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  • #61
    So are the plates that are standard on the front of 95 series suitable recovery points or not?

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    • #62
      Originally posted by Ryan View Post
      So are the plates that are standard on the front of 95 series suitable recovery points or not?
      Doesn't seem like they are but it appears a fair few people use them.
      [B][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?30380-Ratsack-s-90-Series-Prado"]Toyota Prado GXL Kimberly - 95 Series - 3.4L V6[/URL][/B]

      [QUOTE=maulbeagle;469810]Have heard that the fuel consumption of the petrol engine is horrendous ?[/QUOTE]
      [QUOTE=amts;469812]Heard that a replacement D4D engine is horrendous [/QUOTE]

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      • #63
        So... From what i can see there arent any commercial recovery points for the 90 series and none of the members here are making any or have i missed something. Never been a fan of the hook so would am in the market for a pair.
        2014 VX D4D. Dobinson 2 inch lift. TJM T3 Bullbar. rhino platform. TraxRax. Maxtrax. Dual batteries. GME TX3450.
        Setup to tow Crusader Muskateer caravan

        Comment


        • #64
          Hi Ian,

          Originally posted by Ian Reid View Post
          So... From what i can see there arent any commercial recovery points for the 90 series and none of the members here are making any or have i missed something. Never been a fan of the hook so would am in the market for a pair.
          Like others on here I replaced the tow hook with rated hook recovery hooks (that have the captive metal bit - hook on each chassis rail). They work really well (well few times I've had to use them), not sure why you want anything different? I think you'll just be paying more money for no real benefit (that I can see - besides storing some shackles outside - but I dont see that as a benefit). The captive flap / bit sometimes needs to be bend back to be right up against the hook but that only happens is someone has bent them back on you (a friendly head slap fixes that so they dont do it again).

          Chris

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Ian Reid View Post
            So... From what i can see there arent any commercial recovery points for the 90 series and none of the members here are making any or have i missed something. Never been a fan of the hook so would am in the market for a pair.
            Yep nothing being sold specifically for the 90 in shops or here. I did find a hook locally in the in the past, but the bolts don't fit, and suitable replacements are bulk supply only (I was lucky to get a couple samples). If there's enough interest here I could probably work something out...
            glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

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            • #66
              Originally posted by cbrk View Post
              Hi Ian,



              Like others on here I replaced the tow hook with rated hook recovery hooks (that have the captive metal bit - hook on each chassis rail). They work really well (well few times I've had to use them), not sure why you want anything different? I think you'll just be paying more money for no real benefit (that I can see - besides storing some shackles outside - but I dont see that as a benefit). The captive flap / bit sometimes needs to be bend back to be right up against the hook but that only happens is someone has bent them back on you (a friendly head slap fixes that so they dont do it again).

              Chris
              Chris do you use an equaliser strap and connect to both hooks? I,m wondering if that works ok cos i assume it spreads the load stresses and reduces stress on the anchors
              Cheers
              Ian
              2014 VX D4D. Dobinson 2 inch lift. TJM T3 Bullbar. rhino platform. TraxRax. Maxtrax. Dual batteries. GME TX3450.
              Setup to tow Crusader Muskateer caravan

              Comment


              • #67
                Originally posted by cbrk View Post
                Hi Ian,



                Like others on here I replaced the tow hook with rated hook recovery hooks (that have the captive metal bit - hook on each chassis rail). They work really well (well few times I've had to use them), not sure why you want anything different? I think you'll just be paying more money for no real benefit (that I can see - besides storing some shackles outside - but I dont see that as a benefit). The captive flap / bit sometimes needs to be bend back to be right up against the hook but that only happens is someone has bent them back on you (a friendly head slap fixes that so they dont do it again).

                Chris
                If all you do is dry dirt driving on flat roads then the hooks will suffice and are nice and quick to implement.

                If you get stuck in deep mud or water, then you will find that the forward movement of the vehicle will push the strap off of the hook. The silly little metal strip that pretends to hold the strap onto the hook does nothing to help, it just folds down flat. Cable ties help hold the strap on but they also usually fall off.
                Rather annoying to have a truck chassis deep in mud and have the strap fall off the hook. Damned difficult to find again.

                Also, consider that you are being pulled up a hillside and for some reason both cars apply brakes. If the tug falls back a bit, the strap will likely fall off and when he moves forward, you are disconnected and as you have just released your brake, you have shot backwards down teh hill with potentially bad results.

                Thats why we want better recovery points than hooks.
                Malcom
                Prado 95 TX turbo diesel
                LC100 GXL turbo diesel

                Comment


                • #68
                  Originally posted by Ian Reid View Post
                  Chris do you use an equaliser strap and connect to both hooks? I,m wondering if that works ok cos i assume it spreads the load stresses and reduces stress on the anchors
                  Cheers
                  Ian
                  I always use both hooks with an equaliser for a straight ahead pull as there is less stress to the chassis but the downside is that there's is a greater chance of one end falling off the dumb hooks.
                  Malcom
                  Prado 95 TX turbo diesel
                  LC100 GXL turbo diesel

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Yeah i figured that would be best. You feed the equaliser through the eye of the snatch strap? I reckon reducing the metal bits that could let loose is best


                    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                    2014 VX D4D. Dobinson 2 inch lift. TJM T3 Bullbar. rhino platform. TraxRax. Maxtrax. Dual batteries. GME TX3450.
                    Setup to tow Crusader Muskateer caravan

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Yup, thread the equaliser through the eye of the snatch strap.

                      I use a tree trunk protector strap for the equaliser. You want something short, say around 3 meters.
                      Malcom
                      Prado 95 TX turbo diesel
                      LC100 GXL turbo diesel

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Ian Reid View Post
                        Chris do you use an equaliser strap and connect to both hooks? I,m wondering if that works ok cos i assume it spreads the load stresses and reduces stress on the anchors
                        Cheers
                        Ian
                        Hi Ian,

                        I do have an equaliser strap but usually don't use it (it's just a 3m tree trunk protector - about to change to a 3.5-4m dyneema version). It depends on how stuck I am, where the pull will come from, etc. Without going into too much detail make sure it's not too short, as the shorter it is the more load will be on each hook. I've found 3m a bit short from a load distribution perspective, 5m is too long though (too easy to catch on stuff if nothing holds it up).

                        If I know going into an environment where it can go bad (ie: will have a large proportion of the vehicle deep in mud) then I put it on preemptively. Otherwise I just pull of the one hook. Just make sure you get bolts that are the right thread, I think they are M12 1.25 (cant remember the length, I can check when I get home) from memory, make sure you don't reuse the short ones that are there already.

                        I've never had the problem some others are reporting about the captive piece, mine stay in place, even in deep mud and the odd rock strike..... Not saying it wont happen, just hasn't happened to me or anyone else I know who use similar hooks.

                        Hope it helps.

                        Regards,

                        Chris

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Thanks Chris
                          I was wondering about a short equaliser actually pulling the chassis inwards as well as forwards.
                          Was also thinking about pre rigging the equaliser before going in. Think i will just put the hooks on and suck it and see. If it becomes an issue then i can do things differently later
                          Cheers
                          Ian


                          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                          2014 VX D4D. Dobinson 2 inch lift. TJM T3 Bullbar. rhino platform. TraxRax. Maxtrax. Dual batteries. GME TX3450.
                          Setup to tow Crusader Muskateer caravan

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            I bought a pair of the rated hooksyears ago, then the bolts with the correct thread, yes they wer not supplied with the correct bolts.
                            The spring strip got bent quite a few times and was annoying but easily straitened.
                            The car had a little mishap and the bullbar was replaced with a different brand, only to discover the hooks no longer fitted, they were too long.
                            After looking around like everyone else and not finding anything that fitted, I ended up making my own. I got some 10mm think 100mm x100mm angle iron and cut and drilled them into shape.

                            Have used them a few times over the past 2 years and they work fine.

                            I used the old hooks to lineup the holes for the bolts and lots of filing to get it them to look smooth after cutting them into shape with an oxy torch.

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                            • #74
                              G'day.
                              I know it's an old thread but I'm looking to replace the recovery points up front on my 95 series.
                              Anyone making them still?

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                              • #75
                                I’d love to know if these are still available as I’d love to grab a set.

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