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How do I keep power to the beer fridge for 7 days??

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  • #16
    Fido there are separate battery packs that you can fit temporarily. I can send you a link if you like. Then a diode, Redarc smart isolator and a manual circuit breaker and some 6B&S cable and a few lugs and an Anderson plug will get you a supply of electrons. Some of the packs also allow for solar in feed too. Easily doable in a weekend (one day if you are keen). I made up a box myself for the Rodeo but that is a bit longer. If you go DC DC that takes a bit longer as does a custom battery box like I did. Send me an email if you want the links, I won't advertise stuff I haven't used here.
    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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    • #17
      Originally posted by fido666 View Post
      I'm in the same boat as Nigel, only have a primary battery at this stage. With all the talk of cracked inner guards I'm reluctant to put a 2nd battery in the front, was thinking of a battery box setup in the rear but need a way to charge it too.
      ARB do a battery box for the 120 series which goes on the passenger side against the firewall, which is much stronger than the drivers side front quarter. Not sure if this is the same for the 150 series though...
      2009 White KDJ120R Manual fitted out for family camping and touring - See my Rig Build at [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27887-Smithy-s-Rig-Build[/url]

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
        You can set it up in the rear, still use the same dual battery kits will charge it.
        So just run wiring from the front to rear and connect via an anderson plug or similar?

        Or just take it out & leave it at camp connected to solar.
        Assuming your'e referring to the 2nd battery here. Would solar be enough to keep up the charge?

        Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
        Fido there are separate battery packs that you can fit temporarily. I can send you a link if you like.
        Do you mean the Waeco one? It's a tad on the exxy side for what it is. I also looked at the Ark packs in BCF but the manager there said I'd be better off with a battery box like the ones you use in boats.

        Then a diode, Redarc smart isolator and a manual circuit breaker and some 6B&S cable and a few lugs and an Anderson plug will get you a supply of electrons. Some of the packs also allow for solar in feed too.
        Will email you for the links, don't know much about dual battery setups.

        Originally posted by Smithy - 120 D4D View Post
        ARB do a battery box for the 120 series which goes on the passenger side against the firewall, which is much stronger than the drivers side front quarter. Not sure if this is the same for the 150 series though...
        The primary battery is already on the passenger side, don't recall there being much room left on that side. There certainly is room on the driver's side but the cracked inner guards issue is of some concern there.
        Last edited by fido666; 19-10-2013, 01:01 PM. Reason: Reply to additional post.

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        • #19
          Fido, Does your fridge have a low voltage cut out? if it did then you may well get away without needing a second battery for the GTG, during the days whilst driving your not going to have an issue, overnights are likely to be cool to cold so not likely an issue. Its really only the rest day that you would risk running out of juice to keep the fridge running. On the rest day if you started your rig for half an hour a couple of times that would use about a dollars worth of fuel and would probably get you through.

          If in the future you look at longer trips or extended stays then the dual battery will be of more use.

          I toured extensively for years without a second battery, although that was with a Eutectic fridge, but I reckon I could just about wing it with my ARB fridge which has a low voltage cut out. If your not going to do serious remote solo touring, or extended unpowered camping stops the $$ for a dual battery system might not be worth it. For the $500 + a dual battery system is going to set you back you can run the motor for a bloody long time to top up your crank battery.

          Cheers Andrew

          Cheers Andrew
          [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


          [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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          • #20
            For the budget conscious, a Techni-ice style esky with regular top ups of bags of ice at the local servo will also be fine. It will depend on how much space you have and how much food/beer you will be bringing.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by AJ120 View Post
              Fido, Does your fridge have a low voltage cut out?
              Yes it does Andrew, it's a Waeco CFX65DZ.

              if it did then you may well get away without needing a second battery for the GTG, during the days whilst driving your not going to have an issue, overnights are likely to be cool to cold so not likely an issue. Its really only the rest day that you would risk running out of juice to keep the fridge running. On the rest day if you started your rig for half an hour a couple of times that would use about a dollars worth of fuel and would probably get you through.
              That's a valid point. My only concern is our's has to be cooled to freezer temps and that draws more amps then running just as a fridge. The fridge side get's it's cool air from slots in the divider between the fridge and freezer compartment. As I understand it there is just the cooling element on the freezer side.

              If your not going to do serious remote solo touring, or extended unpowered camping stops the $$ for a dual battery system might not be worth it. For the $500 + a dual battery system is going to set you back you can run the motor for a bloody long time to top up your crank battery.
              As long as I don't use up all my juice on the drive days LOL.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by fido666 View Post
                The primary battery is already on the passenger side, don't recall there being much room left on that side. There certainly is room on the driver's side but the cracked inner guards issue is of some concern there.
                The arb tray for the 120 series requires the fuel pump to be moved, but is a simple job and good instructions provided. Check my rig build for photos. I don't know if the 150 has a different configuration though...
                2009 White KDJ120R Manual fitted out for family camping and touring - See my Rig Build at [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27887-Smithy-s-Rig-Build[/url]

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                • #23
                  I think if you do some research you'll find reports of the cranking battery guard also cracking,
                  therefore not much difference putting a battery on the drivers side.

                  I also think from memory I have seen reports of the ARB tray cracking the fire wall.

                  Friend who did a lot of camping without a frdge used to use an esky and frozen chickens
                  instead of ice, said it was easier to get a frozen chook at times than ice and when the chicken
                  thaws you cook it and eat it

                  Leigh
                  HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by fido666 View Post
                    Yes it does Andrew, it's a Waeco CFX65DZ.



                    That's a valid point. My only concern is our's has to be cooled to freezer temps and that draws more amps then running just as a fridge. The fridge side get's it's cool air from slots in the divider between the fridge and freezer compartment. As I understand it there is just the cooling element on the freezer side.



                    As long as I don't use up all my juice on the drive days LOL.
                    You have plenty of time to have a trial run before now and April, whack the fridge in the car, plug it in with a similar load to what you might have on the trip and see how it goes, theory is all well and good but nothing like trying it and measuring how much power it uses.

                    With a dual zone you could take a 2 litre milk container full of water, freeze it during the day when driving and whack it in the fridge over night to help out.

                    Cheers Andrew
                    [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


                    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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                    • #25
                      Have literally only just unpacked the fridge from the box it came in, trying it on 240v indoors just to make sure it works. Was planning on chucking it in the car to see how it goes on 12v. The Kakadu only has a 220v outlet in the rear though, no 12v outlet oddly enough. I can use the 12v at the back of the center console but it only seems to provide power when the ignition is set to "on".
                      Last edited by fido666; 19-10-2013, 04:28 PM. Reason: typo

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                      • #26
                        Just be mindful of the maximum load of the 220v outlet in the rear Fido... ( 2.5A I think) which is approx 30W


                        Sent from my iPhone thingy
                        2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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                        • #27
                          The 220v outlet in my Kakadu is rated for 100W devices, I'm assuming it would be less efficient then running direct from 12v though.

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                          • #28
                            How do I keep power to the beer fridge for 7 days??

                            Stand corrected....and yes it would be less efficient than 12V as there are losses when stepping the 12v up to 220v


                            Sent from my iPhone thingy
                            2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by craigm View Post
                              Stand corrected....and yes it would be less efficient than 12V as there are losses when stepping the 12v up to 220v


                              Sent from my iPhone thingy
                              And back down to 12v again in the fridge. The 12v outlets in the Prado are at best marginal for a fridge. It's an easy job to run a dedicated fridge circuit.

                              Cheers Andrew
                              [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


                              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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                              • #30
                                One option I've used but is not mentioned here.....camp somewhere where it gets v cold at night, leave the carton of beer under the camper. Stays cold enough to be quite ok even late in the arvo for around the fire, but before breaking out a fine Shiraz.
                                Cheers...hic.
                                Ron
                                2013 Land Rover Discovery 4 SDV6 SE
                                Ex 2008 Toyota Prado 120 VX, D4D
                                Ex 1997 Toyota Prado 90 GXL, V6
                                Ex 1988 Mitsubishi Pajero V6
                                Ex 1986 Suzuki Sierra

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