Bleeding 120 series brakes, like some input please

[sandman Member Find all posts View Profile Close sandman]

Hi ALL

Looking to bleed the brakes on my May 2004 GXL prado. As its got ABS, do I need to pull a fuse on this thing or do I just ignore it and bleed as per "normal" ? With ABS, do you bleed it with the engine running or leave the key off ?

Had a look at a bunch of different options to bleed the system....

1) Traditional 2 person method, one under the car and one on the pedal/fluid. One thing that always got me here is if there is a little corrosion in the master cylinder, by undoing the slave cyclinder you are going to push the seals into the area in the master where the piston never goes which can potentially damage the seals....I remember dad in his old 67 falcon always had this issue, I was the poor bastard on the pedal and topping up the cylinder :-)

2) One way valve on the slave...Those supercheap auto things any good ? It looks like it is as per above except you don't need monkey under the car all the time.

3) Some sort of pressure bleeder that screws onto the master cylinder, not sure where you get those from.

I'd prefer to do this myself and dick about till its perfect...

Appreciate any "experiences" :-)

Pete

[sunny120 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close sunny120]

No fuses to pull. You can either have the car running or simply just leave the ignition on whilst bleeding. 2 person method is probably the easiest. Bleeding sequence should be LR, RR, LF, RF. If you have one of those electric brake master setups it is very different to bleed than just a standard one.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Hi ALL

Looking to bleed the brakes on my May 2004 GXL prado. As its got ABS, do I need to pull a fuse on this thing or do I just ignore it and bleed as per "normal" ? With ABS, do you bleed it with the engine running or leave the key off ?

Had a look at a bunch of different options to bleed the system....

1) Traditional 2 person method, one under the car and one on the pedal/fluid. One thing that always got me here is if there is a little corrosion in the master cylinder, by undoing the slave cyclinder you are going to push the seals into the area in the master where the piston never goes which can potentially damage the seals....I remember dad in his old 67 falcon always had this issue, I was the poor bastard on the pedal and topping up the cylinder :-)

2) One way valve on the slave...Those supercheap auto things any good ? It looks like it is as per above except you don't need monkey under the car all the time.

3) Some sort of pressure bleeder that screws onto the master cylinder, not sure where you get those from.

I'd prefer to do this myself and dick about till its perfect...

Appreciate any "experiences" :-)

Pete

You should have a standard braking system with the vacuum booster.
No need to leave a key on.
You are on the right track with the crap in the master cylinder.
Avoid pumping will help prevent the possibility of causing damage.

Gravity bleed the brakes!

[Bear63 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bear63]

I have never had to use any special tools to bleed the accumulator type brakes Roo , just have the key on , we do them pretty much every week

[Bms Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bms]

For the people with the accumulator type ABS brake assembly, you will need a diagnostic tool like the Intelligent Tester Tool II to bleed the brakes. You can easily tell these units, as there is no traditional booster unit there.

Hi guys,

I was planning on bleeding my brakes and changing over front pads on friday... until i stumbled accross this.

I have bled brakes on an much older car before (drum brakes, no abs etc) and figured it was much the same, but thought i'd read up on pradopoint to make sure i wasn't about to do something wrong.

Looking under the bonnet, I think i have this Accumulator type brake setup. There is a link to a photo of what i have below.

What do i need to do different with this setup?

My plan was...
Remove fluid from cylinder to the min line, and change the front pads first.
Then i was going to top the fluid back up this new fluid, start at furthest wheel and work my way toward the cylinder.

As far as bleeding goes, i was going to attach a hose to the valve, and have a mate working the pedal and keeping an eye on the cylinder doing long slow pumps while i watched the fluid coming out of the valve. Once new fluid and no bubbles etc coming out, tighten the valve while he has was pressing the pedal.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...2/IMG_1962.jpg

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Hi guys,

I was planning on bleeding my brakes and changing over front pads on friday... until i stumbled accross this.

I have bled brakes on an much older car before (drum brakes, no abs etc) and figured it was much the same, but thought i'd read up on pradopoint to make sure i wasn't about to do something wrong.

Looking under the bonnet, I think i have this Accumulator type brake setup. There is a link to a photo of what i have below.

What do i need to do different with this setup?

My plan was...
Remove fluid from cylinder to the min line, and change the front pads first.
Then i was going to top the fluid back up this new fluid, start at furthest wheel and work my way toward the cylinder.

As far as bleeding goes, i was going to attach a hose to the valve, and have a mate working the pedal and keeping an eye on the cylinder doing long slow pumps while i watched the fluid coming out of the valve. Once new fluid and no bubbles etc coming out, tighten the valve while he has was pressing the pedal.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...2/IMG_1962.jpg

When it comes to brakes & d.i.y you have to be very carefull.
I would say you could refer to post #5

[psychophat Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close psychophat]

I have never had to use any special tools to bleed the accumulator type brakes Roo , just have the key on , we do them pretty much every week

Do I have to start the vehicle or just click on?

How do I know if I have the booster thinggy?

---

Do all 120's have them, mine's a VX.

[kevdebbi Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close kevdebbi]

Do I have to start the vehicle or just click on?

How do I know if I have the booster thinggy?

---

Do all 120's have them, mine's a VX.

You don't need to start the car just turn the ignition on, you should hear the electric pump start which pressurises the accumulator. I have included a picture of the accumulator style of brake booster below. Assuming yours is the same as the Australian VX model you should defiantly have this style of brake system. I have bled mine several times and never had any problems.

[muzza_ Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close muzza_]

Ive just replaced my master cylinder on my 2008 VX have bleed the brakes and obtained a solid brake pedal.
All is good until i put the car in gear and as soon as the car moves about a metre the Vsc ,Trc and Stability control lights come on.
I replaced with a genuine complete master cylinder assembly $2500.00 do i need to reset something in the electrics on the car.
Thanks

[lortap Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close lortap]

Ive just replaced my master cylinder on my 2008 VX have bleed the brakes and obtained a solid brake pedal.
All is good until i put the car in gear and as soon as the car moves about a metre the Vsc ,Trc and Stability control lights come on.
I replaced with a genuine complete master cylinder assembly $2500.00 do i need to reset something in the electrics on the car.
Thanks

You shouldnt need to. Did you bleed with the vehicle running? All the plugs back together? Any leaks in brake line nuts?

[muzza_ Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close muzza_]

You shouldnt need to. Did you bleed with the vehicle running? All the plugs back together? Any leaks in brake line nuts?

All sorted Took car to Toyota they spent quite a few hours diagnosing it and came back saying there was an open circuit between computer and Master cylinder . Funny how even when the brake pedal sank to the floor none of these lights were on. Replace complete Master cylinder with sensors and this happens .
Very costly week for the Prado.