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  • #31
    Originally posted by LeighW View Post
    You'll also note if you look at the wiring schematics they show all electrical devices being connected to their appropriate earth points in the earth loom. You'll find if you look at that earth point in the rear that it will also have the earth loom connected to it.

    https://www.hkbelect.com/uploads/pro...th%20point.gif

    Brake lines, fuel lines are tubes, not solid copper and your assuming there is another earth return to share the current. In the cases quoted devices were grounded to metal work that was only grounded through the lines, it was assumed the body work would make a good conductor, it didn't!

    Yes corrosion caused by stray currents, stray currents are usually caused by people
    using the chassis/body work as an earth return!

    The body is earthed to prevent difference of potentials and stray currents occurring, not to allow it to be used as an earth return. Earthing the body also allows it to act as an earth screen to reduce RF problems.

    As I wrote if it was ok to use the body as a conductor you wouldn't have the earth loom!

    Enough said if you wish to use the cars metal work as a conductor to save a few dollars then whatever floats your boat, I prefer to pay a bit more and do it right the first time for maximum reliability and to avoid possible hassles later.

    Thanks LeighW, I am much clearer about cables for my soon to be designed and installed auxiliary battery. I'll run a positive AND negative cable (as I did last time and it worked fine)...I just wanted to check.
    Now...at the risk of asking another question that may start an avalanche...... I was thinking of using a tinned copper, marine quality cable....to reduce corrosion in the cable....is that a reasonable idea or just a plain waste?
    SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

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    • #32
      Hi brogers, it would be a slight increase in cost and tinned cable is usually stiffer to work with, but you would not gain anything from it’s use as you would also not loose anything, other than above, if you did use it.

      It is simply your choice.

      Most vehicle wiring is sealed in one form or another but this is more to do with the high tech communications used in most modern vehicles.

      With dual battery cabling, the most likely place you will get potential problems from corrosion, is at the rear Anderson plug and in this case, even tinned wiring would be susceptible.

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
        With dual battery cabling, the most likely place you will get potential problems from corrosion, is at the rear Anderson plug and in this case, even tinned wiring would be susceptible.
        I've noticed this and I've had to replace the Anderson plug, is there a reason for the corrosion
        [B]Steve[/B]

        2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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        • #34
          Hi krypton, and not sure why the terminals corrode.

          I have an Anderson plug at the rear, which gets it’s share of mug and such but I have never needed to do anything more than hose it out.

          I have another under the bonnet and it has to be replaces because one of the terminals is corroded????????

          Comment


          • #35
            Interesting point about anderson plugs, the quality of the plug may have something to
            do with it.

            Generally in electronics true silver connections tends to go black (tarnish) rather than corrode.

            I would image the main problem with the anderson "type" connectors is the silver plate is very thin and wears quickly allowing the copper plate, I'm assuming its copper plate as they don't appear to be solid copper to green up?

            Pitty they don't gold plate them but I imagine to make them plate robust enough would make them to expensive.
            HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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            • #36
              We replaced the wiring in a mates camper year before last. The camper was local but probably all sorts for parts. The wiring was a mess and the copper strands covered in verdigris the entire length of the cable. Resistance was higher than new clean wire. Camper didn't look abused but the insulation was clearly poor quality.

              I use tinned cable simply because that is what my supplier sells but I have noticed verdigris inside the first bit of cable with natural copper that I used years ago. Haven't noticed any extra stiffness and I doubt you would with a quality multi strand cable.

              If the cost isn't heinous go tinned.

              I have noticed a huge variance in quality between genuine Anderson plugs and some of the copies. Connectors corrode quickly and the plastic falls apart and suffers embrittlement quickly. Genuine plugs are cheap and in my experience are a better product.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • #37
                I only use genuine USA made SMH or Anderson plugs ( Same company ) and I suspect the plug under the bonnet may have been contaminated with some form of chemical.

                And mjrandom, you are right about only using the genuine article. There are a number of Anderson Plug knockoffs and they all seem to have very weak springs and/or much smaller contact areas, and as you posted, crap plastic housings.

                Hi Leigh, Anderson terminals are as you posted, silver coated copper.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
                  I only use genuine USA made SMH or Anderson plugs ( Same company ) and I suspect the plug under the bonnet may have been contaminated with some form of chemical.

                  And mjrandom, you are right about only using the genuine article. There are a number of Anderson Plug knockoffs and they all seem to have very weak springs and/or much smaller contact areas, and as you posted, crap plastic housings.

                  Hi Leigh, Anderson terminals are as you posted, silver coated copper.
                  The corroded plug was one of yours with not a lot of use, it was pretty well unusable
                  [B]Steve[/B]

                  2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Hi again krypton, did you notice any residue or the likes on the terminals?

                    BTW, keep an eye on the new one and if you have a problem again, let me know and I’ll send you replacement terminals.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Thanks all for the input you've helped me a lot!!
                      I have been researching the different isolators and am still undecided. What is the major advantages of spending more and going with something like the Traxide usi-160 or sb80 or projecta dbc100 or redarc sbi12d? Trying to keep cost down and will probably not have a winch in the near future.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
                        Hi again krypton, did you notice any residue or the likes on the terminals?

                        BTW, keep an eye on the new one and if you have a problem again, let me know and I’ll send you replacement terminals.
                        Thanks, I just put it down to wear and tear but was surprised. Actually thought the compressor was stuffed when I plugged it in.
                        [B]Steve[/B]

                        2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Went for a decent drive on the weekend so ran some voltage tests. Used the 12v plug inside to measure with my multimeter. Before I left I measured the start battery at the terminals and it was 12.45v with nothing on. I turned the ignition on but had nothing else on (air-con etc) and tested the battery and the 12v plug. Both read 12.43v. Idled the car at 900rpm and the voltage sat at 13.68v for the battery and the 12v plug. Bought the revs up to 1,500 and 2,000rpm and the voltage sat at 13.72v for the battery and the 12v plug. I did these tests as I wanted to see if the 12v plug measured similar to the start battery.
                          Went for a drive for 2 & 1/2hrs testing the plug every 10mins. I tested with air off and air on. Only other things running was the stereo, iphone charging and the lights were on. Plug voltage measured from 13.68 to 13.73 for the entire trip. Revs were also noted and this didn’t seem to affect the volts. Once I turned the car off I let it settle for 30mins. Start battery tested at 12.85v with nothing on.
                          I decided to do this test as I was told that the volts would settle to low 13’s within an hr of driving the car. I did not see this. Obviously I wasn’t able to test amps but the brains trust will decide if this was a pointless exercise or not. Would be great to see what amps the alternator is producing during this time.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by JohnC80 View Post
                            Went for a decent drive on the weekend so ran some voltage tests. Used the 12v plug inside to measure with my multimeter. Before I left I measured the start battery at the terminals and it was 12.45v with nothing on.
                            I have tested mine and it is the same - 12.4V when parked up, even after a long drive. I thought a fully charged battery should be 12.8V??

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Hi John and Leadwings, 12.4v has your battery at 80% SoC, and a fully charged cranking battery normally around 12.5v ( 90% SoC ) to 12.7v ( 100% SoC ).

                              While you might have expected a higher settled voltage than 12.4v after a long drive, there are other factors that will also effect the total charge of your cranking battery.

                              The most common cause of lower than fully charged cranking batteries after a long drive is how was the vehicle used in the week prior to that long drive.

                              If you continually do lots of short drives then your cranking battery will progressively loose its usable capacity.

                              I single long drive every so often can regain some of that lost capacity but if you know the bulk of your driving is always going to be lots of short drives ( the Shopping Trolley Syndrome ) then it will be very advantageous to give your cranking battery a long, low current charge every month or even more often if you have a mind to.

                              Most modern vehicle use causes this problem and either the periodical battery charge or, depending on situation, like the location of your vehicle during the day, a small solar panel can, over a period of just a few weeks, bring your battery back to a fully charged state at all times and get back most, if not all the lost capacity.
                              drivesafe
                              Senior Member
                              Last edited by drivesafe; 28-09-2016, 03:04 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
                                ...to 127v ( 100% SoC ).
                                1000%?????
                                My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                                Comment

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