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  • Originally posted by 120D4D View Post
    Just wondering Tim, on Storage Mode, does the SC80 consider any voltages above 12.80 to be surplus and allow it to back discharge into the cranking battery?
    I'm noticing that each time I switch it over to storage mode I always have 12.80 - 12.81 at the Optima even when starting out with 12.95.
    Hi Michael, the voltage you see at the Optima, once the isolator has turned off ( Cut-Out ) is an OPEN CIRCUIT voltage.

    Optimas can have an OPEN CIRCUT State of Charge voltage reading of up to 13.1v. The problem is that OPEN CIRCUIT voltage readings of ANY battery does NOT reflect the actual CAPACITY of a battery.

    You can have a battery with an OPEN CIRCUIT voltage reading indicating the battery is fully charged, but place even a small load on the battery and it can go flat in minutes.

    In your case, with the SC80 in STORAGE Mode, when you turn off your motor, because your cranking battery is always going to be slightly lower ( or much lower with out an SC80 ) than the auxiliary battery, the auxiliary battery will reverse charge into the cranking battery.

    But a short time after turning the motor off, the cranking battery will have pulled the COMMON voltage of both batteries down to below the Cut-Out threshold of the SC80 when in STORAGE Mode.

    At this point the SC80 turns off and both batteries then begin to settle independent of one another.

    Again because the cranking is not fully charged, it will continue to settle down, while the Optima will settle up and not necessarily because it is fully charged, the Optima has a much high fully charged OPEN CIRCUIT voltage reading.

    So even when not fully charged, an Optima will still settle up higher than the cranking battery, once all loads are removed from the Optima.

    The TURN ON ( Cut-In ) voltage level of the SC80 is 13.2v and this is deliberately set to be just above the maximum SETTLED voltage level of any battery, like Optimas, that have a high SETTLED voltage level.

    The highest SETTLED voltage of some lead acid battery is 13.1v, but most will have a maximum SETTLED voltage level of between 12.7v to 12.85v.

    In any case, no lead acid battery will settle up high enough to turn the SC80 back on again.

    Only starting the motor will raise the voltage high enough to cause the SC80 to turn on ( Cut-In ) again.

    And again, this is done deliberately ( by most VSR type isolators ) to stop the isolator oscillating on and off, once the motor is turned off and the SC80 has Cut-Out, and batteries like Optimas, settle up once any form of load is removed from the battery.



    NOTE the only way to gauge the true CAPACITY of a battery, is to carry out a controlled load test, and this can be something as simple as placing a known current load on the battery.

    Preferably, for best accuracy, a load somewhere between 1% and 2% of a battery’s total Ah. For a Optima D34 ( 55Ah ), a load no larger than 1 amp would give you a very accurate indication of the TRUE capacity of a battery.

    You simple monitor the battery voltage WHILE THE LOAD IS CONNECTED, and see how long it takes for the voltage to get down to 12.0v.

    Theoretically, with a 1 amp load, it should take about 20 to 22 hours for an Optima D34 ( 55Ah ) battery, in good condition, to discharge down to 12.0v

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Fred63 View Post
      if your going down the Redarc DC DC path ARB make a tray that the charger can be mounted on.
      Thanks Fred63,
      I know that ARB, TJM, Piranha & others all make trays for the 2.8 l Prado. What I'm trying to do is find out whether one is necessary or not.
      [COLOR=#b22222]Prado 150 2.8 GX Auto - ARB Bull Bar, Towbar, Dual Batteries, UHF, 2" lift with King Springs & Bilsteins[/COLOR]

      Comment


      • Just grab a genuine Toyota hold down bracket and a plastic tray, the mounts are there ready to go. It's good enough for the start battery so good enough for the aux battery ( in my opinion, what I did in mine )

        Comment


        • Originally posted by geo View Post
          Thanks Fred63,
          I know that ARB, TJM, Piranha & others all make trays for the 2.8 l Prado. What I'm trying to do is find out whether one is necessary or not.
          It seems a few people don't bother with a tray, but brace the battery bracket to the radiator support. This stops the battery from rocking/moving. From what I've read there is a threaded hole under the plastic trim.

          Will

          Comment


          • Thanks for the advice guys. It certainly looks as if the space was made for another battery so I probably won't bother with a special tray & just mount my 2nd battery on a tray with a hold-down clamp.
            [COLOR=#b22222]Prado 150 2.8 GX Auto - ARB Bull Bar, Towbar, Dual Batteries, UHF, 2" lift with King Springs & Bilsteins[/COLOR]

            Comment


            • I had a Supercheap battery tray but it was a bit too long and was rubbing on the hose to the intercooler as the motor moved. I gave replaced it with a TJM one with the top brace included. Much more sturdy.

              Comment


              • Hi All,

                A while back I installed a dual battery system for my 2015 2.8 GXL for our east coast trip.
                After some reading through here I decided to run a inter-volt solid state programmable isolator which I got off eBay. The kit I got included all wiring and a remote switch to manually combine the batteries. I decided to on a Delkor M27 97ah battery. I went down the path of contacting Toyota for a battery tray but they were looking for around $220 I think it was for the plastic tray and mount. So I decided on a generic tray from Autobarn and made my own hold down mounts. I also installed 2 heavy duty cables down to a 12 fuse box that sits in the back which runs the Waeco 65DZ fridge and lights etc.

                Ok so we headed off on our 7000 km trek up the east coast which included Fraser Island. Everything was working fine aux battery was charging and the battery was easily holding heaps of charge to run the fridge over night. Once we stopped for fuel so I turned the vehicle off and started fuelling up. Got back in and started off again. About 3 hours down the road I noticed that the aux battery wasn't charging which the combine switch indicates when the isolator closes contacts This switch is sitting under the steering coloum which is a little hard to see. I pulled over and tested everything which was showing normal it appeared the the isolator never closed the contacts. After getting in the car and started driving again I though about what the problem was.
                When we stopped to fill up the fridge dropped the voltage to 12.7V I think it was set at which open the contacts on the isolator. When I started the vehicle the voltage was sitting around the 13.4-13.6V as we didn't stop that long. For the contacts to close the voltage has to hit 13.7V which it never did hence why the aux battery wasn't charging. After stopping for the night I was a little concerned that I wouldn't have enough battery to run the fridge for the night as this was the 2nd or 3rd night in the trip, so I was still getting to know how long the battery would last for. We were using the Waeco as a fridge and freezer and that was set on -14. So that night I got the book out and I programmed the inter-volt isolator to close contacts at 13.4V to allow for stops while the engine was hot. After doing this I never had a problem with the battery system for the remainder of the trip.

                Sorry for the novel but I thought I would share my dual battery experience. I did option for the programmable inter-volt isolator due to the lower voltage of the 2.8 and it paid itself off.

                Cheers

                Comment


                • Most isolators have a cut in voltage of 13.3V or so. Glad you have found the right solution.

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                  • I made good use of the Traxide Isolator over the holidays and kept it busy due to the hot weather for that week, along with my need for very cold beer! We ended up driving the Prado most days, some days it was running for 1-2hrs and other days, just 45 mins.

                    Each morning I had between 12.29 – 12.38 volts at the terminals.

                    The Optima is certainly grabbing plenty of amps early on and sharing that with the cranking battery after its shut down for the day and the difference between the short and long drive was very little.

                    Our last day and night was stinking hot and due to an early departure the next day, we had to run both my Waeco CFX50 and a huge 85L EvaCool that was being used as fridge/freezer.

                    Not surprisingly in 40c heat, the power available was very low by the morning but the SC80 did exactly as it should - the AUX read 11.30v and the Cranking Battery had recovered from the 12v cut-out back up to 12.20v.

                    I have no doubt that with my DCDC, or any other standard type of isolator, that the 66ah Optima would have been well and truly dead flat by morning and the cut-out voltage would have been reached on both fridges. This type of usage is a rarity for us, but it was reassuring knowing I have that extra reserve capacity available should we need it.
                    Cheers
                    Micheal.

                    2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                    2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                    Comment


                    • Hi Michael and thanks for the feedback.

                      I can post up facts about my gear but nothing is viewed more credibly than an independent evaluation of my gear, in real world use.

                      As I have posted, a number of my isolators have been fitted to new Prados and the customers have been happy with the results.

                      But because of your use of both a DC/DC device and then one of my isolators, your findings of the use of my isolator, compered to your use of the DC/DC device, will give people a real world idea of how much better my systems work as compered to those using DC/DC devices.

                      Thanks again Michael.

                      Comment


                      • I’ve just had my car in for its 6 months service, and noted the battery charging voltage was low (ie once the car is off, the battery is only at around 12.4 – 12.6 V) and asked if there was any way to get the voltage turned up.

                        The service guy was really good, and when I picked the car up we had a long chat. He had got in touch with their electronics expert (I assume from Toyota) to discuss.

                        Summary of the discussion is that the system has been designed to only charge to the voltages I am seeing, mainly to increase battery life – ie charging the battery to a higher voltage has been shown to decrease battery life, and as it is cranking/starting battery in normal operation (ie read around town service) it doesn’t need to have lots of stored charge (unless you are having trouble starting and have to crank continuously). This also improves fuel consumption as the alternator is not generating power that would just be burnt off by heat/electrolysis in the battery.

                        It is also a highly complex system (there is a brain just for the alternator/charging system) and they are not aware of a way to alter the set points/voltages etc.

                        Obviously there are a whole lot of issues around this if you want an offroad 4WD with second battery etc, I just thought I would feedback what I was told.

                        Comment


                        • Hi LeadWings and sorry mate but your service guy has served you up a total crock of horse Do-Do.

                          The closer lead acid batteries are kept to their maximum State of Charge ( SoC ), which is 12.7v = to 100% SoC, the longer the battery will last.

                          New vehicle manufacturers are all experimenting with different voltage operations and some have been disastrous and have resulted in very sort battery life.

                          The ONLY reason there is a variable voltage operation in your vehicle is to reduce exhaust emissions and while there is also a small reduction in fuel consumption, this is nothing more than a byproduct of the main intention.

                          Also note with a rested voltage of 12.4v to 12.6v, your battery is sitting at around 80% to 95% SoC and that is pretty good.

                          Comment


                          • Is anyone using an intervolt charger in their new 150?

                            Will.

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                            • I think it's time I admit defeat with my current system for charging the batteries after they have been drained. After leaving the fridge on and the main battery draining to 12v and the auxillary to 11.2v, neither have recovered above 12.2v. i don't do a lot of driving, though i have driven numerous times for a few hours at a time. No accessories we connected so any drain while sitting in the drive should be minimal.

                              Yesterday I connected a basic 4A 2 stage charger and after almost 24 hours, I'm at 12.7v. need to monitor to confirm this is a settled voltage.

                              Driving this morning i also saw a charging voltage of 13.9, where before this, the maximum I've seen is 13.7 - mostly 13.6 or below.

                              I'm thinking solar on my roof rack is the right option to keep my batteries charged at home and on the road.

                              Comment


                              • Are you saying that you left the fridge on permanantly? If so, with little time driving i'm not surprised you eventually ran out of power.

                                Why did you take the '24hrs on a 4A charger' path, over just driving the Prado for an hour? The alternator could have brought the charge up much faster...
                                Cheers
                                Micheal.

                                2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                                2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                                Comment

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