King/Bilstein 2" lift - group buy

[Kieron Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Kieron]

Fitted the kit on Tuesday, and got the wheel alignment today.

When removing the front susspension; we found that unbolting the Sway bar from the LCA on both sides of the vehicle helped with the removal.

Feels great and handles well. Going for test run out to the BribieIsland tracks on Saturday

[Auscanclan Member Find all posts View Profile Close Auscanclan]

Hello fellow group buyers,

Got the new bits fitted 2/7 ago.

Didn't get height numbers but good height

Ride is great. Just fits in garage by about 5mm.

Will try to get pics if I can figure out how to bo it

Once again thank you AMTS for putting this together

Pierre

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

AMTS - Thank you for the goods and advice. Car handles soo much better. Its doesn't feel like its going to tip when turning and feels move solid. The ride is still smooth with the HD's on the front

Here are my results
Results after 2" lift

__________Front__ Droop__ Rear___ Droop
Passenger +60mm +10mm +55mm +20mm
Driver ___+65mm +20mm +60mm +25mm

[Guest Close Guest]

Here are my results
Results after 2" lift

__________Front__ Droop__ Rear___ Droop
Passenger +60mm +10mm +55mm +20mm
Driver ___+65mm +20mm +60mm +25mm

A bit concerned about your droop measurements. How did you come up with the droop measurements?

Edit: worked it out from your other post http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post524457

What position is the circlip?

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

Circlips are in the middle.

I was thinking of getting the fornt diff drop box to bring the cvs back in to a factor angle

[Guest Close Guest]

Circlips are in the middle.

I was thinking of getting the fornt diff drop box to bring the cvs back in to a factor angle

The circlip really needs to be at the bottom position in order to have a safe amount of droop.

Let me know if you need a diff drop.

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

Crap. I'm gonna need some spring compressors to be able to get to the circlip.

[Guest Close Guest]

Crap. I'm gonna need some spring compressors to be able to get to the circlip.

You do know that there is a simple method that doesn't need spring compressors...
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ade-for-Grande

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

Cheers for that.

Im planing on doing this today and I have questions.

Will the circlip change fix my droop issue? Will I need a wheel alignment right after the change or can I go without for a week. Will it also improve my cv angle?

Installing a diif drop box will help my cv angle, but will it help my droop issue too? Does it also lower the cars height or bring thr diff closer to to ground?

I'll be also be getting the adjustable UCA as we have too much positive (+2) when its ment to be neg 1-2.

[Guest Close Guest]

Lowering the circlip position will improve the droop and CV angles. You will need an alignment about a week after the adjustment just to allow for a bit of settling. But can also be done straight after.

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

Thanks amts. Here are your steps (modified) I'm expecting to do. please let me know if I'm missing anything

1. Jack up and place jack stands on the chassis (under front doors).
2. Remove both wheels.
3. Maybe - Remove sway bar link. Loosen sway bar mount on the chassis or remove it altogether. (remove bashplates if you are removing the swaybar entirely)
4. Jack up on the lower control arm (LCA) until the jack takes the weight.
5. Remove lower strut nut (do not turn the lower strut bolt as this will damage the screw thread).
6. Remove 2 bolts on the LCA (the ones either side of the castle nut).
7. Loosen the cam bolts on the LCA paying attention not to move the cam as this is the alignment adjustment for camber (if it moves a bit, it doesn't matter as you will need an alignment anyway).
8. Now lower the jack and the strut will separate from the spring.
9. Once the strut is fully extended, remove the bottom strut bolt and the strut and spring is now free.
10. Change circlip to lower position
11. slowly jack up the LCA. As you do this the spring will compress.
12. Jack up until the jack takes all the weight.
13. Replace the 2 bolts on the bottom of the LCA.
14. Tighten up the cam bolts.
15. Tighten up the lower strut bolt and nut.
16. Lower jack and remove (REMEMBER: steps must be completed with the jack taking all the weight or the bushes will wear out prematurely)
17. Once both sides are done, replace sway bar (Maybe).
18. Put wheels back on.
19. Go for a test drive and re-torque wheel nuts.
20. Once suspension height has settled, go for an alignment.

[Guest Close Guest]

After step 5, remove strut top nut.
You may also choose to pass a strap through the coil and up to the strut tower so that the spring is held in place by the strap while the shock is lowered. This way, the spring stays put.

At step 11, as you jack up, feed the stud at the top of the strut through the top hat, then reinstall the strut top nut.

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

I have dropped the spring seat from the middle location to the bottom a few days ago. I just checked the droop and they are the same measurements. The only thing that changes is the height.

The height now is
Front left 795mm
Front right 805mm

[kjoy064 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close kjoy064]

Wonder if this is happening again soon ish?

[ToeEdge Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close ToeEdge]

I'm considering going for this set up... even if there are no more group buys.
Are the HD's too stiff for a Sovereign bar alone? My plan is to fit a winch, but not just yet, so I'm thinking of running the HD's straight up so I can add weight later without having to replace springs again.