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  • "New" Prado owner needs advice...

    G'day Peeps
    Need some expert advice - have brought a 2008 Grande diesel D4D... 170K on the clock.
    What I would really appreciate is feedback as to a couple of things:
    1/ Do I get a genuine Toyota BullBar or secondhand?... like the look of the genuine Toyo one as opposed to TJM/ARB etc. (Any other suggestions) (quoted $2345 fitted)
    2/ Do I need to get engine checked re the injectors etc.
    3/ Taken dealer warranty - Not small dealer warranty (i think it is called Nation Warranty something which I have been told is next to useless) if so should I have the motor/car checked out. Car has been a one owner city supermarket SUV... not addons at all!
    4/ Is it necessary to rust proof these cars, seeing I am going to be doing beach and outback travelling? (quoted $850)

    Would appreciate any feedback from you experienced 4X4 people.

    Kind regards
    Larry Dawson
    Gold Coast
    Queensland
    "[B]The PEARL[/B]" is our early 2009 120 "Pearl White"Grande . [B]The build consists of[/B]: ARB deluxe Bar, Winch is a Domin8tor, Driving lights are 3X Korr LED's. Roof Rack is a RR 42107B. - Rear Draws are from OffRoad Systems 3 draw plus fridge slide, table and 40ltr S.S. tank. See our build site : [URL]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?32140-Start-of-quot-The-Pearl-quot-transformation-April-2014[/URL]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  • #2
    Hi

    my 2c worth:

    1 - What are you going to be doing? I have a Toyota genuine that was on the car when bought, if I was buying new I would get aftermarket. The aftermarket bars tend to have better approach angles, so better for off road, and most (not all) would have hi-lift jacking points. If you want it for protection steel is better than the alloy IMO. I will keep my genuine bar though as there's no need to replace it.

    If you want genuine and want to fit a winch you will have to source a winch cradle from TMC. They tend to say the don't sell it anymore, but that's because their parts database is out of date. Plenty of people have the genuine for sale when they replace so it will be cheaper however

    2 - Yes - injector feedback values, seats, seals and sump pick up checked for clogging. (Valve clearances should have been done at the 160,000 too) I would be expecting to change the injectors at that mileage. I have 95k on the clock and injector 1 is starting to make me nervous.... I'm budgeting on replacing at 100,000

    3 - Don't know about that warranty and what it covers so can't comment really

    4 - Personally I wouldn't bother. Good maintenance and cleaning habits are a better insurance IMO. Save the money for something else.... like new injectors (just kidding)
    r4ndll
    Avid PP Poster!
    Last edited by r4ndll; 31-03-2014, 06:19 PM. Reason: 160k details
    [SIZE=2]120 GXL D4D Auto, with a 'List of Wants' greater than the 'List of Needs' greater than the 'List of Haves'
    Nissan Patrol: Keeping Bogan's out of Toyota's since 1951[/SIZE]

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by YMUS View Post
      G'day Peeps
      Need some expert advice - have brought a 2008 Grande diesel D4D... 170K on the clock.
      What I would really appreciate is feedback as to a couple of things:
      1/ Do I get a genuine Toyota BullBar or secondhand?... like the look of the genuine Toyo one as opposed to TJM/ARB etc. (Any other suggestions) (quoted $2345 fitted)
      2/ Do I need to get engine checked re the injectors etc.
      3/ Taken dealer warranty - Not small dealer warranty (i think it is called Nation Warranty something which I have been told is next to useless) if so should I have the motor/car checked out. Car has been a one owner city supermarket SUV... not addons at all!
      4/ Is it necessary to rust proof these cars, seeing I am going to be doing beach and outback travelling? (quoted $850)

      Would appreciate any feedback from you experienced 4X4 people.

      Kind regards
      Larry Dawson
      Gold Coast
      Queensland
      That's one expensive bull bar. I still think your better off with and ARB or TJM .
      I would get the injectors checked, the problem with them is that the O ring seal shrinks and allows the injector to become loose, it then sucks in dirt and carbon builds up on the nozzle causing premature wear. The new seals will fix this problem.
      Most used car warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on, can you cancel it and get back any unused portion??
      As for rust proofing, each to their own.... if you wash the 4B after being on the beach you wont have a problem.
      97 VX Grande, with front & rear air lockers, ARB Sahara winch bar with tigers 11 winch, 2" EFS lift, 265/75/16 Achilles Desert hawk XMT, and more.


      [B]Bitumen - A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/B]

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Fellas
        I have decided to go for the ARB colour coded and steel.
        Re the injectors I have the dealer giving me the history of the engine... then having their mechanics check them out and report in writing.
        Then i will finalise the deal.
        appreciate your feedback
        "[B]The PEARL[/B]" is our early 2009 120 "Pearl White"Grande . [B]The build consists of[/B]: ARB deluxe Bar, Winch is a Domin8tor, Driving lights are 3X Korr LED's. Roof Rack is a RR 42107B. - Rear Draws are from OffRoad Systems 3 draw plus fridge slide, table and 40ltr S.S. tank. See our build site : [URL]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?32140-Start-of-quot-The-Pearl-quot-transformation-April-2014[/URL]
        [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

        Comment


        • #5
          With the injectors there are two issues which are discussed in the diesel engine thread. Worth a read so you know what they are talking about. First one is the injectors wearing out so the feedback values will give you the status and health of these. The second is the injector seats failing due to heat, this allows combustion gases into the rocker cover and carbonises the oil. This makes the oil lumpy and sticky and the lumps travel back into the sump and get sucked up onto the oil suction pick up and reduce or even block the pick up meaning not enough oil is pumped to the galleries. Both can be fatal for the engine. The only way to check the second issue is by having a look at the strainer through the sump after dropping the oil. If the seats have been changed in the last 40,000 km or so then you should have no issues until it is time to swap out injectors or do the valve clearance checks.
          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

          Comment


          • #6
            Correct me if I'm wrong but i thought a way you could help rust proof the underside of car was to spray/coat with fish oil? I know of some people do this with boat trailers.

            I can confirm the warranty's are not worth the paper they are written on i had an experience with a car several years ago - it pays to read the fine print and the PDS of any policy whilst they claim they will pay up-to $XXXX.XX what they actually pay is a percentage of for example i had an issue with the clutch master cylinder after the statutory 3 month dealer warranty expired (had the car for 7 months) the brochure claims and makes out they would pay out on this component however in reality i was only covered for up to $300.00 for the part/labour and i would incur any additional out of pocket fees, so when they state you can claim your $XXXX.XX in reality its really like your extras with your health insurance you have a pool of money and then they decide on how much you claim for against each item.

            Injectors and Oil Pick up i agree with every comment made above, I'd just like to ad that i inspect my oil pickup screen every 12 months with a inspection camera - not sure if it should be done on more a regular basis but i have piece of mind

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by YMUS View Post
              G'day Peeps
              Need some expert advice - have brought a 2008 Grande diesel D4D... 170K on the clock.
              What I would really appreciate is feedback as to a couple of things:
              1/ Do I get a genuine Toyota BullBar or secondhand?... like the look of the genuine Toyo one as opposed to TJM/ARB etc. (Any other suggestions) (quoted $2345 fitted)
              2/ Do I need to get engine checked re the injectors etc.
              3/ Taken dealer warranty - Not small dealer warranty (i think it is called Nation Warranty something which I have been told is next to useless) if so should I have the motor/car checked out. Car has been a one owner city supermarket SUV... not addons at all!
              4/ Is it necessary to rust proof these cars, seeing I am going to be doing beach and outback travelling? (quoted $850)

              Would appreciate any feedback from you experienced 4X4 people.

              Kind regards
              Larry Dawson
              Gold Coast
              Queensland

              Don't pay the extra for the Warranty.
              I am from a dealership background many moons ago & some extended warranties are ok, but most are rubbish as stated above by Toy4x4

              Regards, Jason

              Comment

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