Alternator not charging

[Nate Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nate]

Hi guys,

Went for my first big bash this weekend in my new Prado D4D. She handled everything really well. Just need a lift kit to get a few more hairy places.

I went through some decent puddles and on my way home i noticed the battery light come on.

I got home and turned her off. Attempted to turn it on straight away. It was completely flat. Standing volts are about 12VDC.

I jumped the car at about 12.7VDC. Removed the jumper leads and tested the voltage. It was slowly dropping from 12VDC to around 11VDC when i shut it off.

I was thinking maybe water in the socket to the alternator, or the alternator has died.

One thing i did notice is that the electrical cover was installed incorrectly. It appeared that some water had gotten into it, but all the fuses were ok. I did try to remove the alternator fuse but couldn't get it out. Does anyone know how this is removed?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Nate

[Corigator Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Corigator]

Try to wash the alternator out with high pressure water with the engine running. Its a common problem where dirt gets under the brushes.

[Nate Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nate]

Try to wash the alternator out with high pressure water with the engine running. Its a common problem where dirt gets under the brushes.

Awesome!

Fingers crossed this sorts it out. I'll give it a go.

[big-trev Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close big-trev]

Nate, this happened to me on one of thr reccies for the 2012 P/Point GTG.Check your fuses under the dash.I had three of them that had blown and this stopped the alternator from charging.

[Nate Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nate]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the recommendations.

I tried washing the alternator out with a pressure hose while the car was running.

Checked every fuse under the bonnet and inside the dash. No luck with either unfortunately.

Im starting to think that maybe my alternator has carked it.

[Nate Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nate]

OK, i have removed the alternator and looking for a replacement. Deering autronics have quoted me around $600 for a replacement. They say that an overhaul is nearly the same price.

Is it absolutley necessary to replace with a genuine Toyota / Denso part?

I have found a company called "Auto 8" that sell a aftermarker replacement and comes with a 3 year warranty.
They do it for around $199.00 plus shipping to Wa. i am waiting for a shipping quote. Cant imagine it being too much.

Has anyone used "Auto 8" Before?

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

Haven't swapped an alternator in the Prado however I used an OEX alternator in my GQ after I killed the old one. The support guys knew their stuff and suggested a higher A model that fitted straight in. http://www.oex.com.au/

[Nate Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nate]

Haven't swapped an alternator in the Prado however I used an OEX alternator in my GQ after I killed the old one. The support guys knew their stuff and suggested a higher A model that fitted straight in. http://www.oex.com.au/

Just realised i hadn't posted what the end result was.

I tried flushing out the alternator. Water & WD40. No luck. Output voltage continued to drop from around 12VDC to around 10.5VDC. So little to no output voltage from the alternator.

Ended up getting quoted from a local auto electrician for around $550.00 Inc GST. Toyota wanted closer to $700.

OEX was actually more expensive than genuine this time round. Got prices from Repco & Coventrys.

Installed it myself. Was tight getting it back into the mounting points. Belt slipped and squealed for a little while but it found its groove and all good since then.

Is this a regular issue with the Prado? If so i think i may try to go around river crossings. Too expensive of a spare part to carry around on treks.

Thanks

Nate

[cookymonsta Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close cookymonsta]

mine seems to have gone after mud - i can see the brushes moving slowly, stopping, moving faster, slowly, while engine is idling. but no charge and battery light on dash continues. I've been charging batteries every night. How did you remove alternator? I can source a denso for $400 ish wholesale. now my starter seems to be playing up. just kept getting one tick (solenoid i think) - pressed a heap of times until it started.

[HugoStiglitz Member Find all posts View Profile Close HugoStiglitz]

I had issues with my alternator after a rather deep hole (filled with sandstone muddy water)

battery light on, not charging & etc
I took the alternator out, removed the brushes from the rear of the alternator, found they were very rough and had groves in them. gave them a very light file to have them make good contact again. refitted and crossed my fingers.

all worked and only cost a few hours.

I did a post about it in my rig build up
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D-Manual/page2
its about 1/2 way down.

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

I bought this one similar from the same shop for my 120 last year. 399 plus 40 postage.


imgur

The pivot hole is larger than the bolt so when you install it you will need to centre the alternator on the bolt, if not the flat belt will chirp and screem it's head off.
Has now done 20000 no issues other than the alignment.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-T...325e026&_uhb=1

Have kept the original as a spare and carry it in the camper with all the other stuff.

Rusty.

[cookymonsta Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close cookymonsta]

i ended up taking to the mechanic after he told me would be an hour job - that's a lot quicker than i can do. Cost about $550 all up.

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Finally got the replacement alternator from the supplier. The clutch pulley had failed and was making all sorts of crackling noises after 20000 km.

Took a couple of pics from the inner guard area.

Step one:

Remove bash guard from under. Use a ratchet strap from the rear of the gearbox guard and a 14 offset ring spanner to pull the tensioner.







Pull the plugs from the rubber flap and lay over the chassis.

Original alternator in place.



Isolate the supply cable by undoing the 10mm bolt in the fuse box. Make sure you don't short it out. This saves having to take the battery terminal off and losing your presets on the radio and the clock.



10mm ring to remove the power wire off the alternator.
Remove the plug from the back of the alternator by pressing the tab and pulling (not on the wires).
12 mm socket on the bottom bolt, remove almost all the way out.
14 mm socket on the top bolt, remove all the way.

Now remove the small bolt and pull the alternator out through the inner guard.

Half way out.



New one in place.

The rest is a reverse of removing. Make sure you line the alternator central on the long bolt. If you don't the belt alignment could be out and the belt will chirp or scream. The hole for this bolt is oversize.
Don't tighten the small bolt until you have the long bolt centered.

Now tighten both bolts, re attach the power wire and cover, push the main plug in.

Replace the belt making sure all the ribs are in line.

Release the strap holding the tensioner and replace the bottom bash plate.



Tested at 14.1 just after starting with a voltage booster in circuit.

Lets see how long this one lasts.

Rusty.

[Razorback81 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Razorback81]

Lets see how long this one lasts.

Rusty.

did the first one of these fail ?

i picked a new Toyota one from an auto elec going out of business for $120

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

The original one is still serviceable but i replaced it with a higher output and just in case. The new one failed then i put the original one back in.

This one is to replace the high output.

Rusty.