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Tapping into High Beam Circuit for LED Lightbar/driving lights

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  • Tapping into High Beam Circuit for LED Lightbar/driving lights

    Sorry if this has already been posted but I have searched posts over the last 12 months and cannot seem to find instruction on tapping into the high beam circuit. Can anyone tell me where they tapped in and what colour the wire was that they tapped?
    Cheers............Wayne
    White 2012 GXL 150 TD Auto. Work in progress. Aiming to spend less than when I kitted out the 120!

  • #2
    At the back of the headlight, there are two wires going to the high beam globe. One is earth and the other is switched power, use a test light to work out which one is the power and tap into that.
    [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
    TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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    • #3
      I'm looking at this too, there must be something under the dash, saves running 2 wires through the firewall.

      Cheers, Nova

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      • #4
        Find the feed for the high beam light in the instrument cluster.
        Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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        • #5
          I grabbed the trigger off high beam and ran that to 85 (or 86, doesn't matter) and from the other relay trigger 86 (or 85) ran a single wire through the firewall to the switch and then to earth. Means the lights in the switch work differently but saves running in and out of the firewall with a live wire.
          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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          • #6
            I bought the narva wiring kit. It has an inline plug adapter so there's no cutting of wires.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Andyfive View Post
              I bought the narva wiring kit. It has an inline plug adapter so there's no cutting of wires.
              If they are Scotchlocks, then they aren't very reliable. Best to solder the joint.

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              • #8
                no the narva kit has a plug and play adapter.

                Plug one onto the H4 bulb and the other end plugs into oem wiring.

                I used on when wiring up my light bar on my bt-50 and worked perfectly - no scotch locks and no cutting into wires.

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                • #9
                  That would be awesome. Need to look for one of these.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Walky88 View Post
                    no the narva kit has a plug and play adapter.

                    Plug one onto the H4 bulb and the other end plugs into oem wiring.

                    I used on when wiring up my light bar on my bt-50 and worked perfectly - no scotch locks and no cutting into wires.
                    I don't think the facelift 150 has H4 bulbs... I've got a Narva kit and it doesn't look like it will install "plug & play". Looking around I think they use HB3 bulbs for high beam (and H11 for low).

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                    • #11
                      i matched the high beam plug and purchased some on ebay and made up a double adaptor - one power in with two outs - one for the light and one for the switch. then i just ran twin core through the firewall.

                      if you are planning to use a switch that lights up the green wire is the one to tap into.. i found a spare plug under the stereo that i used

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                      • #12
                        Hmmm, great idea - I was going to hack into the wiring. Instead I've ordered a HB3 extension on eBay which I should have mid week. Thanks for the tip!

                        If you're looking for one search for "HB3 socket". If you aren't in a hurry there are some from Hong Kong for $3.50 otherwise an Aussie seller has them for $11.99 (2 days vs 2 1/2-4 weeks)

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by amts View Post
                          If they are Scotchlocks, then they aren't very reliable. Best to solder the joint.
                          It's plug and play. No scotch locks. The narva kit comes with two adapters.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Andyfive View Post
                            It's plug and play. No scotch locks. The narva kit comes with two adapters.
                            Pictures please

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                            • #15
                              If you have used the H4 connection and you have the HB3 left over, I'd be keen to throw a few $ your way for postage. I'm wiring Cibie Oscar and LED Lightbar but trying not to cut into the factory harness. Open to suggestions.

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