Solar Panel / Regulator / Monitor Installation

[BigDog816 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BigDog816]

G'day guys,

I have a few questions about my Solar Panel Install. I've got myself a Redarc Panel and Regulator and the remote monitor.



The regulator is not suited for an under bonnet install, so that leaves me with two spots to install, up out of the way in the passenger foot well, or under the seat, or in the back in the little recess on the side (where my fuse block is). My preference is in the back, but the manual says to install as close to the AUX battery as possible (mine is under the bonnet)

The main question is

If you have a look at these two sketches can you tell me if there is any real difference, the connection between my Aux Battery and the rear fuse block is a decent sized cable, would need to check but from memory it was one size bigger than I worked out I needed. I understand there will be a little voltage drop, but my question is more about, by connecting directly to the battery (or not), does that offer any sort of extra protection to my accessories? I'm mainly worried about my fridge, and I can see how by connecting the solar to the fuse block, I'm sort of connecting directly to the fridge.



I guess the way i'm looking at it, is that the cables are just acting like an extension of the battery terminals, and does it matter which end I connect to? I could run more large cables from rear to front for the panel, but I think it will just be easier to install the regulator up front somewhere.

Also would be interested to know,

Where did you install your regulator?

How did you fix your panel in place, I like the ABR sidewinder slide, and will attempt something similar when I have more time,in the meantime i'm going to bolt it down in the basket.

Thinking of cutting off the MC4 connectors on the panel and replacing with an Anderson Plug, would anyone advise against this?

The manual only says to install a fuse on the positive cable between the battery and the regulator, should the cable to the panel be fused? Or would this protected by the regulator.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Big Dog.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

It is always better to have the charger and heavy loads as close as possible to the battery
to avoid loses.

Having said that practicalities also come into it, my regulator is mounted on the back of
the solar panels for convenience.

I don't use a DCDC device so that does not come into the equation.

I wouldn't bother changing the connectors unless you have an issue with them.

Cheers
Leigh

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Leigh is spot on (again), in the 120 I had the panel regulator mounted to the panels and then patched that to the auxiliary though an Anderson plug. With the 150 and also now with the Rodeo I am running a DC DC charger with a built in MPPT controller so the raw feed from the panels just goes to that. The input is controlled by a relay which triggers when the engine is running and >13.2V is available from the main battery.

I never had any problems with the 120 though I have been told by a solar specialist that you should disconnect solar when the engine is running to prevent back emf potentially burning out the diodes in the panels/regulator. Like I said never had a problem with that in something like 4 years with the 120.

EDIT: The only thing I should add is that you really should run both the +ve and -ve cables from the solar panel to the battery terminals so that the solar regulator sees the true voltage across the battery. Should be the same but if there is a dodgy earth or resistance in the connection to the earth the regulator may not work 100%.

[BigDog816 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BigDog816]

It is always better to have the charger and heavy loads as close as possible to the battery
to avoid loses.

Having said that practicalities also come into it, my regulator is mounted on the back of
the solar panels for convenience.

I don't use a DCDC device so that does not come into the equation.

I wouldn't bother changing the connectors unless you have an issue with them.

Cheers
Leigh

Leigh,

Do you have a relay installed for when the engine is running, as mentioned by mjrandom? I'm not planning on this as there is no mention of it in the install manual.

Matt.

[BigDog816 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BigDog816]

Leigh is spot on (again), in the 120 I had the panel regulator mounted to the panels and then patched that to the auxiliary though an Anderson plug. With the 150 and also now with the Rodeo I am running a DC DC charger with a built in MPPT controller so the raw feed from the panels just goes to that. The input is controlled by a relay which triggers when the engine is running and >13.2V is available from the main battery.

I never had any problems with the 120 though I have been told by a solar specialist that you should disconnect solar when the engine is running to prevent back emf potentially burning out the diodes in the panels/regulator. Like I said never had a problem with that in something like 4 years with the 120.

EDIT: The only thing I should add is that you really should run both the +ve and -ve cables from the solar panel to the battery terminals so that the solar regulator sees the true voltage across the battery. Should be the same but if there is a dodgy earth or resistance in the connection to the earth the regulator may not work 100%.

Thanks Mj was going to run two cables as you mention. For the rear fuse block I have 2cables and an earth to the body.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Leigh,

Do you have a relay installed for when the engine is running, as mentioned by mjrandom? I'm not planning on this as there is no mention of it in the install manual.

Matt.

Matt I assume in mjrandom case he is using the relay to control the DCDC charger
input, either charging of alternator or mppt, mjrandom will fill you in.

I'm assuming your model doesn't have the solar input function so is not applicable to you.

I don't have a DCDC charger, I'm using a Rotronics independent charge setup with a
booster diode on the alternator.

Solar is accomplished with panels and a mppt charger

Cheers
Leigh.

that have

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

My set up is this....
80w solar panel on the roofrack
regulator attached to the back of the wind deflector(out of the weather)
cable running down the edge of the windscreen and under the bonnet to the aux battery(short run of about 1.5m)
Oh and an anderson plug on the panel in case I want to take it off the car and attach it via an extension cord

The reason for having the reg close to the battery is that the voltage drop is more of an issue between the reg and batt than between the panel and reg(does that make sense?)

[BigDog816 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BigDog816]

Ok,

I don't have a DCDC either, I have a Redarc SBI12, one of your voltage boosters and and the regulator (PWM for now).

Thanks for the help guys, going to hook a few things up this weekend and do some tests before deciding 100% where it will go in the vehicle.

Matt.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

What I said only refers to the use of a DC DC system with in built MPPT controller.

[BigDog816 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BigDog816]

What I said only refers to the use of a DC DC system with in built MPPT controller.

No worries, thanks for that.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

I don't think there is any problem with leaving the solar cell connected all the time and I did it for years but given I was told something from someone who should know I passed on the information.