lift off.

[donnyb Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close donnyb]

Thanks Corey. Its disconnected now.

Ive also got the crossover exhaust pipe out of the vehicle . Not difficult actually, those rusty flange bolts and nuts had me a bit worried but a soak in Inox did the trick. It will need new flange gaskets both ends and 3x new copper nuts at the engine end. I hope these are readily available! ?

The stabiliser bar is still in the way of the pan coming down. The pan just wont make it out with the bar there. Ever come across this ?

I will give it away now until the morning. Go QLD !
Don

[donnyb Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close donnyb]

OK, the job is done ! If you have the same model as me - 2002 series 90 Prado V6 5VZ-FE with 4 speed A343F auto this is what I had to do to change the pan to change the screen assembly.

1. Remove the cross-over exhaust pipe running from the passengers side engine manifold (3 x 14mm nuts - use long extensions on a ratchet) and from the drivers side main exhaust pipe flange (2 x 12mm nuts ). There are large ring crush flange gaskets (approx 50mm ID, 63 mm OD) in each flange joint that should come away with the crossover pipe.

2. Refer to the manual, especially personal safety aspects such as suitable support stands placement .
Undo the stabiliser bar nuts at the top of the links on each side. You need to remove both front wheels. You do this step to be able to twist the stabiliser bar running under the pan at its front end to give clearance to drop the pan out.

3. Undo all the pan bolts after draining the pan for a few hours. You may need to tap the pan with a plastic headed hammer to break the bond between gasket and pan surface. Beware ! There is still oil in that pan , so tip the pan down at the back to drain this residual out the drain plug hole. Then screw the plug back in and manouevere the pan down and out. As you do so, pull down on the dip stick tube and it should part company with its top half. I squirted a bit of Inox in there from up top to help break the O ring seal on the tube. Mine came away easily then.

4. Expect to drain out in total about 4 litres.

5. After changing the filter screen and cleaning everything, including the 2 magnets loose in the pan, reinstall in reverse order, but don't overtighten the pan bolts. I used an inch pound tension wrench set at 30"lb , but that was purely a guess as the manual is silent on the torque. I did use a light smear of RVT black silastic on the Ryco gasket both sides, and I will leave it overnight to cure given Ive read that leaks can be an issue.

I will report back on this thead after a week or so on leaks or not.

Don

[CoreyTroy Member Find all posts View Profile Close CoreyTroy]

Great write up Don.
Glad all went well for the job.

[donnyb Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close donnyb]

Great write up Don.
Glad all went well for the job.

No problem Corey. It made my wonder if this actually happens when a service centre does the job. The bolts I undid looked pretty untouched......

Maybe what they do is power flush ( back flush?) the whole system and thereby hope to flush the contaminates out too, and leave the filter screen untouched ?

Anyone in the industry like to make a comment on this?

[donnyb Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close donnyb]

No leaks at all, and transmission is changing the smoothest I can remember. A definite improvement.

[CoreyTroy Member Find all posts View Profile Close CoreyTroy]

I might do mine soon too, since no previous transmission oil change history known.

[donnyb Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close donnyb]

Yes , go for it Corey.

Re the gasket. I used a very thin layer of black RVt on both sides. But in this sequence, by using several wood dowels , to locate most of the holes in the gasket to the very clean pan surface on the bench (use GP thinner on a rag), to stop the gasket slipping around slightly. So make those dowels first. I inverted the pan (upside down) on a very flat bench surface to hold the gasket in place for a few hours, making sure first that all holes were lined up with the gasket.

Then when all was ready under the vehicle, I did the same. A thin smear on the gasket surface, make sure the transmission surface if absolutely clean using GP lacquer thinner on a rag`, and get all the bolts in finger tight. Then torque up with an inch/lb wrench as per previous post, or use a very short ring spanner to help avoid over tightening. You can always tighten a tad more later if there's a weep of oil visible after a week.

Leave the pan for 24 hours and then fill as per the manual with tranny oil. Mine took 4 litres.

Just take your time. Don

[CoreyTroy Member Find all posts View Profile Close CoreyTroy]

I will just use form-a-gasket sealant, and hope for a good seal.

[Brett1979 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Brett1979]

A tube of Toyota FIPG sealant would be the go. About $38 for a tube and damn good stuff. You can top back up with oil and drive immediately after application. Good for oil pans and also water pump. I've never come across anything as good before.