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Our deep cycle battery lives in the trailer with cable running from car battery through circuit breaker to the 50a Anderson Plug on the tow bar. Do I need to wire to the solar input on CTek 205s Dual or leave it connected to alternator connection? I've been told both but no one has actually tried it so far and I'll be wiring the plug in this weekend. Happy to move the wire on the charger if I have to. Has anyone here done this and if you have, what works?
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The last I heard the latest 150 have a slightly higher charge rate than the previous
ones?
Cheers
LeighHKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and othersComment
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Any suggestion if it is a different alternator to the earlier 150s or is it just a tweak in one of the ECUs?Originally posted by LeighW View Post
S155 SX with dual battery and Polyairs in the rear springs..Comment
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Hi All,
I have a 2014 update diesel Prado and use the Ctek charger. Ctek advise that due to the low voltage to connect the Alternator to the solar terminal of the charger. If you wish to also use a Solar panel you run a relay the connects the alternator when the engine is running (ignition on) and disconnects the alternator when the engine is turned off and connects the solar panel. I have had no issues with the set up in the 12 months it has been in use and have not boosted the alternator output. The biggest issue is where to mount the Ctek charger. It is currently mounted on a homemade bracket near the brake master cylinder and have had no issues with it de-rating due to temperature.Steve
Black 2014 GX, ARB roof rack, OME Suspension, TJM Bull BarComment
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The alternator as far as I'm aware isn't controlled by your Ecu. Mine is 2014 will run 13.8 when cold then 13.6 from there on until you turn the car off, they are not load sensed like other makes of vehicleOriginally posted by sweetpea View PostComment
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Leigh,Originally posted by LeighW View Post
Can you take a look at this photo to confirm this is the same as the 120 ALT-S fuse location, thanks.
Micheal.
Cheers
Micheal.
2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...Comment
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The normal ALT-S fuse is not there, without testing I can not say. I don't have a
service manual either for the latest units.
I'll reply to your email and discuss.HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and othersComment
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This is where I mounted my CTEK, and no trubs even with a big central trip. Use big washers and nylocks. Upgrade the battery terminals with good quality brass items, and you can see the Anderson connector for solar I/p to the CTEK next to the OEM fuel filter. Got a fuel manager as well since the photo.Originally posted by Black 120 GX View PostAttached FilesComment
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What did you end up doing Skinny? I'm not sure why you would need to wire the starter/alternator to the solar input if you have the current 1GD/2.8, which seems to pretty much constantly put out 13.7-13.8v. This is well above what the ctek needs, according to the manual ...Originally posted by Skinny666 View Post
The charger starts charging the target battery when the supply voltage exceeds 13.1V for 5 sec (engine on).
The charger stops charging the target battery when the supply voltage drops below 12.8V for 10 sec (engine off).Comment
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