ProVent HP200 styled Oil Catch Cans

[Chip It Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chip It]

I have a small quality (50x) of Provent style Oil Catch Cans. These are on sale for $160.00 plus $18.00 freight.

They are a Chip Tuning Brand but same as the Provent 200

The reason we stock these is because the outlet/inlet are the same size as the factory diameter. Oil catch cans from eBay etc with reducers to take them to a much smaller diameter inlet can pressurise the sump and cause oil to weep from the crank seals etc.

If you forum members are interested I will do a forum special of 20% off for a limited time.

Item Code is HP200

Click here to see product in store

Replacement filters are available

They need to be changed out same as the Mann Provent type ... about 20-25K KMS. But if you are careful they can be washed.

Pics of the replacement filters can be seen via link below

Click here

Cheers

The 20% discount is for 5 days only

Robert

[Chip It Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chip It]

Some more info and more pics

Hi guys

Here is my opinion on Oil Catch Cans and why fitting them is a good idea (with provisions)

I wrote this elsewhere so you may see it around.

The common mistake made when buying an Oil Catch Can is that people are fitting units that reduce the size of the breather tubes. For the professional aftermarket parts developer the mantra is to keep to the same design performance as the OEM manufacturer ... OR BETTER.

By keeping to this set of guidelines, upgrading your vehicle with after-market parts will not compromise on safety or reliability.

In this case for Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Systems keeping to the OEM manufacturer's design rules means having no less an outlet breather tube size than original. Oil catch cans need to be of the same diameter as that of the OEM. There is a reason for this: The manufacturer is concerned with keeping the crankcase free of pressure build up.

Cheap $40.00 oil catch cans from eBay etc with have tiny 10 -12mm inlets/outlets, or fittings acting as reducers, reduce the flow rates of the PCV System thus causing back-pressure in the crankcase. This build-up of pressure causes engine oil to weep from the crankcase seals etc as they were not made to hold pressure.

Pound for pound, diesel engines have more blow-by past the rings than petrol engines and thus flow through the PVC System is higher. We certainly do not want to hold back any pressure here.

I have found one type of Oil Catch Can that fits the bill.

A GOOD CATCH CAN

These specially made Hi Performance ProVent HP200 Oil Catch Can do an excellent job of filtering out the oil from the crankcase gasses that are re-entering the engine through the factory setup … and they do this WITHOUT restricting flow.

In this picture you can see the very large inlet and outlet size. Bigger than any other oil catch can!

INLET/OUTLETS

In my opinion, superior to any other style of Oil Catch Can for another reason, it has 2 relief valves. (most other types have none). One is situated on the inlet side to relieve high pressure, the other on the outlet side to relieve any low pressure. Again, this stops any pressure build up even if the filter becomes blocked from you not cleaning it. Its a great engine safe guard!

RELIEF VALVE

Keeping the oil out of the air intake will benefit in 2 ways

Firstly, oil mist in the air intake entering into the combustion chamber will reduce the octane rating of the combustible fuel. Mainly in petrol engines, this leads to a symptom called "pre-ignition". Pre-ignition is one of the quickest ways to damage cylinder heads, piston crowns and piston rings.

Secondly, (and the main reason) oil entering into the intake manifold combines with the heated gases of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) (300-400 deg Cel) and literally bakes to form carbon build-up in the manifold. This carbon build-up, over a relatively short period, restricts the volume of air that would normally be allowed to flow through the manifold into the combustion chamber. (See pictures). The less flow, the less performance. This is well noted on late model Mitsubishi, Toyota and Nissan vehicles.

Partially Blocked Manifold 1

Partially Blocked Manifold 2

Partially Blocked Manifold 3

The first 3 pictures of manifold above were taken of a late model diesel's intake manifolds having 160,000kms on the clock. (3.2 Litre Mitsubishi Paj)

This next pic shows a manifold from a vehicle that had less than 70,000kms on the clock

Partially Blocked Manifold 4

The next one is a pic from a 200 Series Land Cruiser EGR port showing the soot that comes in (along with the 300- 400 deg temps.)

What your engine is breathing from the EGR System

The ProVent HP200 Oil Catch Can has a replaceable element. Maintenance on these is easy too since no actual fittings or pipework is removed to replace / clean filter element.

The last picture shows a CLEANED intake manifold. (same manifold as shown above in the first 3 pics) If you could start with this and add the Oil Catch Can then this would be best.

CLEANED MANIFOLD

Looking at this pic and comparing with the ones above does it look like No 4 cylinder was getting no air at all !!

This is what I am finding in our modern diesels

Hope this helps

Cheers

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Pics of my under body instal of ProVent contained within the 120 Diesel Engine thread.

[Chip It Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chip It]

Bushranger can post up a link pls?

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...703#post381703

Dave

[Chip It Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chip It]

Thanks Dave

[winniliss Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close winniliss]

I have a 120 series D4D. Just confirming what size is the pipe coming out of the rocker cover? I know the catch can itself ID is 23-24mm.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

From memory it's 3/4inch (19mm) ID.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

To make this job a little easier I'll pass on my adaption:

If you go to super cheap you can purchase a heater hose for holden VC/VL
type number is CH1687, this hose has a 90 degree bend on one end is long
for both runs if Provent is mounted on the drivers side guard.

I made a bracket to mount on the drivers guard and used existed threaded
mounts.

The heater hose is pretty much the identical size to the original Toyota hose used for
the bend to connect the PVC pipe to the rocker cover, apply a bit of oil to the rubber
makes fitting a lot easier, I clamped the pipe but it is really not needed as there is
little pressure in the system and eventually the rubber will adhere to the metal making
removal hard anyway.

At the provent end if found the tubing to be a good press fit into the ports so instead
of using larger tubes and reducers I opted to apply a thin film of silicon to the inside of
the ports and the outside of the heater hose and pressed it into the ports about 20mm.

I then used thick wall adhesive coated heat shrink over the out port and the tube to
ensure it won't come out.

I don't see any problem with keeping to the original size hose as the gas flow will be
small, generally the sump is under a slight vacuum, the only time you will get significant
flow will be under catastrophic engine failure of a very worn out engine ie rings shot
under which events the standard system would not cope either. If you still have concerns
about flow rate have a look at the PCV valve on a petrol engine, the port size is only about
3-4mm compared to the 17mm hose.

To keep the tubes neat I plastic welded some 3/4 inch garden poly pipe clamps together
to make clamps similar to ones Toyota used to hold hoses together, I also used one clamp
for abrasive protection where the top hose sits against one of the inter cooler brackets.

For collecting the oil I have purchased a gocart overlfow bottle tank and bracket
for around $16 from www.cartbay.com.au and mounted that in front of the radiator
on one of the winch mount brackets. It holds enough that I won't have to empty for
quite awhile and can be easily removed if required for emptying though I will just
use my gear box filler syringe to suck it out.

I would post pictures but its a pain in the arse on this forum, easier to send via
message.

The finished job looks factory.

I wouldn't bother mounting provent in front of the radiator for cooling as this does
not make sense, oil evaporates at a very high temperature, it is not the vapour your try
to catch, it is the suspend droplets in the gas flow. It is probably better for the provent to
be warm to help the oil move through the filter membrane and drain.

Cheers
LeighW

[winniliss Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close winniliss]

Cheers for the size Bushbasher. LeighW I had a look in my engine bay and I have no room what so ever. I have two options. Mount inside bull bar or up inside the chassis rail. Going 4x4 today as we have had plenty of rain. Will have a look tomorrow.

Cheers

Winston.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

It's not a good idea to use heater hose (R3) because it is not rated for oil or emissions. R6 hose is what you should really use.
It's hard to get at the moment too, because the Purple Pig has been taken over. I have been waiting months now for a roll.
The Roo.

I really don't see an issue with using heater hose for this application, heater hose is "oil resistant" it has to be to withstand modern coolants and as it is used in an automotive environment.

In this application it is not transporting fuel to injectors or oil for lubrication or other items of equipment that could be damaged/ blocked if it were to break down and is not subject to more active fuel oil etc, only engine oil.

Even if it did break down it would end up in the provent or catch can, and you would some become aware of a problem.

Considering the cost saving and the convenience of it having a bend moulded into it I'll stick with the heater hose.

Cheers
Leigh

[winniliss Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close winniliss]

I checked the photo. I have an Endless Air compress in the way. Catch can needs to go under the vehicle.

[winniliss Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close winniliss]

That's a bummer Winston. It would of looked good like that.
Look, if you have already done the job with heater hose, just leave it at that because it's not that important. But if you are starting a new install, then the correct hose to use is the emission type hose being R6 specification. This is just the correct hose to use.
John.

I haven't done the job yet. Going to install my roof console first and relocate my UHF into it (currently sitting under the passenger seat).

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Have just finished installing a Provent 200 to my 120 series. Will post pics later. Had to remount the air compressor up further towards the firewall and bend a piece of 20 x 3 steel to space it away from the mudguard. The lift strut is just away and can just fit my hand down to the air cleaner lugs.
The price I paid was better than others (can't say real amount) but sometimes it's who you know. Will need to buy better tube than the heater hose I am using now, but like a lot of things it can wait a couple of weeks.
Next job is to upgrade the fuel filter to a 2 micron unit.
John has seen what little space I have left but will squeeze it in somehow.

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

On the subject of the Provent has anyone had the check valves make noise at low RPM. Sounds like a old Perkins diesel.