Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
What did you do to your 90 today?
Collapse
X
-
All up I have about $150 in the button and associated hardware.
Push to Start kit $65
Immobilizer bypass module $50
Copy of transponder inside my key $40
It's a fairly straightforward install but you do have to know what you're doing otherwise you leave car wide open for theft.
Mine is connected to my Viper Alarm system which has both a proximity remote sensor but also a passive bluetooth connection to my phone. If either one leave the area of the car, the doors lock, car arms, immobilizer kicks in as well as oem immobilizer and then the start button module also receives a signal that prevents the button from being used
Comment
-
So would there be anyway to do this without an alarm system additional?
Sam
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[I]Maroochydore, Sunshine Coast, Queensland[/I]
1999 Toyota Landcruiser Prado RV 4cyl 2.7L Manual, Lifted 2-3" on Dobinson Springs & Shocks, Cooper STT Max Mud-Terrains in 235/85R16 all-round 32", Custom no Bullbar winch mount with Runva 11XP Winch, Black Sliders, 10000 Lumen, LED Lightbar
Comment
-
Attached my sticker, courtesy of Mattfunk120!
Thanks Matt!
Sam
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[I]Maroochydore, Sunshine Coast, Queensland[/I]
1999 Toyota Landcruiser Prado RV 4cyl 2.7L Manual, Lifted 2-3" on Dobinson Springs & Shocks, Cooper STT Max Mud-Terrains in 235/85R16 all-round 32", Custom no Bullbar winch mount with Runva 11XP Winch, Black Sliders, 10000 Lumen, LED Lightbar
Comment
-
Originally posted by juc33_prado View PostSo would there be anyway to do this without an alarm system additional?
Sam
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Comment
-
Originally posted by RanJ View PostI did ponder with the idea of moving the transponder ring from around the barrel to just under the centre console so you would need to drop your key bunch in the centre for it to start but i never looked in to how successful this would be.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[I]Maroochydore, Sunshine Coast, Queensland[/I]
1999 Toyota Landcruiser Prado RV 4cyl 2.7L Manual, Lifted 2-3" on Dobinson Springs & Shocks, Cooper STT Max Mud-Terrains in 235/85R16 all-round 32", Custom no Bullbar winch mount with Runva 11XP Winch, Black Sliders, 10000 Lumen, LED Lightbar
Comment
-
Encountered my first annoyance which is easily fixed. To actually gire the starter or stop the motor your foot must be on the brake. Since i use my vehicle for work i often lean in and out to stop and start the car. Except now o have yo open the door and get in.
Solution is to put a momentary button beside the start button that feed 12v+ onto the module brake wire and if i diode isolate the return feed to the brake switch i can push the button all day long without triggering the brake lights.
Comment
-
Originally posted by RanJ View PostSince i use my vehicle for work i often lean in and out to stop and start the car. Except now o have yo open the door and get in.
Solution is to put a momentary button beside the start button that feed 12v+ onto the module brake wire and if i diode isolate the return feed to the brake switch i can push the button all day long without triggering the brake lights.
Comment
-
Sick and tired of not having enough AH to run things and with my aux battery only being 65 AH, i contemplated a lot of things but ended up putting a 130Ah AGM in the rear drawers.
Got a good deal on the battery & set it up with a midi fuse nice & close to the battery. An Anderson plug lets me connect and disconnect when required.
My drawers, which a built a few years back have a rear compartment which i used to store recovery gear. I decided that this would be where the battery would reside, mounted in a run of the mill battery box...
Also, a week or so back, i was wondering why my 5 year old solar panels just weren't cutting the mustard. Ended up the controller had given up the ghost. So ended up scoring a new controller. Mounted in a sealed box off the panels and closer to the battery, it puts out a good 6.5AH plus when the sun is shining. I have a 8m run of 6mm auto from the panels to the controller and 6B&S from the controller to the charging point on the Aux battery.
Charging input point for solar
With the fridge drawing 4 to 4.5 Ah, the panels put back whats required to keep the beverages cold.
But at the end of the day and even with close to 200 AH in the car for running the fridge and lights, im thinking i need more solar.
So the plan im currently looking at is to source say a 200 watt panel, mount it on the roof racks and leave it there. The plan will be, mount the controller in the car, so i can connect and disconnect as required via Anderson Plugs. This way, when im out bush, I can just plug it together when i need it.98 GXL......
My build up
[i][url]http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=8948[/url][/i]
Comment
-
Anderson plugs come in handy! i like that idea off the battery.
SAM[I]Maroochydore, Sunshine Coast, Queensland[/I]
1999 Toyota Landcruiser Prado RV 4cyl 2.7L Manual, Lifted 2-3" on Dobinson Springs & Shocks, Cooper STT Max Mud-Terrains in 235/85R16 all-round 32", Custom no Bullbar winch mount with Runva 11XP Winch, Black Sliders, 10000 Lumen, LED Lightbar
Comment
Comment