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  • Immobilised

    Hello all,

    I have recently purchased my first Prado (2001 model) and was loving it, until, this morning when I can no longer start the engine. It appears to be the immobiliser. Luckily its at home and I'm not on the road somewhere.

    The dealerships are all closed until Monday (and I'm away on Monday for a week). Any suggestions? Would a (non-Toyota) mobile mechanic be able to fix, or am I reliant upon a dealership seeing as it seems to be security related?

    Here's the series of events, if it matters:

    I purchased the car about 2 months ago. Had it checked out. All was well.

    A week ago, I had a key cutter fix the remote fob, which was only working intermittently. He soldered the battery holder back to the chip board. It worked fine after then. I was just locking with the key before then.

    I used the car yesterday (no probs) although the fob didn't work as I was walking away. I went inside, opened the case, removed the (fob) battery, replaced the battery, and then successfully locked my car using the fob, after a few presses. Walked away.

    I go to use my car this morning and after half-turning the key, the electrics shut off. Immobiliser light is flashing. I tried it with the master key with the same result. No power, can't turn it over etc. Expensive, hunk of metal sitting on my driveway.

    I have trawled this forum but am still non-the-wiser. Most posts seem to relate to a keyless version (which I don't have).

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The back up is to call a Toyota dealership, which I know will be expensive.

    Cheers, AJG.

  • #2
    I have an RV pov pack so I am not sure how the immobilizer works on the upmarket jobs, but no power sounds a little weird. Do you have 12v at the battery? Do the headlights turn on?

    Comment


    • #3
      Hmmm. The battery seems to have power (I have a charger which indicates a charge) but I don't have a volt meter. No lights though, but I'm not sure if that's because of the immobiliser. Power generally starts up for about a second and then cuts out.

      Now I'm starting to think it may be the battery. Next option, buy a volt meter?

      If I remove the battery, will it mess with my radio (i.e. require a code)? I'm not sure if I have it.

      Comment


      • #4
        When I had this problem with my 95 series it was due to low charge on the main battery. If you remove the battery it will require a reset of the security code on the radio, it's normally 000 from the factory.

        Comment


        • #5
          ALWAYS start with the basics. I would check the voltage and the terminals on the battery-take em off and clean or at least give them a twist. I just tried a cut key blank that I have (no transponder) which only opens the doors and it will do everything except start the car ie will fire up ignition and accessories. Headlights should still work without a key in the ignition. I still think battery or bad terminals. Let us know how you get on.

          Comment


          • #6
            If all the light's on the dash go out as you turn the key defiantly your battery. I'm pretty sure the factory immobilizer only cuts ignition/ fuel. Engine will turn over just not fire.
            96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Playdoh96 View Post
              If all the light's on the dash go out as you turn the key defiantly your battery. I'm pretty sure the factory immobilizer only cuts ignition/ fuel. Engine will turn over just not fire.
              Yep that's right it tells the injectors to operate or not
              Sounds like one of the main fuses

              Comment


              • #8
                So if you have had the remote repaired, are you sure the remote hasn't stuffed up again and is not signalling to the immobiliser
                97 VX Grande, with front & rear air lockers, ARB Sahara winch bar with tigers 11 winch, 2" EFS lift, 265/75/16 Achilles Desert hawk XMT, and more.


                [B]Bitumen - A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/B]

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                • #9
                  The immobilizer only prevents the engine from starting, it shouldn't affect the 12v supply. Let's wait until he reports back on the power source before we all start to give advice. Basic diagnosis first! ;-)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    As has been said check your battery & wiring first.
                    Remember the remote is only for the central locking it has no interaction with the immobiliser. So any work (or faults with) carried out on the remote is another issue.
                    The key is "paired" with the immobiliser so when it is in the ignition it is sensed and the engine will start.

                    Lee
                    '18 VX, Billies with Dobinson springs, Summit bar with Narva Enhanced Optics to help my old eyes

                    Comment

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