TBPrado's 120 VX V6

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

My Rig Build Up

Thought I’d post some information on my build up over the past few years. These mods would not have happened without the valuable input from others on this forum and I thought I’d do my part to help out future/current owners.

Here it is:
Model – 2005 120 VX V6 5sp Auto



When purchased back in 2012. Came with bulbar, driving lights and tow bar. Other than that stock. UHF was first install.

Mods in no particular order:

* Runva 11XP install into Sovereign Bull Bar Post #'s 2 & 3
* Bilstein/King Lift Post #5
* Suspension Measurements Post #8
* ARB Bash Plates Post #11
* Recovery Hooks Post #15
* Safari Snorkel Post #19
* UHF Install Post #20
* Dual Battery Install Post #'s 21 & 22
* Bridgestone D697 Post #24
* ARB Diff Breather Install #'s 25 & 26

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

Winch Install into Sovereign Bull Bar

1. Get yourself a winch cradle from Toyota $200 - $220. Part Number PZQ29602WC. No problem with availability.

2. Study instructions and parts. The shims mentioned in the parts list should already be on the bar itself (I had two on each side), they didn’t come supplied with my cradle kit. As advised on a thread somewhere on here grab some sikaflex and put it in between the stitch welds on the cradle to prevent rust from forming on the unpainted surface inside.

3. I picked up a Runva 11xp from Michael at Ozioffroad (PP Retailer). Also picked up an offset hawse fairlead from him as well. Probably good idea to power it up making sure it works as it should (last thing you’d want is to install it and it doesn’t work).



4. Job would be a lot easier with an engine hoist but definitely is a two man job of putting it back on. Taking the bullbar off is no problem. I’d say the bullbar would only weighs 30-40kg. But the cradle and winch together would weigh 50-60kg, so all up 100kg roughly. You will need some loctite, torque wrench and general tools. I also used a couple of trolley jacks and stands to lift bar into position.

5. Disconnect your spot lights. Depending how much excess cord you have on your uhf aerial you may have to take it off. I had about 1 meter to play with so didn’t have to remove it. Undo your bulb holders for your bottom driving lights. For the indicator and parker light (round one) I took the lens cover off and just undid the three wires and pull the loom back through the grommet (take note where the wires belong). For the passanger side you’ll have to pull the entire holder off to access one of the screws. Time for some of amts’s DRL’s I think.



6. Undo the black rubber bump stops on the bull bar. Held in place by a screw in the bottom then just lift it up out of the way. I tied them to the top tube so they are out the way. Undo the two screws on each side in front of both wheels that form the plastic inner guard. Then pull the inner guard out of the channel so it just flops down sitting on the wheel.

7. Now look inside from the wheel arch and you’ll see a support that is connected to the base of the top tube that follows the headlight with a right angle bracket. Undo both those bolts each side (16mm socket from memory).



8. Now undo the bottom 4 bolts on each of the bulbar posts. Take three out each first side and leave one in each side. You will have one nut capture plate and the shims fall out. Don’t lose them. Now with help of a friend (but can manage yourself) take the remaining two bolts out and gently remove the bulbar.

9. Now you pretty much review the winch cradle instructions and take note of how the winch sits. Motor on passengers side, the runva winch clutch lever on drivers side, winch rope coming off the top of the drum. Rotate gearbox so it won’t foul on the support strut. Instructions of how to rotate gearbox are here: http://www.runvawinch.com.au/wp-cont...x-rotation.pdf. I rotated mine one set of holes around (see pic below).



10. From there it’s a matter of following the winch cradle install instructions. The 3/8” x 1 1/4 Bolts in Step 5 of the instructions were too short so a quick dash to the local bolts supplier got 10mm longer ones. This is probably due to the thickness of the winch cradle and the housing of the winch.

11. After putting it all back together with loctite the next drama was to mount the solenoid. I think its just easier and less clutter to mount it on the bulbar. Cut and file smooth a half hole like the picture above so the bonnet closes. Line the cut with pinchweld rubber from Clarkrubber (about $9 metre) with a bit of sikaflex. I also used a piece of this to protect the AC pipe and used conduit where I could. I ran out of conduit so I’ll end up covering all leads.

12. Power. I thought long and hard about power. Was looking at isolator switch but just too bulky so replaced my positive terminal with a heavy duty wing nut type and when I go bush I can just whip the nut off and put power lead on the battery. Would literally take 30 seconds. I just cable tie it out the way so it doesn’t flap around. Negative lead can stay connected. See how this goes might put an isolator on in the future.

13. Finally put hook on. Freespooled rope out and winched in with some tension on the rope. I hooked it up to the factory tie down point. I’ve just purchased a protection sleeve to protect the first 2 m of rope from here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2M-SYNTHE...item1e77894a72

A few install pictures:

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

More Photos:










Good luck and I hope this helps. It’s a 2 man job and allow a full day for installation.

Thanks to the pradopoint forum on providing some tips, part numbers, and reviews on the actual winch. If anyone has any further tips or pointers feel free to comment. This is my first winch install so I am by no means an expert on the subject matter.

[Guest Close Guest]

Great write up! Welcome to the forum.

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

Thanks. More to come.

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

Bilstein/King Lift

Shocks
Front – Bilstein BEA712
Rear – Bilstein B46-1478 (Landcruiser 80 series shock)

Springs
Front – King KTFR 101H
Rear – King KTRR 102

Sourced the shocks through 4wddirect. Got the stone guards for them as well. Sourced the springs through my local suspension/steering specialist.

Install cost was $200 to fit suspension and $75 for wheel alignment.

Had them on now for approx. 10,000km and they are fantastic. I gained probably 90mm as the stock suspension had sagged that much and was giving me a shocking ride.

Might look at some extended sway bar links in the future.

Very happy with the purchase. Still have the ride quality and comfort of the prado. Slightly firmer but now after 10,000km I wouldn’t even know the difference. And yes I would buy the same package again for sure. Did a trip over the border track soon after install and after doing the one way section over the dunes the rears were warm too touch but not hot. Front were cold.









After about 50kms had a slight weep of cv shaft grease from the inner boots (the small clamp). Put some non perforated stainless steel hose clamps on as a temp fix and so far all good. So just might leave it at that for the time being.

Looks as though this is a common problem with the suspension install when they have to lower the control arm to fit the strut. So keep an eye out on this or ask the suspension installer to put some new clamps on the boots.

[gxl_d4d Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close gxl_d4d]

TB Prado are you able to post a pick side on to show how the car sits with the winch and suspension?

Thanks,

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

Here it is gxl_d4d:

Suspension Heights & Photos

Front - 790mm (which is spot on to what everyone else is getting with similar setup)

Accessories - Alloy Bullbar, Winch & Cradle, Dual Batteries and Underbody plates



Rear - 825mm (nothing in rear and only 1/4 full of petrol)

[Guest Close Guest]

Nice write up on the winch install.

After about 50kms had a slight weep of cv shaft grease from the inner boots (the small clamp). Put some non perforated stainless steel hose clamps on as a temp fix and so far all good. So just might leave it at that for the time being.

Looks as though this is a common problem with the suspension install when they have to lower the control arm to fit the strut. So keep an eye out on this or ask the suspension installer to put some new clamps on the boots.

Yes I got that too the first time I swapped out the front springs. The 2nd time around, I unbolted the LCA and let the strut assembly lower that way. This method makes sure that the CVs are not overextended when trying to get the strut assembly in and out.

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

Thanks amts.

The hose clamps have held up on mine since install so probably leave them. I think the hose clamps are a tighter/stronger solution anyway. Time will tell.

But yes if I had to a resintall then yeah I'd do it your way so there is less extension on the CV's.

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

ARB Bash Plates

Went the ARB bash plates. I think if you are going to do any offroading then this has to be up the top of the list. The factory flimsy ones offer little protection. There are lots of good options, such as amts's and brown davis. Decided with ARB as it is just down the road.

Cost for all the plates were $400 (ie front sump/diff, transmission and transfer), it comes in 4 pieces and is relatively easy to fit and clear instructions are provided with the kit. Put the car up on jack stands as high as you can, or better still use a hoist to have good access.


I added a couple of large high tensile washers on the front.






Maybe hard to see but I had to pack the rear plate with a few washers to clear the exhaust.

My tip would be to install these when Diff and Transfer oils need changing or for the sake of $50 and another 20 minutes change the oils anyway while you have easy access.

On the to-do list: some protection in between radiator and bulbar.

[pjorek Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close pjorek]

On the to-do list: some protection in between radiator and bulbar.

Hey mate,

I would highly recommend AMTS radiator cover which was made for the sovereign bullbar. I have one and pretty happy with it. Covers the radiator no problem.

Also with your winch, any chance of taking front on photos? I'm interested in the radiator area that's now being covered by the winch. Add spot lights etc and do you think it will have some effect on cooling in summer?

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

Hey mate,

I would highly recommend AMTS radiator cover which was made for the sovereign bullbar. I have one and pretty happy with it. Covers the radiator no problem.

Also with your winch, any chance of taking front on photos? I'm interested in the radiator area that's now being covered by the winch. Add spot lights etc and do you think it will have some effect on cooling in summer?

Yeah I don't mind AMTS's radiator covers. It's on the list don't worry.

Here is a pic:



The winch itself doesn't cover anymore of the radiator. The fairlead area is usually covered in by a bit of plastic prior to winch install anyway. The only thing that is restricting airflow is the solenoid pack and the number plate (but this can be put on a hinge or mounted in the original position anytime with the two screws holding it in place).

I can't see cooling will be a issue an issue. I've only seen the temp rise 2-3 degrees above normal when towing in hot weather or low range 4wd at slow speed with not much air flow. The thermo fans on the Prado do a pretty good job. If you haven't already got one I'd invest in a scanguage. They do a good job for keeping an eye on fluctuations in water and auto tranny temps.

[pjorek Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close pjorek]

Thanks for that. The car looks great and how did you get the bar so shiny?

I'll be copying your install in the next couple of months (when all parts get here and I finally find some time). I tested the weight etc and will need to get firmer springs for the front but I kind of expected it anyway.

Oh and scangauge...got it and works a treat

[TBPrado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close TBPrado]

Recovery Hooks

Probably my second mod to the vehicle.

Bought a kit like this:

http://www.marks4wd.com/recovery-gear/rppra120kit.html

(come down in price a bit now)

Plenty of info on this site regarding install. Undo the bottom two radiator support bolts and just loosen the top two to allow you to move the radiator an inch or so out of the way. Then to drill out the bottom holes on each side of the chassis. Just protect the radiator with a bit of metal plate to prevent any accidents. The biggest hassle was access to drill the holes. I removed the plastic inner wheel arch which connect to the bulbar enough to move it out the way. Use some Loctite. Then just use a paint pen (or white out) to mark the bolts to make sure there is no movement over time.

Here are some pics: