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  • #16
    Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi John, as Leigh has posted, you will need to do some voltage measuring to see just what is now the go with the Toyota alternator operation.

    You are in Brisbane and I am on the Gold Coast, so I have two suggestion for you, if you are interested.

    If you want to bring your new Toyota down to me, I can carry out some NON INTRUSIVE voltage tests and set up a link with Leigh, to to see if we can establish how the new system works.

    The other option, if you have a digital multi meter, is for you to measure the voltage at your cranking battery while you are driving.

    I have a simple Safety Lead that connects to the terminals of your cranking battery, and then runs into the cab, just run the twin wire in to the cab via the passengers door, while the door is opened.

    With the twin wire located in the cab, shut the door on the wire.

    The wire has a 1 amp in-line fuse, mounted near the battery and a set of twin screw block terminal in the cab.

    You then fit the probes, on your multi meter, to the other side of each of the screw block terminal.

    This is something you can either make yourself, or I can post one up to you.

    NOTE, this is a far more accurate way to monitor your alternator voltage than using one of the cigarette socket type voltage monitors.
    you can always get a cig socket with wire and terminal block as described to connect to a meter.
    as the meter puts 3 parts of FA load on the circuit it will give an accurate reading of battery voltage.
    only a suggestion

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
      Hi John, as Leigh has posted, you will need to do some voltage measuring to see just what is now the go with the Toyota alternator operation.

      You are in Brisbane and I am on the Gold Coast, so I have two suggestion for you, if you are interested.

      If you want to bring your new Toyota down to me, I can carry out some NON INTRUSIVE voltage tests and set up a link with Leigh, to to see if we can establish how the new system works.

      The other option, if you have a digital multi meter, is for you to measure the voltage at your cranking battery while you are driving.

      I have a simple Safety Lead that connects to the terminals of your cranking battery, and then runs into the cab, just run the twin wire in to the cab via the passengers door, while the door is opened.

      With the twin wire located in the cab, shut the door on the wire.

      The wire has a 1 amp in-line fuse, mounted near the battery and a set of twin screw block terminal in the cab.

      You then fit the probes, on your multi meter, to the other side of each of the screw block terminal.

      This is something you can either make yourself, or I can post one up to you.

      NOTE, this is a far more accurate way to monitor your alternator voltage than using one of the cigarette socket type voltage monitors.
      Take up drivesafe's offer JohnC80! - offering to have his and Leigh's experience put together to understand the new the smart alternator is a very generous offer. These two have already contributed so much to this forum and all the other Pradopointers that have and are looking at the 2.8L will certainly benefit from it - including me, wish I was closer to Melbourne or Gold Coast!
      Cheers
      Micheal.

      2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
      2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

      Comment


      • #18
        Could also use an OBDII device and the Torque Pro app for voltage readings.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
          Hi John, as Leigh has posted, you will need to do some voltage measuring to see just what is now the go with the Toyota alternator operation.

          You are in Brisbane and I am on the Gold Coast, so I have two suggestion for you, if you are interested.

          If you want to bring your new Toyota down to me, I can carry out some NON INTRUSIVE voltage tests and set up a link with Leigh, to to see if we can establish how the new system works.

          The other option, if you have a digital multi meter, is for you to measure the voltage at your cranking battery while you are driving.

          I have a simple Safety Lead that connects to the terminals of your cranking battery, and then runs into the cab, just run the twin wire in to the cab via the passengers door, while the door is opened.

          With the twin wire located in the cab, shut the door on the wire.

          The wire has a 1 amp in-line fuse, mounted near the battery and a set of twin screw block terminal in the cab.

          You then fit the probes, on your multi meter, to the other side of each of the screw block terminal.

          This is something you can either make yourself, or I can post one up to you.

          NOTE, this is a far more accurate way to monitor your alternator voltage than using one of the cigarette socket type voltage monitors.

          Thanks but I have decided to go a different set-up for my battery charging.

          Comment


          • #20
            Not a problem John, let us know how it goes.

            If anybody else is in the Gold Coast - Brisbane area, with a new 150 and would like to help, if you get the battery and battery tray you want, I’ll be happy to supply a free Engine Bay Dual Battery kit if you can spare some time to allow for some voltage measuring.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
              Hi John, as Leigh has posted, you will need to do some voltage measuring to see just what is now the go with the Toyota alternator operation.

              You are in Brisbane and I am on the Gold Coast, so I have two suggestion for you, if you are interested.

              If you want to bring your new Toyota down to me, I can carry out some NON INTRUSIVE voltage tests and set up a link with Leigh, to to see if we can establish how the new system works.

              The other option, if you have a digital multi meter, is for you to measure the voltage at your cranking battery while you are driving.

              I have a simple Safety Lead that connects to the terminals of your cranking battery, and then runs into the cab, just run the twin wire in to the cab via the passengers door, while the door is opened.

              With the twin wire located in the cab, shut the door on the wire.

              The wire has a 1 amp in-line fuse, mounted near the battery and a set of twin screw block terminal in the cab.

              You then fit the probes, on your multi meter, to the other side of each of the screw block terminal.

              This is something you can either make yourself, or I can post one up to you.

              NOTE, this is a far more accurate way to monitor your alternator voltage than using one of the cigarette socket type voltage monitors.
              I have a digital multimeter (and a new 2.8 D4D) but I'm in Sydney and not planning to come to the GC anytime soon. Can I measure the voltage at idle once it's warmed up?

              I ended up taking the plunge and putting in a second battery under the hood through a RedArc isolator, I need it in place to run a fridge in the back for a couple of days post-Christmas. Guess I'll find out soon enough if I need to add a DC charger or booster.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by InnerCityBoy View Post
                I have a digital multimeter (and a new 2.8 D4D) but I'm in Sydney and not planning to come to the GC anytime soon. Can I measure the voltage at idle once it's warmed up?
                Hi ICB and unfortunately, it may not be that simple, but you can’t harm anything by doing so.

                Try measuring the voltage just after you start the motor and then as you suggested, after a drive, with the motor at idle.

                If can, when the motor is warm and idling, also try turning on your headlights and as many accessories as you can, measure the voltage, then turn them all off and with the motor still at idle, measure the voltage again.

                With some makes of vehicles, turning on something like the headlights, can cause the alternator voltage to rise.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by drivesafe View Post

                  If anybody else is in the Gold Coast - Brisbane area, with a new 150 and would like to help, if you get the battery and battery tray you want, I’ll be happy to supply a free Engine Bay Dual Battery kit if you can spare some time to allow for some voltage measuring.
                  Hi Tim im springfield QLD and have a new 2.8l.
                  I have just recieved my scan gauge today so if you would like i can give you any details (once i figure out how to use it)for volts if still interested.
                  Thanks Dan
                  Arb colour code deluxe bar, safari snorkel, lightforce venom HID's, GME uhf remote face, redarc tow pro, redarc bcdc 1240, pioneer platform, 40" curved light bar, dual battery, 3" SS exhaust, EGR mod, trans cooler upgrade, provent catch can, scangauge 2, diesel care secondary fuel filter, Tin's bash plates and actuator gaurd, 2in Bilstien and kings lift,

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hi Dan and thank you for your offer and I will be VERY interested.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
                      Hi Dan and thank you for your offer and I will be VERY interested.
                      Well finally got it after driving around for about an hour inc highway and normal it seams there not a variable volt.
                      First cold start it was 13.7v then driving around it didn't go below 13.6v
                      This is with a standard set-up, no second battery hooked up or any other electronic stuff turned on
                      Arb colour code deluxe bar, safari snorkel, lightforce venom HID's, GME uhf remote face, redarc tow pro, redarc bcdc 1240, pioneer platform, 40" curved light bar, dual battery, 3" SS exhaust, EGR mod, trans cooler upgrade, provent catch can, scangauge 2, diesel care secondary fuel filter, Tin's bash plates and actuator gaurd, 2in Bilstien and kings lift,

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Thanks for the info Dan and I think Leigh will be interested in that data as well.

                        Thanks again.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Aftet a fair bit of driving today at all speeds the lowest volt was 13.4 so looking good for a normal relay. Not that it maters for me cause ive all ready brought a redarc dc-dc
                          Arb colour code deluxe bar, safari snorkel, lightforce venom HID's, GME uhf remote face, redarc tow pro, redarc bcdc 1240, pioneer platform, 40" curved light bar, dual battery, 3" SS exhaust, EGR mod, trans cooler upgrade, provent catch can, scangauge 2, diesel care secondary fuel filter, Tin's bash plates and actuator gaurd, 2in Bilstien and kings lift,

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Looking good for a voltage booster diode.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              The issue might be identifying which circuit to insert it though. (no meaningful info/toyota manual to work with)
                              Cheers
                              Micheal.

                              2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                              2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                That is the situation, until I can obtain some info regarding the circuit setup
                                I'm unable to recommend the use of my units in the 2.8Ltr. One picture I was
                                sent of the fuse box lid showed an "ALT-S/ICS" fuse from memory, another has
                                a "SMART" fuse, these may or may not be to do with the alternator.

                                Until I can obtain relevant information from Toyota or someone who owns a 2.8
                                and has the technical ability to to determine if or which is the fuse in the alternator
                                sense lead I would not recommend the use of my boosters.

                                It would seem from the voltage readings given that they have retained the standard
                                alternator setup, the fuse box changes may be in prepartion to a change to a smart
                                alternator down the track, or Toyota may have simply reverted to a similar system used
                                in other Land curuiser of a fusible link, in which case the easiest option would be to install
                                a fuse holder at the alternator for the booster.

                                Time will tell no doubt.
                                HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                                Comment

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