BT's Prado 150.

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Hi all, been around for a bit, though since I have a couple of mod's now I would list my own build.

2011 Prado 150 GXL D4D Auto - Graphite Colour.
No Options add.

After Market Modifications:

IronMan 2" Lift Shocks (Foam) and Springs (Heavy front and Rear).
IronMan Underbody Protection _ Ironman install
TG150 Actuator Guard - DIY Install
TJM Side Steps - DIY Install
TJM Bull Bar Colour matched - DIY Paint and Install
Oricom UHF - Remote Head - DIY Install
Dual Battery - Redarc - DIY Install
Dash mount "bridge" for Redarc - DIY Install
WARN Winch + Dash mount Controls- DIY Install
Plasma Rope for Winch - DIY Install
Redarc Trailer Brake system - DIY Install
3D Car Mats - DIY Install ;-)
Rear Cargo Power Box - DIY Made / Install
Rear Diff Breather run - DIY Install
AMTS Rear Light Bar - Remote Control - DIY Install

Cooper ST MAXX 265/70/17 for extra lift.



Will add a few posts on the installation of the bits and pieces above....

Bernie. :-)

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

TJM T13 Bull Bar Prep and Paint
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...Prep-and-Paint

TJM Side Step Install
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-Steps-Install


BT.

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Cooper ST MAXX First Impressions
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...st-Impressions

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Warn Winch Dash Controls

This was a fun idea / install;

I wanted to have winch controls on the dash but also taking that I have a 2 year old and a 4 year old I needed to protect the winch from wandering hands.

So I have setup a solenoid to control power to the winch with a key lock on the dash, so once the key is locked there is no power to the winch at all. I could have simply positioned the key lock on the "common" of the winch control, but I wanted to be able to isolate power completely from the winch (from the dash).
So the Key lock and the winch controls are totally isolated from each other....... best I could think of..

Parts used.....

1. SideWinder 100AMP Solenoid
2. winch IN/OUT Rocker Switch
3. Key lock switch.
3. Lots of cabling and head shrink
4. New 8-Tonne Hydraulic Crimper Tool (This thing is awesome!)
4. Soldering iron and so on........

Steps listed below....

1. Get everything clear and ready.


2. Wiring up Solenoid before install


3. Mounted up below the front right headlight.


Cont.....

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

4. Get all of the switch wiring ready.


5. Splice in Winch Controls


6. All Done.


Locking Switch in Dash

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

Interesting idea with the solenoid, I've been thinking about this myself. The Warn will pull 400-600A under load, I'll be interested to see how long the solenoid lasts. I've been looking at using one of the BlueSea battery switches.

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Hmmm, thats a (big) concern.... thanks D4D.

I will do some research and see what I can come up with...... Last thing I want to be doing is fishing around under the car trying to bypassing the solenoid when I'm stuck!.

....Sh$t.

Bernie.

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

No problem, looks like your winch is an XD9000, here are the current draw specs per layer
http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/XD9000.shtml

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Ok, had a quick look at the spec's for the WARN XD9000, mine is an old 9000 so I am assuming it is the same.

From the stat's below I think I would need ~180amps to pull 2 Ton, so I am thinking if I double up the 100AMP solenoids in parallel it should be good to cover most of my situations...... . Not sure what impact the "Layer" stat's have on this....

Will think some more...... big over-site, was focused on form a bit more than function

Warn 9000 Winch.
12V DC PERFORMANCE SPECS
Line Pull
Lbs.(Kgs.) FT./min(M/min.) Motor Current Pull by layer
layer/Lbs(Kgs.)
0 38(11.6) 70 amps 1/9000(4082)
2000(910) 14.4(4.39) 180 amps 2/8190(3715)
4000(1810) 11(3.35) 255 amps 3/7500(3402)
6000(2720) 8.67(2.64) 330 amps 4/7010(3180)
8000(3630) 6.88(2.10) 415 amps
9000(4080) 6.38(1.94) 460 amps

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

The 'layer' stats mean what layer of rope you have out. As you can see the more rope out the more the winch can pull however this also means higher current drawer.

You need at least a 500A capable device if you want to switch the positive and have some headroom.

You can switch the low current negative. This will disable the winch but not the high current positive.

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

So, if I switch the negative, how many amps would I need to cover?

Also, what's your opinion of how much weight is on the winch when winching up the side of a steep hill?
I would not think it would be the whole weight of the car (2 ton), however if stuck in a mud hole with suction different story.
(Every situation is different that's the issue.....)

Thanks for the info.

Bernie.

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

The motor ground in the pic is what you want to switch. In my previous winch fitting I just used a standard 12V 10A switch.



The winch can only pull as hard it is designed to pull otherwise it stalls. Therefore don't think about how much weight you have to winch, think about how hard the winch needs to work. If you're just hung up on a ledge then a short winch should suffice however if you're in mud the a long winch will be better as the winch can work harder. In this case you could also look at a double line pull with a snatch block.

[Brains Find all posts View Profile Close Brains]

Nice looking Rig Bernie, it's great to see guys that do it themselves and offer this information with photos to the rest of us out here. Great build up and some great threads on the installs you have done yourself.

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Thanks D4D.

I'll take your advice and just re-use the Solenoid for the Motor Ground and re-run new power cable straight to the winch (K.I.S.S)

I can see from the solenoid pack in the winch that the "Motor Ground" is the WARN Solenoid "trigger" ground (that's what I'll call it), so this will in essence perform the same as what I am doing with the separate Side Winder Solenoid anyway.

So clear in hindsight, bugger.. Oh well thanks again D4D!! Back under the bonnet for me!! :lol:

At least I get to re-use my 8 Ton Crimper again!!! :lol:


Thanks again D4D, I owe you one.

Bernie

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Thanks Brains,

Its fun and frustration at times (see above), but VERY rewarding in the end. (As you know.)

BT.