same thing happened to my diff but went with standard diff ratios. Mines 4.1 stock. (1KZ Diesel + 5spd manual) Still need to find time to rebuild the diff tho, I took the whole axle out to paint and clean thoroughly - there was so much swarf stuck in the little crevices I wasnt going to risk it.
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Razorback81 not sure on those but i know at 110kp/h I'm around 2100-2200 RPM
ejukated yup always better to spend the extra time in prep work.
My diff's have been a constant headache. the front did 10,000k's since the new air locker centre & gears then wast pulled out due to noise & air leaks.
long story short whole new front diff centre, & bearings AGAIN.
the rear was pulled at the same time and needed new flange cap, manifold, seals.
and next week the rear is coming out for a 3rd time. its still leaking air after being rebuilt.
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Anyway onto happy news.
Upper Control Arms
People fitting Blackhawk UCA's have used the Hilux versions without any reported issues. However i found they had Prado specific ones (different outer ball joint) in the works.
They arrived at the end of January so i got to work quickly so i could run them at Cruiser park during the Australia day long weekend.
I pulled the old ones out
and fitted up the new
fairly easy job really. Most painfull thing is removing both batteries (if dual are fitted) in order to remove the long pivit bolt.
Ended up with heaps more room between the UCA and tyre sidewall and my camber alignment is perfect again.
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Originally posted by HugoStiglitz View PostRazorback81 not sure on those but i know at 110kp/h I'm around 2100-2200 RPM
ejukated yup always better to spend the extra time in prep work.
My diff's have been a constant headache. the front did 10,000k's since the new air locker centre & gears then wast pulled out due to noise & air leaks.
long story short whole new front diff centre, & bearings AGAIN.
the rear was pulled at the same time and needed new flange cap, manifold, seals.
and next week the rear is coming out for a 3rd time. its still leaking air after being rebuilt.
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Thanks ejukated,
yeah pretty happy with them so far.
i have the centre sitting at home.
Bearings failed causing the o-rings to leak.
the issue was the thrust washers were not available anywhere in Australia.
and i couldn't be without the car for 8-10 weeks waiting on parts. so another new centre.
ARB has ordered in the parts to repair and then i'll look to sell it 2nd hand.
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Originally posted by HugoStiglitz View PostThanks ejukated,
yeah pretty happy with them so far.
i have the centre sitting at home.
Bearings failed causing the o-rings to leak.
the issue was the thrust washers were not available anywhere in Australia.
and i couldn't be without the car for 8-10 weeks waiting on parts. so another new centre.
ARB has ordered in the parts to repair and then i'll look to sell it 2nd hand.
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Originally posted by ejukated View Post
Ah damn, let me know what you're after for the locker - I'd be interested in the front one
Stuck with the air lockers. I had zero issues until I blew the rear up.
rear ended up being a manufacturing issue with the Oring being undersized so ARB fixed for free.
I bet i have the cleanest diff there is. Its had 3 complete oil changes in 2 months.
My Fuel Economy did not noticeably change when changing diff ratio. I think what I lost in higher RPM I gained as it now sits at the correct RPM for economy.
Around town is 12.5 - 13 L/100k
Towing is 14-15
I don't usually do highway unless i'm towing.
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I totally forgot about it.
I went to the effort of removing and repainting my bullbar. The factory finish on the ARB bar was starting to crack and had alot of "crows feet" in it. Before the bar went totally to crap I decided to pull it off and send it off to be sandblasted and re-powder coated.
step 1 was remove the bar.
with all the accessories to remove don't underestimate this job. winch, water pump, mixer valve, isolator switch, spotlight & light bar wiring and probably worst of all is the UHF as you need to remove it from the back of the head unit and pull it back through the whole vheicle.
then as there was some bolts that could not be removed and just hung out there pointing forwards like some type of jousting stick I decided to put on a temporary bar.
then about a 3 week wait while it was being blasted, primed and powder coated.
There was a lot of time spent deciding on if I get it colour matched or just satin black. Happy with the decision in the end.
I also got the winch fairlead and hook powder coated in red. I rattle canned the winch solenoid cover which I may later remove and have powder coated also.
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Have enjoyed reading your build, great job.
I am looking to fit arb bash plates to my Prado. How have yours performed? Would you buy ARB again or another brand?2009 Prado 120 D4D, Silver, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, IPFXS, Safari snorkel, diff breathers, OME, GME UHF, Warn Winch, ARB portable compressor, OEM Towbar, Tekonsha brake controller, tinted windows
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Originally posted by Roksy18 View PostHave enjoyed reading your build, great job.
I am looking to fit arb bash plates to my Prado. How have yours performed? Would you buy ARB again or another brand?
Mine now are defiantly VERY bashed, bent and bruised. I can't fault the job they have done.
If I was to replace however I might look for a kit that is diff drop compatible.
However if I can just buy that forward most plate then maybe i'd just replace that section.Last edited by HugoStiglitz; 22-05-2018, 11:21 AM.
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Well with the trusty rig hitting the 210,000k mark i decided it was time to replace the injectors.
they had become a little rattly over the last 6 months. although the feedback readings were still ok (worst was -3.0)
As I live in SE-QLD i had the guys at Just Autos do the work and got it Dyno tuned at the same time.
Pretty happy with the results. almost 30% increase in HP
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Oh I forgot one.
Recently i noticed my inner guard starting to crack on the passenger side.
so with a search through this forum i found the part numbers and ordered the bits needed.
Part Numbers i used
5373460050 - Patch FL Fender - from local Toyota dealer as it wasn't available anywhere else
5373160071 - Patch FR Fender - from partsouq
5373360040 - Patch, Front Fender Apron - from partsouq
5373260060 - Patch, Front Fender Apron
i also ended up using M6x10mm bolts, with a washer on each side and a nylock nut.
you will need around 70 to complete both sides (double the washers)
First we cleaned up the crack and welded it back up.
after the outer guard was removed i found there was also a crack near the A pillar
this got some attention also. cleaned up then welded
with that done it was time to place the first plate in its location. Mark and drill the holes.
I suggest drilling 2-3 at a time, then re-fit the plate put the bolts through and then mark the next ones.
then give them an undercoat spray and touch up before bolting in the plate.
the large plate in the actual wheel well is defiantly the harder of the two to fit.
Last edited by HugoStiglitz; 07-02-2019, 11:19 AM.
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