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Thread: Screwing up bolts on the dump pipe d4d

  1. #1
    Advanced Member Ghost's Avatar
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    Screwing up bolts on the dump pipe d4d

    Hey Guys, I'm stumped, been fighting with the nuts on the dump pipe all day, I have got the bottom one off, the right hand side is completely rounded, and I'm real concerned with rounding the top left one, i have soaked these heaps heated it up cooled it down. I'm looking at maybe removing the turbo and cutting the bolts off and installing some new ones . From what I can see the manifold outlet to the turbo has three bolts. Any idea how to get the very back one. My other option is to take it to an exhaust place and pay for it to be done, which will cost $120/ hour and they reckon it will take a couple of hours. Any help would be much appreciated.
    2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

    Ghosts Build thread :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D4D-Auto-build

  2. #2
    Addicted PP Member samo's Avatar
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    with the rounded off bolt have you tried next size down and hammering it on, and when you heated the nuts up did you heat then to a bright orange, and try to remove them when they were hot?
    had an 03 gx 120 with some gear now got a 2013 bt 50 GT auto some ARB gear.

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    Admin #3! Matty & Loz's Avatar
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    I had a similar issue with the dump pipe on MLCs rig when I did the exhaust for his...

    Solution was to find the CORRECT size torx ring spanner to fit the actual stud and undo that instead of continuing to work on the nut which was rounded. And after a little fear of breaking the stud, alot of WD40 and a portable gas torch I managed to work it out 1/16 or a turn at a time.

    Once the stud was out, it was as easy as undoing the nut with my fingers - definitely a rust bind between the nut and the dump pipe.

    Unfortunately, once that nut is stripped of the corners, and because to the awkward angle - theres no chance of getting it any other way!!! No space for vise grips, or multi-grips and certainly no room for smashing on a smaller spanner with a hammer.

    As a time line - nut closest to the wheel arch - 1 hour to remove. Bottom nut - 8 hours to remove. Top nut up next to the engine - 9 hours (the one requiring the torx spanner).

    Its not easy - but it can be done!
    2007 D4D 120 GXL Automatic - BLACK

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    Admin #3! Matty & Loz's Avatar
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    A side note - do not replace them with toyota nuts - pick up some of the self locking stainless nuts used on race car exhausts from a fastners supplier and use a stainless washer between that and the dump pipe.



    Will reduce the chance of a bind happening again and the mild steel supplied orginally are simply too soft!!!

    Clever use of sockets, universal joint and extensions will make life easier too...



    More photos on MLCs buildup page...
    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ande-MLC/page5
    Last edited by Matty & Loz; 18-06-2012 at 05:52 PM. Reason: added link
    2007 D4D 120 GXL Automatic - BLACK

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    Advanced Member Ghost's Avatar
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    Thanks a bunch guys, yea it's a right PITA! And I hadnt heated to red hot, luckily mackayvx happened to give me a call and offered his body and nifty extra blow torch, so I'm going to call it quits for tonight and we will both give it a go tomorrow morning.. But wow! What a tight job! Thought this would be a pain but it's certainly taken that to a new level!!
    2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

    Ghosts Build thread :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D4D-Auto-build

  6. #6
    Advanced Member Ghost's Avatar
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    Also did go to an exhaust place and got some new nuts but they arnt stainless steel, look like beefy units tho, not those crappy Toyota unit that were originally on!
    2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

    Ghosts Build thread :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D4D-Auto-build

  7. #7
    Admin #3! Matty & Loz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost View Post
    Also did go to an exhaust place and got some new nuts but they arnt stainless steel, look like beefy units tho, not those crappy Toyota unit that were originally on!
    yeah, unfortunately wrote the post before looking back at what i did - never updated the details. They are 13mm head instead of the toyota 12mm head. On that - high-tensile should have been my description not stainless.
    2007 D4D 120 GXL Automatic - BLACK

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    Advanced Member Ghost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matty & Loz View Post
    yeah, unfortunately wrote the post before looking back at what i did - never updated the details. They are 13mm head instead of the toyota 12mm head. On that - high-tensile should have been my description not stainless.
    To easy mate, I dare say these are very similar, 13 mm def high tensile units. I have put about half of the new exhaust back on left off the dump pipe (for obvious reasons) and the cat pipe, it's a nice unit that's for sure!
    2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

    Ghosts Build thread :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D4D-Auto-build

  9. #9
    Where did you get the dump pipe from? Did you buy it alone, or did it come with a full exhaust?
    I have been eyeing off a dump pipe on ebay, but it costs about $400.00 from memory.
    2008 Diesel Prado with extra stuff added. I drive it on the road and other places too.

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    Advanced Member Ghost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davros View Post
    Where did you get the dump pipe from? Did you buy it alone, or did it come with a full exhaust?
    I have been eyeing off a dump pipe on ebay, but it costs about $400.00 from memory.
    Hi Davros,

    The beudesert systems come complete with dump pipe, high flow cat converter, pretty good really. But man are those toyota crappy bolts on that dump pipe need some real work.
    2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

    Ghosts Build thread :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D4D-Auto-build

  11. #11
    Advanced Member Ghost's Avatar
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    hey matty just read MLC i mean your install of his manta system, mate feel your pain! am looking forward to having Drew with me tomorrow. two heads are better then one... been reading through my "awesome" ebay d4d manual.... that should read waste of $17!! cant seem to find out how to remove the trubo from the prado......

    This is obvoiusly a last resort, but will be nessessary if we cant budge these badboys, or snap a stud.... anyone have a manual that details this that might me able to shed some light?? my gregories manual doesnt include the 1KD engine.......
    2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

    Ghosts Build thread :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D4D-Auto-build

  12. #12
    Mate Ive just been looking thru my manual for the 1 kzte... apart from certian cosmetic differences, the procedure would be mostly the same. It looks like the turbo and exhaust manifold get removed as one unit... they then get sepaerated on the bench... that nut has to come off... we will put the heat on it - not sure if my lil torch will get it red hot though... Ill try a mate first thing in the morn for a proper portable butane welding torch - I hope he lets me use it for the day. That nut better sleep well tonight cos its gonna burn tomorrow!
    Last edited by mackayvx; 18-06-2012 at 11:01 PM.
    HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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    Admin #3! Matty & Loz's Avatar
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    Careful what your heating up, keep the heat on the nut any uneven heating of the turbo housing/vanes would probably not end well...
    2007 D4D 120 GXL Automatic - BLACK

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Matty & Loz View Post
    Careful what your heating up, keep the heat on the nut any uneven heating of the turbo housing/vanes would probably not end well...
    Good point matty, the heat would definately have to be localised to the nut. we will be speaking with the local turbo bloke first thing before we do anything. 1 phonecall might save the day.
    HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

  15. #15
    Advanced Member Ghost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mackayvx View Post
    Mate Ive just been looking thru my manual for the 1 kzte... apart from certian cosmetic differences, the procedure would be mostly the same. It looks like the turbo and exhaust manifold get removed as one unit... they then get sepaerated on the bench... that nut has to come off... we will put the heat on it - not sure if my lil torch will get it red hot though... Ill try a mate first thing in the morn for a proper portable butane welding torch - I hope he lets me use it for the day. That nut better sleep well tonight cos its gonna burn tomorrow!

    Spoke to a turbo specialist this morning and he confirmed that the only way is to remove the manifold. Have her all jacked up, wheel off another real good spray of wd40.... We will get this sucker!
    2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

    Ghosts Build thread :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...D4D-Auto-build

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