Overboosting

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Gday Muzaki

I can't find on my car is the swirl flaps. Is that on newer models

This is correct as yours does not have swirl flaps and also does not have the vacuum operated engine mounts but does have the hard rubber engine mounts!

I can post a picture of my engine compartment if that helps? Since there can be differences between EU and AU models ?

This would help allot as there is big differences in engine metrics and configurations.

A pic of the Heat exchange bolting to the front of the cylinder head where the two 10mm bolts are so it can be confirmed we are looking at the correct part of the engine

Once i am convinced that we are on the same page then we have to rule out that the vacuum solenoids (SCV & VSV) are connected and operating properly but as you have explained you have confirmed that the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)/SVC (Suction Vacuum Control)/VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) and vacuum pump are all working ok?

When looking at your boost gauge it responds very quickly (Faster than what i would call normal) and fly"s to just under 20.5psi (Should be approx 14psi max with the odd spike to 18-20 on very cold days + High altitudes).

Vacuum line for the boost gauge needs to be connected directly to the intake manifold before any of the switching valves.

Example: Follow the MAP line past the delay valve canister (Fuel trap) & T into there as it goes directly into the Housing where the direct manifold pressure is after the throttle shut-off valve is so you will get absolute manifold pressure.

ALSO! In the second picture you definitely removed this from the engine and where this heat exchange connects directly to the cylinder head there is no restriction of any plate or anything at all on the cylinder head side?

I am still convinced that the boost is not dumping properly but under the impression that the mechanics are working properly?

Do you have a performance chip/Module fitted that might be interfering with the boost readings?

My vacuum runs like this: fom the pump, to a switch under the intake manifold,

Switch is a SVC (Suction Vacuum Control)

to a filter,

I believe This is a one-way valve so can only suck towards the vacuume pump.

then to the egr valve then from the egr valve to a blue switch.

This is your VSV (VACUUM Switching Valve).

I think that's correct, but i don't know why there are two switches (valves)

One valve provides vacumm to open the EGR valve then when that one closes the other opens and dumps the vacuum so that the EGR valve can close!

ALSO!

After the 2 x Switching solenoids (Don't know which is which as i only have a very primitive Black/White diagram) a vacuum line goes directly to another vacuum canister which is a delay valve to stop vacuum pulses and a snapping response directly from the intake manifold.

The "boost lines" goes from the intake manifold, to a filter,

You should have your boost gauge connected to the line that goes directly to the intake manifold and before the delay valve.

the to a red switch (valve) then to the MAP sensor. Im not sure whate the red one does either.

I believe this is the valve that monitors the manifold pressure!....... i can't explain exactly as would need a visual as diagram i am looking at is not that explanatory?

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Hi.

Its not chipped.

Here is the entire engine compartement.

I know we are talking about the same pipe. Bolted to the front, under water hose, behind the powersteering fluid.
Here is where its boltet on another cylinder head

I dont have any vacum canister after the blue valve. (the one who is connected to the top pipe at the EGR) in the back its blocked.

I have connected the boost gauge right after the manifold pipe.

The way I have tried to se if the valves work, is to borrow them from another 90, that doesnt have this problem. But I was thinking maybe he wont experience it because he has a manuel drive?

How can i test all the valves to se that they are operating as the should?

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Well, I found a manual, and is trying to check everyting step by step. I dont have any hand held tester, so i cant do everything, but there are steps for people without testers.

I'm trying to test E-VRV and found something wrong.

See picture:

It says that when its OFF air should travel from E through Air Filter, and when its ON it should travel from E to F

When I try this, it flows from E to both Air Filter and F even if its on or off.

I tried the vacuum test, and the resistance test, and it passes. Is this where my problem is? Can anyone verify the test on their vehicle, and even verify that the vacuum pump is connected to the outer (F) and EGR to the inner (E)

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Gday Muzaki

Can you take a pictures of the 2 x switching Vacuum solenoids at the top of the EGR valve and the 1 x that is below the EGR valve.

Also make sure you get a picture of the vacuum hoses on the actual EGR vacuum canister.

It says that when its OFF air should travel from E through Air Filter, and when its ON it should travel from E to F

When I try this, it flows from E to both Air Filter and F even if its on or off.

does not look good if that is the test for that particular Solenoid as there is 3 x vacuum switching solenoids but also have to remember that solinoids react different if using airline blower instaed of vacuum!

Is this for the main vacuum supply at the solenoid below the EGR?

I don't have any vacuum canister after the blue valve. (the one who is connected to the top pipe at the EGR) in the back its blocked.

For starters that hose is the main vacuum supply and should have a one way valve on it and if i am correct this blue valve sits below the EGR valve!

You definitely have the vacuum hoses set up wrong as there has to be 2 x hoses on the EGR valve canister housing for it to open and close properly as the EGR Vacuum canister is an open canister and rely's on the switching of all 3 x solenoids in order to make the EGR valve operate open and closed properly.

I personally think that the EGR valve is not opening and it is causing the engine boost to go way too high and the ECU has recognized this and is causing the veins on the variable turbo to slam shut to try and slow the turbo down due to access boost.

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Hi

The valve under the manifold, is connected between vacumpump and EGR valve. This one is OK when i check it with an ohm meter, and when i apply vacum on the outer inlet (to the vacum pump) the other test is to apply air to the inner inlet. This is the one connected to the EGR. it is failing this test. But Im not shure if i did the test right.

I took some pictures of the valves. The blue one is altso connected to EGR.

Another question: How important is the Water Temp Sensor. I dont have the original, but one from an old 2LT engine. It shows the same values on the temp-meter.

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Gday Muzaki

First things first! .. Your turbo vacuum hose for the boost gauge is T'd in on the wrong spot?

It should be T'd in directly onto the inlet manifold "Before" the delay valve and not downstream of the MAP solenoid?

Note: This is not why you are are having trouble with your boost!

The brown solenoid is for the MAP sensor!

The Blue solenoid works in tandem with the other solenoid under the manifold that controls your vacuum to open and close the EGR valve for both turbo boost as well as the typical EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation).

This one is OK when i check it with an ohm meter

The ohm meter will only confirm that the solenoid is not burnt out/Shorting but it will not confirm if the solenoid is opening or closing or stuck open/closed?

when i apply vacuum on the outer inlet (to the vacuum pump) the other test is to apply air to the inner inlet. This is the one connected to the EGR. it is failing this test.

When the solenoid is activated (Power on) and air is added to port "E" There should not be any air coming from the filter but should be coming from port "F"

When the solenoid is DE-Activated (Power Off) and air is added to port "E" There should not be air coming from the "F" port but should be coming from the filter.

NOTE: I do not have the information for checking the 3 x vacuum switching solenoids so can only go off the information that you are providing to me!

I took some pictures of the valves. The blue one is also connected to EGR.

This is correct as they both work in tandem to each other in order to open and close the EGR valve!

How important is the Water Temp Sensor. I don't have the original, but one from an old 2LT engine. It shows the same values on the temp-meter.

It is important as it tells the ECU if engine is hot or cold and will adjust fuel/ EGR/ Boost/ Idle but i personally think this is not your problem given that it runs the same values ... If it was faulty it would probably have conflicts with the MAF sensor/ Fuel sensor and get dodgy readings from the engine temp gauge!

Note: Just had a second look at pictures and noticed that the filter/baffle has been snapped off the blue switching solenoid?.. could cause problems (Suck in loose debris) but more chance of being noisy.

The valve under the manifold, is connected between vacumpump and EGR valve.

So there is definitely 2 x hoses connected to the SVC (Suction Vacuum Control)?.. As the pic only shows one vacuum hose connected?

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The filter one the blue valve snapped off after i started the diagnostic, so It was ok when the problems started.

When I took picture of the valve under the manifold i had disconnected the original vacum lines, and was diagnosting by blowing air into E..

But since it holds vacum from F but leaks air from F, could that be my problem?
I have to try and se if it holds vacum from E to EGR when i turn it on. Should i ground it from ECU, or kan i apply 12v directy to test it?

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Gday Muzaki

it holds vacuum from F but leaks air from F, could that be my problem?

If you are doing the test as the manual says then yes!... If proper tests are not carried out to confirm faulty solenoids then you will not fined the problem!

If the solenoid is not able to hold vacuum or switch the vacuum on or off then the EGR valve will not open.

I have to try and se if it holds vacum from E to EGR when i turn it on.

It will not work that way as the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) controls both of the solenoids to open and close the EGR valve (They work in tandem together) based on what information the ECU receives from the numerous engine sensors.

REASON: When vacuum is provided from lower solenoid (One below the manifold) The upper solenoid has to close so that the vacuum opens the EGR valve and then when the EGR valve has to be closed the lower solenoid shuts off the vacuum supply and the upper solenoid dumps the vacuum so that the EGR valve will close!

Should i ground it from ECU, or kan i apply 12v directy to test it?

If the solenoids operate on 12v then yes you can apply 12v directly but i don't have a wiring diagram so you would need to confirm this by checking with a multimeter. (Ohms meter) first.

All 3 x solenoids have to be separately checked because if one fails then the complete mechanical system will fail.

Note: I do think that you have a faulty solenoid but you have to confirm which one is faulty?

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Hello.
Sorry but I have not had time to troubleshoot the vehicle. The only thing I have tested is to replace MAF but it made no difference.

I have now bought a MINI VCI so that I can see the values.

I can not find anything wrong and turbo-stepper motor which it claims is wrong moves normally.

I stand still left with the question of EGR-CUT (E-VRV) is functioning normally.

I had very varying vacuum values earlier, but now I took a little WD-40 in it, took some tests so that it would open and close. Now it seems that the vacuum has stabilized, and turbo pressure has also stabilized. Now it remains to see if the error was so easy to fix ...

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well, it doesn't seem to be that easy. I have tried WD40 in E-VRV but it doesn't help. The outside temperature is now about 0 - 10 degrees Celsius, so it doesn't go into limp mode as easy as it does at -20C, but it still hesitate, an if I floor it, it blows black smoke.
Another thing, can it be my airfilter? Can a clogged air filter cause the turbo to spin up to much to deliver air, so that it can cause overboost? I have been so focused on everything else so I haven't done any regular maintenance... or am I still lost?

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Freeze-frame from my last error

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I have finally solved my problem. I replaced injectors an everything have been fine since then. I havent updatet until now because I wanted to be sure.
My problem was the two front injectors. Expensive, but worth it now