2008 1kd-fte: P0046 Boost Control Solenoid Circuit 1 Failure

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

Hi everyone - looking for a little help here.

I went for a spirited drive through water and mud and everything was OK - parked the car up for a couple of days, and when I came back to it, I got a check engine light and 0 power as soon as I started the engine.

I borrowed a Scangauge and got error P0046
I bought a Haynes workshop manual, which says this means Boost Control Solenoid Circuit 1 Failure.
But now I don't know what to do. I've looked through the turbo stuff in the book, and there's no mention of a boost control solenoid. It's also not in the index, nor does the page with the error codes give you relevant page numbers.

I have pulled the airbox out to access the turbo, and I can see what appears to be a solenoid with 2 electrical plugs. I can't get the plugs off.

Is this the right thing to look at?
Is it safe to remove?
How do I remove it?

or

What should I be looking at instead of that?

Wut do?

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Try removing the code with the scan gauge and restart the motor. Sounds like a moist plug.

Remove any electrical plug, be carful with the clips and spray with WD 40 and compressed air.

Rusty.

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

I should have mentioned that I'd tried clearing the code, and it came back in less than 2 seconds each time.

Now, it is the plugs on the thing attached to the turbo that I should be looking at? I haven't figured out how to undo them. There doesn't seem to be any play, and I can't feel a tab that I should be pushing it to release them.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

You could try drowning the connectors with WD40 and trying again.

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

Righto, I'll pick some up tomorrow.

The electronics on top of the turbo is definitely what I'm supposed to be looking at, right?

[SWR Banned Find all posts View Profile Close SWR]

Gday Magilla

A quick simple test tip!

If you look at the turbo from under the rig (underneath the rig behind the drivers wheel) you should see a rod that is connected to the stepper motor.

Whilst looking at this rod get someone to turn ignition on (Engine NOT running) (Rig in neutral or park with handbrake on so rig wont move or crush anyone!).

By turning the ignition on without starting the engine (Wait about a second or two then turn ignition off and you should see this move open and close.

If this rod does not move then either the rod has seized (More than likely has) or the stepper motor is at fault!

Some how you need to spray some WD40 on the actuating rod (Will burn off when engine starts) and try to wriggle the rod as I'm sure will be fine once it breaks free as is probable surface rust that has grabbed and is loading the stepper motor.

Should hear i slight winning noise with ignition on (Engine NOT running) then when you turn the ignition off you should see the actuating rod open then close.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Your looking in the correct area.

DESCRIPTION
Variable nozzle vane type turbocharger consists primarily of a compressor wheel, turbine wheel, nozzle vane, unison ring, DC motor and nozzle vane position sensor.
The ECM outputs a signal to the turbo motor driver, which actuates the DC motor, to control the nozzle vane position.

DTC No. P0046

DTC detection condition:

Either of following conditions met:

DC motor duty ratio +/- 100% for 1.3 seconds or more

DC motor current 2.2 A or more for 5 seconds or more when motor driving
(1 trip detection logic)

Trouble area:
DC Motor (Turbocharger sub-assembly)

Turbo Motor Driver


First.


Turn the ignition switch on.
Turn the ignition switch OFF and check the DC motor operation.
When ignition switch is turned OFF, operation link moves as shown in A to D in illustration below.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

If no good.

Disconnect the T10 DC motor connector.

Measure the resistance of the DC motor.

Standard resistance:
Tester Connection
Specified Condition
M+ (1) - M- (2)
1 to 100 Ω

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

Fantastic. Hopefully I can get under there tomorrow and have a look. Thanks!

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

Your looking in the correct area.

Turn the ignition switch on.
Turn the ignition switch OFF and check the DC motor operation.
When ignition switch is turned OFF, operation link moves as shown in A to D in illustration below.

Right, here's what I'm looking at:


I assume that (a) is the solenoid/stepper motor in question, that spins to move control rod (b) up and down, in turn lifting arm (c).

Should this control system move freely? I have been unable to force up and down movement in (b), and it doesn't move when cycle the ignition.

I've WD40'd the general vicinity.

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

Also, does anyone know which fuse would be the one that the solenoid is on?

Edit: For future reference, it's on fuse EFI #2

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

If no good.

Disconnect the T10 DC motor connector.

Measure the resistance of the DC motor.

Standard resistance:
Tester Connection
Specified Condition
M+ (1) - M- (2)
1 to 100 Ω

2.8Ω, as measured from the Turbo Motor Controller plug (pins 5 and 12), because I can't see into the plug itself to use the multimeter on it directly.

What should I do next?

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Disconnect the T10 DC motor connector.

Disconnect the T8 turbo motor drive connector.

Measure the resistance of the wire harness side connector.



Standard resistance (Check for open):
Tester Connections
Specified Conditions
M+ (T8-12) - M+ (T10-2)
Below 1 Ω
M- (T8-5) - M- (T10-1)
Below 1 Ω
Standard resistance (Check for short):
Tester Connections
Specified Conditions
M+ (T8-12) or M+ (T10-2) - Body ground
10 kΩ or higher
M- (T8-5) or M- (T10-1) - Body ground
10 kΩ or higher

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Check for other dtc's & Check for intermittent problems

Intelligent tester only:
Inspect the vehicle's ECM using check mode. Intermittent problems are easier to detect with an intelligent tester when the ECM is in check mode. In check mode, the ECM uses 1trip detection logic, which is more sensitive to malfunctions than normal mode (default), which uses 2 trip detection logic.
Clear DTCs
Switch the ECM from normal mode to check mode using an intelligent tester
Perform a simulation test.
Check and wiggle the harness(es), connector(s) and terminal(s).

[Magilla Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Magilla]

I've tested both cables to the boost controller solenoid - no shorts, no earth. I now have a mechanic coming around to investigate further. Thanks for your help.