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  • #16
    Yeah, the $250 price I paid will increase to approx. $280 next time around due to the higher price of the Toyota fluid they told me, which I still think is a great price as it does include a complete flush. The most expensive quote I had from another local workshop was over $500 for the exact same thing...!

    It was done by the guys at Goodyear Service Centre at Castle Hill (first time I had been there) so I doubt there was only one mechanic in the workshop.
    Yes they did use a cork gasket, which I have no problem with at all. Can't really see a benefit in using a rubber gasket instead as there's no great pressure in the pan itself ( at least that my understanding ) so cork should be fine. The gasket came with the repco service kit which also included the filter they used.

    Very happy with the job they did so I would go there again. How many workshops would just throw in a standard spec oil and be done with...?
    Here in Sydney I would have to say quite a few, so I am glad that these guys used the recommended fluid.
    2009 150 GXL V6 Auto. Ironman deluxe bullbar, uniden uhf, ironman awning, roof mounted solar panel, softdog suspension, adjustable upper control arms, lightforce 240 spotlights, 265/70/17 Hancook Dynapro's, Sidewinder dual battery system, Maxtrax, Engel fridge, ARB draw system, Ironman Snorkel, Roadsafe Recovery Points, 80 watt Solar Panel.
    CUB Supavan Stockman camper.

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    • #17
      I am having mine done next week. This will include dropping the sump and flushing out all the old fluid before reassemble and adding new Toyota fluid. I have been estimated about $150 for the fluid and up to 2 hours labour - so about $350.
      Terry
      Canberra
      2008 Prado 120 D4D and 2010 Jayco Swan Outback

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      • #18
        I don't like cork gaskets as they all eventually seem to seep. Toyota don't use rubber gasket they use a silicone sealant . I've had a price today from a bloke I know so I'll go with him and he uses sealant. He's a bit dearer bit I'd prefer the proper sealant over cork.... Cheers Steve
        Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

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        • #19
          Originally posted by OldGreyFart View Post
          I am having mine done next week. This will include dropping the sump and flushing out all the old fluid before reassemble and adding new Toyota fluid. I have been estimated about $150 for the fluid and up to 2 hours labour - so about $350.
          Still sounds like a fair price to me, just make sure they do a proper flush of the entire system, not just wash out the pan.
          Again, I was really surprised at the condition of the old fluid after 60000 Kms.
          2009 150 GXL V6 Auto. Ironman deluxe bullbar, uniden uhf, ironman awning, roof mounted solar panel, softdog suspension, adjustable upper control arms, lightforce 240 spotlights, 265/70/17 Hancook Dynapro's, Sidewinder dual battery system, Maxtrax, Engel fridge, ARB draw system, Ironman Snorkel, Roadsafe Recovery Points, 80 watt Solar Panel.
          CUB Supavan Stockman camper.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Steve M View Post
            I don't like cork gaskets as they all eventually seem to seep. Toyota don't use rubber gasket they use a silicone sealant . I've had a price today from a bloke I know so I'll go with him and he uses sealant. He's a bit dearer bit I'd prefer the proper sealant over cork.... Cheers Steve
            Fair enough.
            2009 150 GXL V6 Auto. Ironman deluxe bullbar, uniden uhf, ironman awning, roof mounted solar panel, softdog suspension, adjustable upper control arms, lightforce 240 spotlights, 265/70/17 Hancook Dynapro's, Sidewinder dual battery system, Maxtrax, Engel fridge, ARB draw system, Ironman Snorkel, Roadsafe Recovery Points, 80 watt Solar Panel.
            CUB Supavan Stockman camper.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Steve M View Post
              I don't like cork gaskets as they all eventually seem to seep. Toyota don't use rubber gasket they use a silicone sealant . I've had a price today from a bloke I know so I'll go with him and he uses sealant. He's a bit dearer bit I'd prefer the proper sealant over cork.... Cheers Steve
              They are not as bad as the old ones, 3 speed Borg 35's lol...... Soak it up & leak like a siv, swell, then gasket slips & all the oil pisses out everywhere. Old crummydores & you know heaps others were similar.
              For a long time o.e manufacturers have been using anything but cork.
              Not sure why Repco use cork, but I have used dozens of them on crummydores with no issues, they are obviously improved.
              One thing I've been doing for 20+ years is supergluing the gasket to the pan, so it cannot slip out of position.

              I still don't like the cork ones.......

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Jaymboze View Post
                Still sounds like a fair price to me, just make sure they do a proper flush of the entire system, not just wash out the pan.
                Again, I was really surprised at the condition of the old fluid after 60000 Kms.
                Thanks for that comment - garage drew my attention that some don't do it properly and that is why it will take 2 hours. These were the same people that did my injectors, head, water pump and timing belt a fortnight ago and the car is running beautifully. They drew my attention to poor quality of the fluid in the transmission.
                Terry
                Canberra
                2008 Prado 120 D4D and 2010 Jayco Swan Outback

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                • #23
                  At closer inspection it looks like they used glue as well as the cork gasket, maybe to help prevent slippage and provide a tighter seal.
                  2009 150 GXL V6 Auto. Ironman deluxe bullbar, uniden uhf, ironman awning, roof mounted solar panel, softdog suspension, adjustable upper control arms, lightforce 240 spotlights, 265/70/17 Hancook Dynapro's, Sidewinder dual battery system, Maxtrax, Engel fridge, ARB draw system, Ironman Snorkel, Roadsafe Recovery Points, 80 watt Solar Panel.
                  CUB Supavan Stockman camper.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Had a look at my auto oil today and it wasn't good, the oil was more brown than red as you can see in the picture.

                    I have an oil cooler and the gearbox has only done 65000km. I do a bit of towing of a 1500kg camper, but I try to look after the gearbox when towing.

                    Toyota have quoted $370 to flush the gearbox so I'm getting it done at the next service.

                    By the way if you want to check the transmission oil it only takes a few minutes. There is a small hose at the top of the drivers side of the radiator which connects to the transmission and is only held on by a spring clip. Take this off and you'll get enough oil out to see the condition of the oil.
                    Attached Files
                    [B]Steve[/B]

                    2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by krypto View Post
                      Had a look at my auto oil today and it wasn't good, the oil was more brown than red as you can see in the picture.

                      I have an oil cooler and the gearbox has only done 65000km. I do a bit of towing of a 1500kg camper, but I try to look after the gearbox when towing.

                      Toyota have quoted $370 to flush the gearbox so I'm getting it done at the next service.

                      By the way if you want to check the transmission oil it only takes a few minutes. There is a small hose at the top of the drivers side of the radiator which connects to the transmission and is only held on by a spring clip. Take this off and you'll get enough oil out to see the condition of the oil.
                      That's pretty good actually.
                      I suppose hard to see from here, but from many examples it looks good.
                      Cooler + 65k it should be looking ok too.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
                        That's pretty good actually.
                        I suppose hard to see from here, but from many examples it looks good.
                        Cooler + 65k it should be looking ok too.
                        The oil isn't burnt, but definitely on the way out and I'm hoping to keep the Prado for a long time.
                        [B]Steve[/B]

                        2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I think the hesitation from some dealers and service centres relates to the 'bleed procedure' required to correctly re-fill the fluid. I am assuming there is a process to get the air out of the trans and top it up properly. One small Toyota dealer told me this, and said take it to the 'bigger' Toyota dealer as they can do it properly.

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                          • #28
                            If there's no air let into the system there should be no need to bleed the system. If you drain the sump and refill the same amount that came out + and extra 1L, pull a cooler line and start the engine until 1L comes out and keep repeating this until 5L is flushed through you'll get the majority of the fluid out. There's about 2L that won't get removed as this sits in the valve body and associated hydraulic circuits.
                            2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by toddles79 View Post
                              I think the hesitation from some dealers and service centres relates to the 'bleed procedure' required to correctly re-fill the fluid. I am assuming there is a process to get the air out of the trans and top it up properly. One small Toyota dealer told me this, and said take it to the 'bigger' Toyota dealer as they can do it properly.
                              Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
                              If there's no air let into the system there should be no need to bleed the system. If you drain the sump and refill the same amount that came out + and extra 1L, pull a cooler line and start the engine until 1L comes out and keep repeating this until 5L is flushed through you'll get the majority of the fluid out. There's about 2L that won't get removed as this sits in the valve body and associated hydraulic circuits.
                              There is a procedure to do it, but there is also a bit of smoke & mirrors from Toyo dealers.
                              Some of them don't know, & some don't want you to know.

                              I did another one yesterday, well overdue & dark at 190k. 10 -12 litres later and it's red.
                              Customer advised its smoother now.

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