Are all bell housing bolts resonably easy to get to?
When i took mine out i had to use to uni joints and 3 extension bars to reach the top 3 or 4 bolts.
Also like scottk said remove the transfer box first then let the gearbox tilt down to make essayer to see and reach the top bolts of the bell housing. Why take the trans box out first because of the weight. Also give's you a good opportunity to replace all the oil seal in gearbox and transfer box. Don't forget to do the rear main seal too.
Do you have a work shop manual?
Good luck
2000 95 Rv TJM Bull Bar,TJM Snorkel,TJM 2'' lift,TJM Prolocker,Dual Battery,Icom UHF,TJM Awining,16x7 Black rims,Power Shower Unit,
XRAY VISON 90W HID Spot Lights,Rhino Roof bars and more.
Rear main seal is weeping so thatl be getting changed, spigot bearing and thrust bearing and clutch also getting replaced, flywheel getting machined. To get the gearbox out i had to use a bittle jack on the chassis up under the front main pulley to tilt the engine enough so the bell housing would clear the body.
Good to hear that you got it out ok.
From memory i had to undo the front sway bar mounts to make it easier to get the gearbox back in.
Also get a clutch aligning tool.
2000 95 Rv TJM Bull Bar,TJM Snorkel,TJM 2'' lift,TJM Prolocker,Dual Battery,Icom UHF,TJM Awining,16x7 Black rims,Power Shower Unit,
XRAY VISON 90W HID Spot Lights,Rhino Roof bars and more.
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