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Gutless Wonder strikes again! Not quite the same issue.

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  • Gutless Wonder strikes again! Not quite the same issue.

    For those who want a catch up... http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...Gutless-wonder

    Long story short.

    Car ran like crap for a long time with VERY high fuel usage.

    1st, replaced the usual filters during a service... oil (obviously) air and fuel
    2nd replaced plugs (correct ones) and leads

    No change

    3rd, after noticing detonation I stripped down the intake manifold completely, all the way down to the inlets. I scrubbed and cleaned and even polished the vast majority of it. (I was keen I know!)

    4th, repaired the broken knock sensor harness (You should really check yours, it's a known problem)

    Noticed some improvement.

    5th, added water injection.

    Noticed fuel economy improvement.

    6th replaced timing belt, pulley, tensioner and water pump. Also hydraulic tensioner (never again!) radiator hoses and accessory belts. Upon replacing the timing belt I noticed that the belt was so far out of alignment it wasn't funny. With the cams at TDC, my crank was about 27 degrees advanced. This would mean that with the crank at TDC, my cams were 27 degrees retarded right?

    MASSIVE improvement. Infact, I daresay problem solved. Or so I thought.

    Since cleaning the intake and throttle body, I will now get a check engine light the moment I put the car under some reasonable load. If I putter about and never give it any beans, all runs smooth. The moment I ask for the extra power I've just restored, the CEL comes on, and my power goes away and I'm back to the Gutless Wonder. Next start up, CEL is gone until I ask for that power again.

    The codes I get are 41 (Throttle Position Sensor signal) and 52 (Knock sensor signal, not sure which bank)

    I've cleared the codes and disconnected the knock sensors. Problem still occurs. Am about to go check and clear the codes again, then test drive. Report back shortly.

    Yes, I did remove the TPS from the throttle body, checked for free movement and then reinstalled. I think I will pull it off again also and verify. I was extremely tired (for those of you that recall the thread... I was up ALL night working on it) but I'm very confident I didn't use any cleaning agents on it. Only a wipe off with a rag before reinstallation.

    I would really appreciate it if someone could grab a multimeter and measure the voltage with ignition ON engine OFF between pins 1&2, 1&3 and the resistance between 1&2 and 1&3 and then repeat the process with the engine running at normal idle (let it start and settle down to it's normal revs) and let me know what those revs were.

    Even better yet, if someone happens to have the testing specs from Toyota of that TPS....

  • #2
    We have had problems with cars like that..
    Ie in some "cars" you cant clean the surface of the intake/throttle body otherwise the TPS fault comes up and the car goes to limp mode..
    In some cars it was simply the TPS needed replacing
    Did you replace the TPS??

    Comment


    • #3
      Would an engine ECU reset help?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Green dog View Post
        We have had problems with cars like that..
        Ie in some "cars" you cant clean the surface of the intake/throttle body otherwise the TPS fault comes up and the car goes to limp mode..
        In some cars it was simply the TPS needed replacing
        Did you replace the TPS??
        Well, it's not going into limp mode, it shifts just fine and will rev right out, just with reduced power. No, didn't replace the TPS. This one was working fine before I touched it :roll: .... me and my bright ideas! lol

        Originally posted by amts View Post
        Would an engine ECU reset help?
        Would love it if it was that simple. But to clear the codes you pull the battery or pull the fuse for the ECU... so unfortunately, you reset the ECU everytime you clear the codes. But the fault comes back.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi RanJ I have a Toyota Manual for the 5VZ engine if that is what yours is. It gives resistance as follows
          term VTA-E2 0.28-6.4 kohm with no clearance between lever and stop
          term VTA-E2 2.0-11.6 kohm with throttle valve fully open
          term VC-E2 2.7-7.7 kohm with throttle valve fully open
          seems a large range to me. It also mentions about putting vacuum onto opener to operate throttle opener.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks mate! Thats magical! Off to check it I go!

            Comment


            • #7
              Any chance you could tell me which pin is which? Pin A and PinC? I'm getting varying results from all of them.

              Even wire colours would be good.

              Comment


              • #8
                Scratch that... Finally managed a few minutes to clear the codes and go for a test run


                52 and 55. Knock sensor signal faults. Same codes as before I disconnected the knock sensor harness.

                Hmm looks like my knock sensor harness repair was not as successful as I thought.

                Time to review the matter.

                Comment

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