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  • Cruise control stuffed

    113,000km and my cruise has just today crapped itself. Control lever was intermittently behaving like its disconnected a couple of times over about half an hour... ie could turn it on & engage it but then no response, Disengaged with brakes but then couldn't reengage. Then couldn't turn it off either. Checked fuses incl brake lights all normal.

    Now after a restart its not switching on at all. Maybe could be a connection problem in the steering column where all the twisting happens, I'll check it in the morning but in the meantime I'm open to suggestions...

    And yes buying a new one has already crossed my mind.
    150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

  • #2
    Good opportunity to use Techstream if you have it. I'd look at grabbing the software and cable off ebay to diagnose. It will show the correct operation of the four switches.

    All the other inputs for Cruise i.e. brake input, vehicle speed etc are used for other functions so if everything else is working (speedo, brake lights) then the it certainly sounds like it could be the clockspring cable in the steering column. There's no separate ECU for the cruise control either - it's all part of the main ECM.

    I haven't had an issue yet with mine but I have certainly know of this issue with others (broken wire in the clockspring wiring). I've heard of people having the engine running and turning the steering wheel to full lock either left or right. This may allow the broken clockspring wire to make contact temporarily. I would try this and push the on/off button numerous times as you rotate the steering wheel to see if the cruise light comes on at any stage.

    I'll attach a pic of the wiring (for educational purposes) for the column stick to the main ECM.

    Edit: Just thinking - If your Prado is manual then it could also be the clutch pedal switch too.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by MacroP; 11-06-2016, 10:26 PM.

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    • #3
      Thank you Macro I was hoping for something simple like copper fatigue. Will make some explorations....
      150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

      Comment


      • #4
        Plot thickens...
        It has come back to life. I am suspecting that the Bluetooth ELM dongle connecting the ECU to my stereo might have interfered. (I run the Torque engine diagnostics program. I unplugged it yesterday after the cc malfunction. It didn't have any immediate effect but this morning the cc is working correctly. So I will leave the ELM disconnected for a while and monitor... Oh well no more sinister chuckling when the ECU thinks it has opened the EGR...
        150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

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        • #5
          Glad it's working but that's a bit scary if a OBD module can cause havoc.

          Comment


          • #6
            I know. Wouldn't usually suspect it and am hoping that the cc stops again for that reason. However the ESC & ABS dash lights have come on a few times and disconnecting said dongle makes them go away. Maybe I should buy a more expensive dongle.
            150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

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            • #7
              Meh. Doing it again. Will disassemble & test. Thanks Macro for the schematic.
              150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

              Comment


              • #8
                Bugger.

                I'd run the engine and turn the wheel from lock to lock slowly and try to push the cruise on button and see if the cruise like comes on.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yeah I did do that this morning. It worked, intermittently as you'd expect, but then stayed on for half the day and didn't fail again til after lunch (trip from Canberra to Melbourne). Worked okay again later on the drive. Could be the parking manouvres bringing the wires in and out of contact.
                  Symptom is consistent with stalk connection problem in that failure = no response to control whether it happens to be on or off at the time.
                  Gee driving without a cruise is a pain when you're used to having one.
                  150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Here's a little doc of the resistance values to expect at the switch though the issue is in the spiral cable further downstream by the looks. At least this gives you an idea of the values to expect when pushing the various buttons. The off/on button is a dead short and the others buttons are specific resistance that the ECM can decode.

                    The clockspring/spriral cable has a 12 pin connector under the dash somewhere where all the steering wheel controls come out (from the clockspring cable) so you can break that connector and do the measurements there with a multimeter if you have one. Looks like the cruise controls use pin 1 and 2. Looks for the black and brown wire next to each other.

                    Yeah you're right - driving without CC sucks. On long drives - I get lazy and actually accelerate and slow down down using the CC stalk not my right foot.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Yes I do the same, use it around town more than not too. Will pull it out when I get a chance.
                      150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

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                      • #12
                        OK pulled it apart and confirmed our suspicions. Switchgear returns resistances as per Macro's schematic. Clock spring has dropped 1 wire so will go shopping to see how much that's gonna cost... [insert scared face here]

                        I pulled the steering wheel off, but then discovered you can test this end of the magic by removing the lower steering column cover and sticking a meter onto the 2 bottom pins in the connector circled in the below diagram. If this doesn't return Macros' resistances then you need to pull the wheel off to determine whether its the switch or the clock spring wire.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        Click image for larger version

Name:	Cruise wiring output.jpg
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                        150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Nice find. At least you know the issue now but they're not cheap. I've seen them on eBay for $500 but I'm not sure they're genuine but this is a special part so I can't seeing many aftermarket companies doing them but I could be wrong. They eBay ones maybe OEM. If you want genuine then Amayama maybe your best bet for a genuine part. I have a felling, locally, Toyota may want nearly a thousand bananas for one.

                          Use http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/ to get your part number and put that number into https://www.amayama.com/en to see how this mob compares to the local dealer price. Amayama sell all genuine and also a little aftermarket.

                          Good luck.

                          Edit: had a quick look myself and I found the basic unit for a 09 to 13 prado (non VX or Kakadu) as part number 8430760020. Need to double check.

                          Found locally in Oz under 8430760020 (no precrash safety system) and not sure if genuine. http://www.allfourx4.com.au/epages/s...on=ViewProduct

                          Amayama pricing is around $400 for genuine. Be interested to see local price so I rang my local dealer here in port hedland and was quoted $1240. Wow.
                          Last edited by MacroP; 29-06-2016, 06:53 PM.

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                          • #14
                            What do you think of grabbing just the cable assembly without the airbag sensor? eg: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252441860643

                            Thanks for your research Macro, you are saving me a stack of time and money. I might grab that eBay wire assembly & suss it out, then fit it if it looks okay...
                            Last edited by Gordon; 29-06-2016, 07:44 PM. Reason: Afterthoughts
                            150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Gordon View Post
                              What do you think of grabbing just the cable assembly without the airbag sensor? eg: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252441860643

                              Thanks for your research Macro, you are saving me a stack of time and money. I might grab that eBay wire assembly & suss it out, then fit it if it looks okay...
                              Ahh, now I see why there is a huge cost for the (complete) unit. Didn't know you could separate the unit. Looks like that ebay unit doesn't come with a new steering wheel position sensor. For 75 bucks it is most certainly worth a chance. Great find. Wouldn't mind seeing some pics of the changeover process for future reference. Cheers.

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