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"MickL's" 120 1KZ

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  • #31
    Love the "TEQ". My celica has those markings on it everywhere, looking for some genuine parts with those markings for the engine bay to restore it. I love that logo, so much better than the Mexican hat.
    [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
    TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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    • #32
      Hi Mick,

      Would you know the part no of the CT16V intake elbow as I am looking at doing this mod as well? also if you remember the site you purchased it from it would be great.

      Regards,
      Tiago

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by freshy84 View Post
        Hi Mick,

        Would you know the part no of the CT16V intake elbow as I am looking at doing this mod as well? also if you remember the site you purchased it from it would be great.

        Regards,
        Tiago
        Hi,

        I don't have the part number at hand, I'd have to look back through my notes of find the invoice. It should be easy enough to find out from one of the online factory parts diagrams. It happens to be from a Hilux, I'd assume the Prado one would be the same size and angle. Be wary if it's a Hiace one as the angle of it *may be* different, do you research.

        I got it from here: [email protected]

        Google them to find their site. You'll have to contact them though because from memory they don't list the elbow on their site.
        It was around $75 AUD with a gasket.

        It requires a some modification to it and the engine dip stick to fit.

        Mick

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        • #34
          Been playing with diesel modules today.

          As I said earlier I haven't been convinced that the Dtronic module I have is ideal for my current set up so today I switched between it and a DP Chip for some back to back testing.

          Bum in seat results are that the Dtronic makes more bottom end torque and the DP more KW, the difference is definitely noticeable.

          Now the DP Chip is only a voltage multiplier, it takes the spill valve 5v signal and at any given point increases the voltage. Every step up of it's rotary adjustment knob ads more % of voltage; For example 0= standard signal, 1 = standard signal plus 1%, 2= standard signal plus 3% (I don't have the exact figures as I didn't test or data log them but you get the theory.)

          So I figured I could piggy back the DP onto the Dtronic (which is a full inline unit that apparently has timing control too) and have some adjustment over fuelling.

          So here it is; My Prado running two modules at once!



          Twice the power? No! Improvement? Yes!

          But starting off with the DP on 0 I ended up at setting 6 with good results setting 7 and up it got a little harsh on and off throttle, at setting 8 EGT's were noticeably higher I could see a little smoke in the mirror when flat footing it. (with only the DP I can run setting 9 with now smoke and good EGT's)

          It drove noticeably better and the EGTs still remained at a comfortable level.

          Now obviously this is just a bit of fun, and to prove a point. You can't buy Dtronics anymore and you certainly would buy a second module, it's just way to expensive for the result. If you are buying a module and have a lot of other mods like me you'd just get a custom tune done.

          For me it was about proving I was going to get reasonable gains by replacing my Dtronic with something that could take a custom tune.

          Anyway; fun and games over, time to remove the DP and give it back to it's owner! (Thanks John from PP)

          Mick

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          • #35
            Well I got something constructive done; Rear heavy duty lower links are in! Just got the uppers to do.

            They have a hell of a lot more steel in them than the light weight factory units, won't bend another one of these in a hurry!









            Mick

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            • #36
              And.... uppers done too. Skinned knuckles doing the passenger side as the access is terrible with the fuel tank there.

              Made the upper links a little longer (guesstimated the length) to improve the pinion angles a little. Put the angle finders on and still 5 degrees out but I'll get back to it when I get time better than the more than 8 degrees it was.

              Uppers are super beefy compared to the stockers (which I've seen break in two other vehicles)






              You might also notice the cable ties around the exhaust rubbers, I've done this all the way along as I found the Toyota rubbers very soft and I hated how the exhaust wobbled around.

              Mick

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              • #37
                Looking good Mick. Are the adjustable ends grease-able as well?
                My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                  Looking good Mick. Are the adjustable ends grease-able as well?
                  No, I went the Teflon lined ones. It's a bit of a trial to see how they go. I went with the theory grease covered spheres and dirt won't go the distance. I guess it's a bit of suck it and see. They aren't actually all that expensive so I can easily change them out.

                  Mick

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                  • #39
                    They do look good. We used the adjustable upper links on the P-ute to straighten up the pinion so well worth it.
                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                    • #40
                      Any change in NVH? Were you getting a driveline vibration with the pinion angle?

                      I might try the cable tie trick on the mounts, my Beau system knocks on the rear bumper when the engine starts and shuts down. Needless to say it sh!ts me no end..

                      Ades
                      Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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                      • #41
                        Any change in NVH? Were you getting a driveline vibration with the pinion angle?
                        Not sure yet, it'll get an extended run at speed tomorrow. I do have a faint vibration at speed (80-100kmph) very faint like the road surface was coarse when there hasn't actually been any change. I've checked everything else. Pinion angle was the only thing I could put it down too. I was always under the impression that 5 degrees or less difference was OK, over that issues start to arise.

                        I might try the cable tie trick on the mounts, my Beau system knocks on the rear bumper when the engine starts and shuts down. Needless to say it sh!ts me no end..
                        Yeah ditto, mine has actually melted the bumpers surface. I was just thinking today to take a hacksaw blade to it and create some more clearance.

                        Mick

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by OziOffroad View Post
                          Not sure yet, it'll get an extended run at speed tomorrow. I do have a faint vibration at speed (80-100kmph) very faint like the road surface was coarse when there hasn't actually been any change. I've checked everything else. Pinion angle was the only thing I could put it down too. I was always under the impression that 5 degrees or less difference was OK, over that issues start to arise.



                          Yeah ditto, mine has actually melted the bumpers surface. I was just thinking today to take a hacksaw blade to it and create some more clearance.

                          Mick
                          4 deg was the max difference when I was involved in chassis mods on trucks if my memory serves me. Or was it 4 deg min from straight alignment to stop brinelling of the rollers in the joint.. Bugger getting old
                          Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by OziOffroad View Post
                            The restrictive intake hose has been replaced with silicone hose and the resonator box removed.

                            A CT16V intake has been fitted to the turbo.
                            Hi Mick, I'm considering doing this mod to my 1KD engine - can you please tell me if the turbocharger on the 1KD engine has a CT12V or CT16V intake? (i.e. do I need to change mine?)

                            Great build up
                            2008 Charcoal 120 GXL - D4D Auto with Option Pack
                            [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33254-MYBO-s-Charcoal-120-GXL"]My Build Up Thread[/URL]

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by mybo View Post
                              Hi Mick, I'm considering doing this mod to my 1KD engine - can you please tell me if the turbocharger on the 1KD engine has a CT12V or CT16V intake? (i.e. do I need to change mine?)

                              Great build up
                              Hi Mybo,

                              The turbo on your 1KD already has the larger intake elbow. All Prado 1KD's have the CT16V turbo.
                              In your case it's just a matter of changing out the rubber hose for silicone ones.

                              Regards,

                              Mick
                              [CENTER][B][I][SIZE=1][COLOR=blue]1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
                              Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost![/COLOR][/SIZE][/I][/B][/CENTER]

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                              • #45
                                Thanks for the help! Looks like I can go ahead with this one asap
                                2008 Charcoal 120 GXL - D4D Auto with Option Pack
                                [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33254-MYBO-s-Charcoal-120-GXL"]My Build Up Thread[/URL]

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