Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Checking/adjusting valve clearance

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Checking/adjusting valve clearance

    Hi all. Have searched everywhere for this but haven't managed to find it... Is someone able to enlighten me with a high level (or even detailed if so inclined) guide to checking the valve clearances on the 1GR-FE? I've only ever looked at the valves on my motorcycle and it's a 10 minute job with special inspection covers you take off. The Prado looks a little more complex. And is it just a case of replacing shims to get the desired clearance or is it the whole bucket/lifter? They're sounding pretty tappety (165k) and I'd rather be safe than sorry but don't want to fork out $500+ in labour if I can manage it myself. That said, might need to get the shim tool from Toyo if that's the only way to swap them out.

    Thanks

    Brett

  • #2
    This thread should answer all your questions.

    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...lve-clearances
    2007 VX 1GR-FE, Dune, ARB Sahara Bar, Waeco CF-50, Dual Battery, Alinco UHF CB, DIY Drawer and DS40 drop slide, Tinted Windows, HR towbar, Dash mat, IPF900 HID converted, Warn M10000/ synthetic rope, extended Diff and Gearbox Breathers, Tough Dog Suspension lift Kit

    Comment


    • #3
      I found that thread already but it doesn't describe the process of getting to the valves, if I need to replace gaskets as part of the process, etc.

      Brett

      Comment


      • #4
        why would you like to get to the valves mate? in order to do that you would have to take the head off.
        if you want to do the valve timing that is quite an easy process once you have some information about your engine and its firing order.
        once you find the firing sequence you have to turn the engine over by hand until the cylinder that is first in the firing order is on TDC compression, to know that you have reached this point it is best to watch the valves go up and down through a whole sequence. once you have arched the correct position for timing you should be able to roll the pushrods with ease in the valve follower.
        Have the correct tools ready to rock and roll wight he correct clearances setup on your feeler gauges then start the process of adjustment in order of the firing cycle, or alternatively if you can get hold of a manual that says what valves can be adjusted when cylinder 1 is at TDC-C then rotate the engine 180 degrees and complete the rest of the valves.
        you will have to replace the rocker cover gasket after you do all this.
        if you need any further advice send me a PM mate.. hope this helps a little bit.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks tucky - useful to know. There is a tappet sound I'm hearing which I presume is the valves (though I've been told it could also be the injectors). Keen to rule out valve clearance. In all my searches for people that have checked clearance before, they've always been in spec, but I just want to be sure! My only other thought is maybe the drive belt bearings need replacing. I have to do the drive belt soon so might do them at the same time.

          Appreciate your help! Will PM if I get stuck.

          Brett.

          Comment


          • #6
            if your injectors are making enough noise that they are sounding like a rocker is out of adjustment then something internal to the injector is wrong, either the spring inside the injector has seriously worn away the spring tension washers or there may be something else wrong with the injector.... me personally i would start with the valve clearances as thats the easiest to do, and if the injectors haven't been changed in a while then i would think about giving them a swap out as well.. all easy enough to do mate.. you'll be a genius by the time your done..

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by tucky88 View Post
              if your injectors are making enough noise that they are sounding like a rocker is out of adjustment then something internal to the injector is wrong, either the spring inside the injector has seriously worn away the spring tension washers or there may be something else wrong with the injector.... me personally i would start with the valve clearances as thats the easiest to do, and if the injectors haven't been changed in a while then i would think about giving them a swap out as well.. all easy enough to do mate.. you'll be a genius by the time your done..
              Thanks tucky, good to know. I doubt the injectors have been done since new and we're at 170k almost now. Any idea if there are cheaper brands than Toyo ones that I can fit? A set of 6 Toyo injectors will set me back almost a grand. I've heard of people buying off ebay 6 injectors for the price of 1 genuine one, just not sure if there are good brands out there or if they're all dooming me to engine failure

              Will get a rocket cover gasket, pop the top and measure the clearances to start anyway as you suggest. Easiest first step!

              Brett

              Comment


              • #8
                I wouldn't be to worried about noisy injectors on a V6 especially if it is running ok , get somebody who has experience on these motors to have a listen , i have struck these with noisy engines due to insufficient oil changes but a few oil changes every 1000 k or so has sorted them out
                If you want to check the valve clearances it is a major job to adjust them , if the clearance is out of wack you will need new lifters
                2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Bear. Hopefully a check will show me that there's no need to adjust! But if they're out of spec, I'm just going to have to do it anyway... Interestingly I was at a Toyota service center recently and asked how much work in checking valve clearances. They said a lot of work, if they're out of spec will need to SHIM them... I was pretty sure the valves cannot be shimmed. Were they smoking crack?

                  Will change oil a bit more frequently (every 1000k seems excessive but I guess I could get away with cheaper oil if I'm doing more frequent changes?) for the next few months and see if that helps. It is quite gritty when I drain it still (only bought this 15k ago second-hand and changed oil and filter twice now) so might need those extra "flushes". Am going to try changing my fuel too (always use Caltex 98 octane), might try BP or Shell for a month to see if it causes more or less noise.

                  Thanks again

                  Brett

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    BTW I don't know how you find someone who has experience with these engines! I must have bad luck, most mechanics I meet (and I've tried a lot) haven't really cared yet - they're just "tell us what you want done and we'll do it". No questioning what brands I want, talking to me about proactive care or things they've found with these engines, etc... I think it's because I do a lot of the servicing myself, they don't really want much to do with me. Love this forum though, it's a great help and the people here are tops. Just wish some of the experts here lived closer to me and would accept beer as payment

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sorry I should have been more specific about the rapid oil change , I have only done that when the servicing hasnt been up to date , also in order to adjust the clearances the
                      Camshafts need to be removed in order to fit the correct thickness valve follower
                      2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...e-one-fix.html

                        this is how i fixed my "tappy" 1gr fe.

                        the valve opens and closes and the sound is amplified through the plastic intake.
                        Last edited by clanger; 19-05-2014, 02:07 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          6 years later... finally just did the valve inspection. One was out of spec. I was also re-sealing the timing cover so the entire front end came apart and that one lifter was replaced. Other than some carbon build-up in the left (passenger) side head, and a bit of baked on oil varnish, it was in pretty good nic. Chains had barely stretched, tensioners have barely had to extend (although I destroyed one in the process so had to replace that). After putting it back together again (what a nightmare it is - can see why Toyota recommend dropping diff/sump to guarantee the oil pickup seal is done right), I can confirm - the ticking hasn’t changed. But then again, it hasn’t changed in 6 years, so I’m not too worried. Maybe in another 6 years an injector will die and I’ll replace them all and report back to this thread again if it has solved my ticking.

                          Comment

                          canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                          mencisport.com
                          antalya escort
                          tsyd.org deneme bonusu veren siteler
                          deneme bonusu veren siteler
                          gaziantep escort
                          gaziantep escort
                          asyabahis maltcasino olabahis olabahis
                          erotik film izle Rus escort gaziantep rus escort
                          atasehir escort tuzla escort
                          sikis sex hatti
                          en iyi casino siteleri
                          deneme bonusu veren siteler
                          casibom
                          deneme bonusu veren siteler
                          deneme bonusu veren siteler
                          betticket istanbulbahis
                          Working...
                          X