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Servicing LC90 transfer case?

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  • Servicing LC90 transfer case?

    Hi guys,

    What I need to do to service the transfer case in my KZJ90 which is running the 1KZTE?

    What oil should I use and how should I go about it?

    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    Same process as the diffs with the drain plug and filler plug. Little tip, always loosen the filler plug a little first before loosing the drain plug, just in case you drain the oil then cannot for the life of you get the filler plug undone because the bolt is seized or something.
    The bolts of the transfer case are the same size as the rear diffs bolts. Been a while since I did mine, but the viscosity is 75w90 Gear Oil API GL4 or GL5 and 1.2L capacity. The rear diff should be hypoid gear oil API GL-5 SAE 90 and the front diff SAE 80w90. Read all the info on the bottle to make sure it states somewhere that the rear diff oil you're going to buy suits limited slip diffs.

    Good on you for learning to do these jobs yourself. You'll save yourself a lot of money over a long period of time and will learn a lot in the process. Pass on your knowledge one day to others. Just make sure you take the time and do the research to do the jobs properly otherwise you may need to pay a mechanic to fix things or you'll need to re-do things if they're not done correctly. Or worse yet you could damage to your car.
    Brett1979
    Avid PP Poster!
    Last edited by Brett1979; 15-05-2016, 10:08 AM.
    2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks a lot Brett - when you're working a tight budget I figure it's worth doing some research and giving things a go yourself before you end up paying someone else to do it.

      Thanks a lot for your advice - my LC90 is my first 4x4 and I'm still getting my head around what maintenance needs to be done!

      Comment


      • #4
        Mine is my first 4x4 too. I bought mine in 2007 with a young 130,000km on it. 9 yrs later and it's up to 350,000km. I'm keeping my car until it's done and passed 500,000km just so I can say a car I've owned had done half a million km's. So that's why it was a good idea for me to learn to work on it myself as I'll be spending money on it from time to time that's for sure. I had done all the lube changes in all cars I'd owned and only paid for the very first one in this car shortly after I bought it. It's an incredibly reliable car though and I'm very confident in taking it to remote places which many owners of current model Jeep Grand Cherokee's cannot do unfortunately. It amuses me when people think 120,000km or 180,000km or so in a 6 cylinder car is a high kilometre engine. That's nothin. 200,000km is nothing. A 300,000km old 3.4L Prado is not an old engine by any means if it was serviced regularly. Sure it's got a few km's on it but I'd be dissapointed if the engine in my car didn't last 500,000km. With a 250,000km old V6 engine for example it's just the things around it that fail around this period and over time such as starter motors, alternators and radiators. The engine itself will keep going and going. And the great thing about the 95 series Prado is the transmission should outlast the engine.

        I've only ever used mineral grade engine oil too. Penrite for 3/4 worth of my oil changes until their price crept up and up and then I switched to Nulon who're still reasonably priced. For the most part oil's oil man. It's mostly the same base compound from one brand to another and they each just top it off with their own (marketing) additives to try and seperate themselves from the pack. Ive never used a synthetic oil due to it being overpriced and I really don't like the idea of leaving the same oil in the engine for up to 15,000km anyway as it gets just as contaminated by driving as mineral oil. When I had the rocker covers off recently the cam shafts were clean as a whistle and there was no trace of sludge of any kind which I was happy about. I read somewhere years ago that Penrite engine oil caused sludge build-up. They were wrong. If that happened in their own car that would've been because the oil at some stage or repeatedly would've been left in the engine for way too long. I've only ever had engine flush treatment used in my car once and that was when I paid for a mechanic to do my first oil change in it.

        It's a damn good car the 95 series Prado. So good that I'm currently leaning towards buying a lower km 2000-2002 model Prado when I look at buying another car that I can also keep for a long time. That way I can just swap all my gear over to it and donate my old one to the wreckers. But the most important thing is I know it'll be a reliable car. I believe I'm on a good thing and am of the mind that I'll stick to it for my next car. I know a few people that have bought new model cars over the past 2yrs and most of them have had to take them back to the dealer for various warranty issues and to me that is just unacceptable considering what they paid.
        Brett1979
        Avid PP Poster!
        Last edited by Brett1979; 16-05-2016, 06:04 PM.
        2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

        Comment

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