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  • #16
    Having a bit of a problem with the diff breathers for my GLX 2.8 Diesel auto 4/16 build.

    I've done the rear diff and plumbed it up into the engine bay, no probs at all.

    The factory front diff breather terminates up under the power steering fluid reservoir which is pretty high up in the engine bay so I just might leave it alone. It wouldn't be a problem to extend it a few inches in any case.

    By crawling underneath the vehicle I've located the two transfer case breather hoses laying along the bell housing but there's no way I can find where they terminate. This thread and youtube suggest they terminate between the firewall and the rear of the engine but in the 2.8 its impossible to see into this space, nevermind reach in and undo any retaining clips! I imagine I would still be able to splice into these tubes from underneath and run the lengthened tubes up into the engine bay without too much difficulty.

    This leaves the breather for the auto tramsmission, the one with the white cap. Buggered if I know where it is in the 2.8. Apparently in the 3litre it terminates with the transfer case breathers and be clipped in with them but, as I can't see these either, for the time being I'm stuffed.

    I'd be greatful for any hints/help/pics on how to locate the auto transmission breather and hose.

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    • #17
      This is where the transfer case and automatic gearbox breathers finish on a 150 with 3.0 D4D. Have a look on a 2.8 and post a pic to compare. Photo taken from right guard looking down to the bell housing.



      The factory caps aren't breathers so in my opinion you should change them even if you decide to leave the front where it currently is.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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      • #18
        Same as in the photo. I was able to pull mine out of their clip reaching them from the drivers side underneath the car. You are working blind but you can feel the clip. I just extended them and put new breather on.

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        • #19
          This is the pic of the area between the firewall and the back of the engine in the 2.8, quite unlike the 3.0 and nothing to be seen of the breathers, too much piping in the way.

          Click image for larger version

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          Thanks John and mjr for your help, I'll get under again and have a good feel about

          Comment


          • #20
            Sarco, I reckon they are still there but you can't see them. The factory caps are on the bell housing which you can't see in your pic. This is backed up by John's advice.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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            • #21
              Originally posted by JohnC80 View Post
              Thanks guys got it done today. 2 breathers were in a clip right at their end and one was by itself.
              John (others),
              How did you get your hand up on top of the bell housing to release the clip? Did you give it a yank or physically unclip the 3 hoses? I can't touch them let alone unclip them, no matter how I lye under the car - it's the gap between the exhaust, housing and firewall shrouds, it's so tight... Got the other clips on top of the box, just can't get to where they terminate...

              Any help would be great.

              Cheers.
              2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Lski View Post
                John (others),
                How did you get your hand up on top of the bell housing to release the clip? Did you give it a yank or physically unclip the 3 hoses? I can't touch them let alone unclip them, no matter how I lye under the car - it's the gap between the exhaust, housing and firewall shrouds, it's so tight... Got the other clips on top of the box, just can't get to where they terminate...

                Any help would be great.

                Cheers.
                Still haven't been able to do mine either!

                Comment


                • #23
                  Just lie underneath and reach up on the gearbox and pull down. Passenger side. Be aware there are some sharp heat shields up there. Go easy.
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Great thread,

                    Was looking at doing my rear diff I did get under To have a look very tight I'm assuming everyone used jack stands ? I'm guessing I'll need to buy some
                    I had taken my 79 series for granted I could pitch a tent under it, with our stock Kakadu only just fit no room to work that's for sure.

                    Any one know how the factory heads work ? Do they pull shut when you rapidly cool the diff.
                    Obviously over prolonged water exposure they will open again just trying to assess if this is a must prior to my Xmass High country trip or if they will be ok for a few short deep crossings

                    As well any one have any info about the Kakadu, is there a rear diff lock or airbag breather vent that need extending ?

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      An update on my breather changes:
                      • Car is GX 2.8 diesel auto April 16 build.
                      • Used the Air on Board kit and some vacuum connectors.
                      • Rear breather is straight forward. Quite lazy of Toyota to simply put the breather on the diff itself. Just fiddly feeding the line to the front of the car. Looked at putting around tail light or fuel filler but there is a lot of dust accumulation in those areas.
                      • Transfer and Gear box: these breathers are hard to see & get to; they do terminate in usual spot. But with 2.8 access is now difficult. Driver side is exhaust/DPF and EGR, passenger side a couple of large cable collections.
                      • Photo with hoses removed; just see white gearbox clip.
                      • Found best access from driver side; remove wheel; drop plastic cover; if hand, wrist & arm small enough can get between exhaust and firewall and remove 3 breathers from clips.
                      • You can feel these breathers – connectors and hoses – put hand up beside transfer on driver side.
                      • Two transfer lines are long enough to drop below transfer to work on. As noted can use 3 or 4 mm connectors. Note the 2 breathers on the transfer are one way.
                      • Gearbox line is short and makes working on difficult. Note this breather is 2 way – this seems a worry. Had to cut about 10mm off hose to remove breather. It is larger hose.
                      • Photo of white gearbox breather & hose size; 2 transfer breathers and clip; AirOnBoard PV hose.
                      • Have not done front diff yet; but it is quiet high in similar location to 3.0 engine. Looks difficult to unclip as with 2.8 engine access to stuff seems more difficult ; might replace whole line but need to remove Tin’s bash plate to get to front diff.
                      • Final comment: I came from 80 series & trusty, albeit slow, 1HZ engine that is simple, keeps going and access usual straight forward. The 2.8 has many pipes, wires & connectors. And I find the power Ok, not massive, but I am comparing to the 1HZ!

                      Gerry
                      Attached Files

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                      • #26
                        Your a better man than me, I just did the rear only was easy also managed to use 3 factory clips ( the last 3 towards the engine bay ) the front as you mention Gerry does not want to move and is fairly well protected so I thought might as well just leave it.

                        As you mentioned the transfer / box breathers are a lot of work after talking to my brother who has a 3lt 150 he said when he had his auto box and transfer oils changed there was no evidence of water. Now this was after our trip to Tassi 4wding and if there was ever a time it was going to see water it was then, constant water up to windows one crossing after the other ect.

                        So I decided rear only

                        Also noted the rear sucked air in when I loosened the factory fitting so they work well
                        Longevity of the factory rear is the issue as it would be blocked after a few trips th others are well protected

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Finally finished all 5 breathers tonight!

                          I don't know how anyone can physically get their hand onto the 3 breathers on the bell housing, I had to remove the wheel and make up a wire jig to yank the single gearbox breather out of the bracket. It was then easy enough to maneuver the hose down beside the box, pull out the oem breather add in a new joiner and hose, then run it up into the engine bay.

                          I left the two transfer case breathers in there standard position and disconnected them back on top of the gearbox (at the hose joiner), then ran new joiners/hoses from there up into the engine bay to the new breather position.
                          2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Lski View Post
                            John (others),
                            How did you get your hand up on top of the bell housing to release the clip? Did you give it a yank or physically unclip the 3 hoses? I can't touch them let alone unclip them, no matter how I lye under the car - it's the gap between the exhaust, housing and firewall shrouds, it's so tight... Got the other clips on top of the box, just can't get to where they terminate...

                            Any help would be great.

                            Cheers.
                            Sorry mate just saw this. From memory I just followed the hoses with my fingers until I felt the clip and then pulled them out. Was pretty hard to get too.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                              Just lie underneath and reach up on the gearbox and pull down. Passenger side. Be aware there are some sharp heat shields up there. Go easy.
                              Well that explains the inch long cut and blood on the hand..........................should have read this first.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Just did the auto and transfer breathers today. A MUCH harder job than it was on my old 120 V6 5 speed auto with much less space to work with but it is doable. The biggest problem is not being able to see anything. To achieve this take the rhs front wheel off and the piece of rubber sheet between the mudguard and the chassis. This JUST allows you to see the gearbox breather IF you get your head in the right spot with a good light! Now get a very long screwdriver or a small jemmy or something similar and lever the gearbox hose UP [ie pull the lever down] to free it from the clip. Repeat twice for the other 2 breathers. Now they are free they can hang down beside the gearbox far enough to get at them from below. Put rubber cover and wheel back on, off jack and up onto ramps. Now from underneath I found it easier to cut off the existing breathers as close as possible to the breather because they were too hard to twist with the space avaiable. There is enough hose to do this.Put the appropriate joiners into your 3 new hoses with the help of a little WD 40 or similar and then get back under the car and insert the rest of the joiners into the 3 hoses under there. I passed the extended hoses up the rhs of the motor keeping them away from the exhaust and the DPF by passing them up under the AC lines [and protecting them with a bit of rubber in case of movement. I zip tied the 3 of them to the big tube of electrical conduit which runs across the back top of firewall. The original breathers were inserted into the hoses. I know that others have fancy filters etc but I had no issues doing it this way on the 120 for 8 years. Toyota sees fit to use these breathers on all of their cars. The other point to watch is where the breather hoses leave the gearbox and crosess to the body: there is a sharp bit of metal there so I protected the hose at this point with a bit of convoluted split hose. I will monitor it to see if it becomes heat affected.
                                I considered doing the front breather but it is a bugger to get to without moving the power steering resevoir so I may leave it as the top of it is a metre above the ground anyway and only another 15 cm is possible. It is only 10-15 cm below the other 3 anyway and if I am stuck in that deep that will be the least of my worries.
                                I haven't done the rear one yet but that is the same as the 120 and I will just run the extended hose up through the bung in the left and corner of the floor and up behind the tail light in the jack compartment, again with the standard breather. In the 120 I never smelt any fumes in 8 years and in any case the flow through ventilation exits here.
                                All up it took a casual 3-4 hours with a lot of that time jacking, taking the wheel off and on, getting tools out and away.Doable but fiddly.

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