Lightforce switch to NewPro-Tech Switch

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

Can anyone provide some help here???

My driving lights are currently connected to the standard Lightforce switch and harness: http://www.lightforce.net.au/files/p...NG-HARNESS.pdf
Id like to replace this switch with a NPT-LS-30SD: http://www.newpro-tech.com.au/PDF/NPT-30SD.pdf

I'm not sure which wires should go where as whoever connected up the switch ran a Black wire to both the Left and Right pin on the Lightforce switch.

I believe the centre (Brown) wire will connect with the new Yellow wire, but that's all I've got...

Any help would be awesome!!!

[Guest Close Guest]

Not sure as there is no info on the terminals on the LF switch. Does the LF switch illuminate with the dash lights or when the spotties are on?

It looks like the brown wire is the high beam feed, so this should be wired to "Green wire". But you'll need to supply more info as the wiring doesn't seem to match the LF instructions. Best to get a multimeter out and test the wires.

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

Illumination occurs when the lights are on. - So maybe the Yellow to Centre idea is not correct...
The wiring does not even remotely match the instructions. A multimeter may be my best course of action here.

[Guest Close Guest]

Yes. Do you have 3 wires only to the LF switch? First step is continuity testing from the switch to the high beam wire, then switch to ground. Then the remaining wire will be to the relay.

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

I'll see how I go.
Cheers!!

[MidLifeCrisis Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MidLifeCrisis]

Spilsy.

I have seen a wiring diagram for the rocker switch on the interweb. I will try to track it down, but alternatively do a google.

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

This actually helps:

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

This actually helps:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15481[/ATTACH]

Except spot lights have to be switched to extinguish automatically when the main lights go from high beam to low beam. So change the ign + to high beam (as long as the high beam are positively switched) and you will comply.

[MidLifeCrisis Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MidLifeCrisis]

Just in case....

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

So, I had a bit of a fiddle and worked out the 12v, relay and earth pins. Tried to connect up the new switch with the corresponding wires. The switch lit up, but no on/off of the lights.

Hmmmm

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

Just in case....
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15484[/ATTACH]

Out of curiosity, do the carling switches fit in the blanks in the 150?
It looks like my 3 wires connect to the left hand pins of the carling.

[Guest Close Guest]

So, I had a bit of a fiddle and worked out the 12v, relay and earth pins. Tried to connect up the new switch with the corresponding wires. The switch lit up, but no on/off of the lights.

Hmmmm

How many pins are being used on the new switch?

From the NPT PDF you posted, you will need to jumper the yellow and green terminals to the 12V wire you found.

[Guest Close Guest]

Out of curiosity, do the carling switches fit in the blanks in the 150?
It looks like my 3 wires connect to the left hand pins of the carling.

They're too big in the body and the rocker. There's lots of filing to be done to fit the body in and the rocker will overlap the adjacent row of switches.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

High beam on a 150 is positively switched. A wire will probably go from high beam to the switch and back to terminal 85 or 86 on the relay. Whichever it isn't will be connected to earth. This makes and breaks the relay with high beam on. Fused power should run to terminal 30 while terminal 87 should run to your spot lights positive. Dash lights will likely go to another terminal on the switch and just light up when the lights are switched on. The diagram mlc posted is what I have used for Carling switches, the new pro switches are a little different I think.

http://www.ntech-led.com/PDF/NPT-15L...L%20RL%20B.pdf

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

They're too big in the body and the rocker. There's lots of filing to be done to fit the body in and the rocker will overlap the adjacent row of switches.

Thought that might be the case.
Forgive my ignorance, "jumping" just means running both to the same point?