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1997 Prado - Electric Windows Stopped Working

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  • 1997 Prado - Electric Windows Stopped Working

    All electric windows on my 1997 Prado have stopped working. Three are down and one is up and they all cannot be adjusted from either the master control on the drivers door nor any of the individual doors. I have attempted to turn on ignition with auto switch up and also attempted to do the master switch reset as suggested. Nothing happens at all. There is no noise from any of the windows. The central locking is working fine so I assume it is not a fuse problem and that power is getting to the drivers door master switch. Do I need to bite the bullet and get a new masterswitch or can I try other things to reset?

  • #2
    Mate have you checked the main power fuse, or just assume that if part of the switch working the windows show too?????? Main power is in the fuse box under the dash. Should be the big square one at the top of the box marked 30amp. Its the only one thats a different shape than the std blade fuse.
    Playdoh96
    Member
    Last edited by Playdoh96; 17-11-2013, 02:20 PM. Reason: more details
    96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

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    • #3
      For all the windows to stop at the same time would say it is a fuse. The way the power windows work is that there is one positive and two negative terminals, when the switch is pressed, it creates the circuit to wind the window down, when the switch is pulled up, it creates the circuit on the other side to wind the window up. they are a very simple system in the 90 unlike what they use now. What you can do is find the offending fuse or if it is something worse, you can pull the door trim off each door, and with a 12V battery from a drill, and some wires, bridge the terminals so that the window will wind up.
      97 VX Grande, with front & rear air lockers, ARB Sahara winch bar with tigers 11 winch, 2" EFS lift, 265/75/16 Achilles Desert hawk XMT, and more.


      [B]Bitumen - A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/B]

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      • #4
        Got them going ??? But for how long

        Thanks for your suggestions. Had checked the 30 amp fuse and it was fine and the suggestion of using a drill to get them up individually is a great one for the future. Having decided that the only option was to get a new control for the drivers door I went online and discovered they cost $520 from Toyota or $350 from an after market bloke in newcastle. (In the USA they are $40 but a mirror image so not much use). Then by chance I went to a BBQ on Sunday and met an older bloke who was an auto electrician at Mercedes for 10 years. He had a look and suggested removing the drivers side control box. He made the following points

        1. If you have the central locking working then your problem is in the box in the door. They use the same power in line and fuse
        2. They are notorious for working intermittently when they get old
        3. He suggested taking the unit apart
        - it just pops out of the door by putting your finger nails or a flathead under the edges
        - unclip the wire loom
        - undo the 5 phillips head screws on the bottom
        - remove the window lock button
        - seperate the button unit from the control
        - then wipe the whole control unit down and scrape the terminal connections.

        Now I give the explanation just for anyone else because low and behold it fixed the problem. Everything is working well again BUT he did make the point that once they start going on and off like this they tend to just get worse and worse. Sometimes it takes a week, sometimes you can get several more years. Here is hoping I get several more years.

        In the mean time I am going to hunt down a replacement. It is utterly crazy that they cost 350 dollars when they can be bought in the USA for 40. Does anyone have a better suggestion on where to get one for less?

        Thanks to all

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        • #5
          I know it's an old post but the drivers window control is the same as the (I think ) 98 camry 3.0L as is a some other parts including MAF sensor . Ken
          Ken
          3.4 GXL man 1997 petrol / gas, BFG mud tyres 265 75 16, front and rear camera, Jaycar 6300Lm LED 6.5" D/L * 2, 15W LED reversing/work light, diff breathers, 42mm lift, Rear Anderson plug, Dash cam, and way too much recovery gear for one vehicle to carry around. No more HID headlamps. No more Narva D/L.

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          • #6
            Got a problem with my 97 Prado where the rear passenger side window will go down but not up using either the switch on the door or the drivers master control switch. Only way I can drive it up is by swapping polarity of wires to the motor but then it will go up but not down. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of how the switches work so I can diagnose if it's a problem with the door switch, master switch or broken wire somewhere. Have it disconnected in the meantime.
            1997 petrol auto, 430 000km. Still going strong.
            2004 petrol auto, 233 000km. Cracked dash and no help from Toyota!

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            • #7
              Pull the switches apart they get dirty and make poor contact
              Wiring will be fine

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              • #8
                Originally posted by scottkz View Post
                Pull the switches apart they get dirty and make poor contact
                Wiring will be fine
                Have done that and still no difference hence the need for a diagram.
                1997 petrol auto, 430 000km. Still going strong.
                2004 petrol auto, 233 000km. Cracked dash and no help from Toyota!

                Comment

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