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  • Hi guys

    Was doing a bit of a search on probe cams.

    these two caught my attention based on probe head size.

    This one because it only has a 7mm head in size and a cheap $48.40 delivered but lappy needs to be windows operating system. Also does USB 2.0
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB-Video...item4ab8042223

    This one has a head size of 5.5mm but is more of a high end at $324 delivered
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BORE-SCOP...item3a72409670

    Second one is a bit premium in price but i will be going for the latter.

    Most of the others are between 10 to 12mm heads and too big for the sump drain.

    Cheers

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Riv39 View Post
      Hey Kev, wonder whether they will charge for the camera inspection? Place your bets......

      Roo, can you open a franchise in Sydney please?
      I'm hoping to prey on that customer service thing he was talking about and just get them to look, that and the fixed price service thing
      Kev,

      2010 Silver 5dr GXL, Auto, diesel, ARB Deluxe bar, ARB bash plates, lightforce 170's, safari snorkel, towbar, dual batteries, air bags, trans cooler, Kings/Koni's, ARB rack, Cooper S/T Maxx's, Rock Tamers, Beaudesert 2.75" exhaust and more to come.

      Comment


      • I bought an Aldi probe on 19/5/12. The head is 15mm diameter, and as Frederick (blog #94) said, it won't go up the sump drain hole. That said it seems a fairly good unit, with a screen and is battery powered (so need to to have a PC with you). Can take stills and movie with SD card installed. However I am now thinking about taking it back, as I would like a probe small enough to go into the hole and look around.

        Comment


        • Hi guys

          Here are the part numbers and torque settings for the 1KD-D4D for the home mechanic.

          NOTE: If a home handy-man intends to attempt doing the injector seals and is not experienced or at least has the general knowledge to do so then it is crucial to be aware of the general procedures that is needed when pulling apart a common-rail diesel due to its high sensitivity to contaminants as small as a pin-prick and the need to be aware of the true dangers of high pressure leaks if not assembled properly.... This is not just a disclaimer but a serious note to be observed.

          If you are not confidant to do the job then give the job to your diesel mechanic or it could work out to be much more expensive in the long run

          The * means you "Must replace with new".

          It is crucial to use a torque wrench so washers/seals etc are not crushed (over tightened) could cause premature leak.

          New type injector seating washer 11176-30011 - (Old: 11176-30010).

          All prices are approx in Aussie dollars.

          *23682-30020 - Head cover seal x4 ------------- $07.81 each
          *23681-30010 - Nozzle seal holder x4 ---------- $03.34 each
          *96721-19017 - O-ring Seal X4 ----------------- $02.28 each
          *11176-30011 - Injection Nozzle Washer X4 ----- $03.86 each
          *90904-30013 - Return line washer X5 ---------- $03.51 each

          Torque setting injector clamp bolts x4 to the cylinder head: - Nm = 22 or ft-lbf = 16
          Torque setting fuel return line x4 from the injectors: ------- Nm = 16 or ft-lbf = 12
          Torque setting fuel return line x1 to the cylinder head: ----- Nm = 13 or ft-lbf = 9

          Tip: Make sure that there is "No" residual oil in the injector bolt threads or this could cause hydraulic of the bolt or a false torque setting.

          Here is a sight you can order Genuine parts from. (Just make an account).
          http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=

          Engine oil press @ idle: ------ 29kpa (4.2psi) or more.
          Engine oil press @ 3,000 rpm: - 245kpa ( 36psi) or more..... These pressures will vary depending on choice of oil viscosity and engine wear so are only approx as a guide with the engine at running temp.

          Oil pan drain bolts x 13: --- Nm = 9 or ft-lbf = 6.6
          Oil strainer nuts x 2: ------ Nm = 8 or ft-lbf = 6.0
          *15149-67010 - Gasket metal (Oil strainer) x 1 - $4.34 (Advised to change if strainer removed as would be critical if draws air at the gasket).

          threebond SS1 hight temp rtv grey or Locktite bluemax 587 or Hylomar blue or some other equivalent to seal the oil-pan.

          Hope this is helpful for the small guy trying to save bucks if out of warranty.

          Cheers

          Comment


          • I've been reading this thread and others on this forum re. the alleged injector issue on the 150 series and am a little confused.

            Is there any proof that a 150 has indeed suffered an injection issue failure? Not a 120, not a Hilux or any equivalent .. but a 150? Forgive me if I have missed it - but I have read almost every entry on this subject....

            References are made to the 120/Hilux and the like which, whilst they may have similar D4D engines, do not have the 150s engine with all its modifications etc.

            Someone said there is a general recall for D4D engines in the UK. This is not the case for the 150 series 2009 or later.... at least I can find no record of this. There never was any 'recall' notice for 120s or Hilux in the UK - just a 'service advisory notice' as and when the vehicle came in for service. I had a 2003 120 series before I bought the 150 and if you read the 120 series UK Toyota Land Cruiser site will find nobody else did either...

            The service bulletins do not refer to the 150..... at least I'm hoping this is the case ... but in any event have bought another two year warranty from Toyota for when the three year jobby expires in October....:-}

            Comment


            • I believe Roo had the injectors replaced on his 150 before he sold it. No doubt he will confirm. There have been a few others who have posted about the rattle who had 150s but not sure if there were any other confirmed reports of changes.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • Having looked through the threads again I cannot find any 'user name' of Roo or anything similar. Maybe his/her username is something else....and this is just a nickname?

                In any event.... I don't look forward to being proved wrong.... and am hoping, still, there is no evidence of the 150 series engine failing due to dodgy injector seals....:-{

                Comment


                • Originally posted by dannyson View Post
                  Having looked through the threads again I cannot find any 'user name' of Roo or anything similar. Maybe his/her username is something else....and this is just a nickname?
                  You should send a PM to ##########. I remember him saying he all 4 injectors were replaced but can't remember if the injetor seals were at fault.
                  [B]Declan[/B]: [SIZE=1]1997 GXL 4.5 Auto 80 series on [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], ARB bullbar, 2" OME lift, 32" MTZ, GME UHF, rear ARB locker, Kaymar spare wheel carrier[/SIZE]
                  [B]PLANNED[/B]: [SIZE=1]3 or 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift (maybe), winch, 35" MTZ + roadies, front locker, sliders, cylinder head rebuilt for [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], Garret [COLOR="#4499ff"][B]Turbocharger[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]

                  Comment


                  • I believe it was bad/failed injectors causing the death rattle not the oils seals but check with ########## as williade suggests.

                    There certainly has been at least one D4D engine with the old incorrect oils seals from what I have read. The engine was in a hilux BUT it was a 2010 build. I do not believe there is any huge difference between the basic D4D in the hilux and the 150 outside of the intercooler location but even that could be thesame.
                    Riv39
                    Advanced Member
                    Last edited by Riv39; 04-06-2012, 12:44 PM.
                    2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto

                    Comment


                    • Well ..... it seems we've put this alleged injector oil seal failure on the 150 to bed...... at least for the time being.

                      Hopefully no one will experience this failure on the 150 .... it doesn't look as though anyone has..... (not a hilux or any other derivitive... but a 150).

                      Comment


                      • No it's not, did you read my last post....at least one 2010 D4D had the incorrect seals
                        2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto

                        Comment


                        • I have been watching very carefully since buying my 2010 150 series, threads and posts here in relation to this issue. One thing that was raised with me today at my local dealer (I had a whine that has unfortunately appears to be damage to the compressor turbine, but it is being replaced under warranty) is that when the valve settings are checked, the injector washers should be replaced. Perhaps some have cut corners and not checked valve clearances, hence the injector washers were not changed, and damaged leaking seals were not found?? I will be asking for my injector washers to be changed every 20,000K service from now on, I dont mind paying a few dollars more for peace of mind......

                          Comment


                          • I also have a 2012 150 D4D and also follow with interest this dicussion...and I have been told, repeatedly, by three different Toyota dealers, that the scheduled "valve" clearance check is just a "audible noise check"...ie, if there is determined to be no undue noise coming from the valves, then the vlave clearance is not physically checked....honestly, thats what I have been told. One dealer asked for the car to be left overnight so it could be checked (audibly) when cold in the morning, the other two didn't seem to know anything about checking cold valve clearances....what hope do we have?....I don't know if changing the injector seals every 20,000km is warranted myself, but certainly something needs to be done...any other comments or experiences folks?
                            SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

                            Comment


                            • Thats interesting you have been told its an audible check brogers, I think that is a cost saving execise by some dealers. As far as I am concerned if they are noisy then they are way out, whilst some mechanics have good hearing, how many can tell you what the clearance is by ear??. Its probably over the top having the washers changed every 20,000, but the way I look at it, its cheap insurance when you consider the options, breaking down in the middle of no where..... when I am on my yearly holiday with boat in tow, the minister of finance is with me, and we have half way across the Barkley highway into the NT..... I was also advised today by mechanic that Toyota are now aware and looking into the issue of injector washers......

                              Comment


                              • Well, we dropped off our 2010 150's for it's 40k overnight service. While I was there I managed to have a good chat with the head mechanic and showed them a printed copy of the info & pictures from this post. More on that later.....
                                According to the mechanic, the 40k service is a valve clearance check only + they do replace what I can only describe as what looks like a Rubber Cap of some sort (I'll try and find the proper name for it and what where it goes).

                                Talking with the head mechanic after showing him the injector pics, he went on to say the he had seen that b4 but had nothing to do with the injector seal at the base of the injector, instead more to do with the rubber O-ring 1/2 way along the injector itself. He said that if this is not inserted carefully, that the o-ring can catch on a sharp edge and be damaged, thus over time allowing oil to work its way past the o-ring and down to the base of the injector resulting in what the picture shows.....He did also say that Toyota did change the injector seals from copper to the current tin coated ones. He also said that he has not yet heard of any issues relating to the current injector seals and that he is regularly in contact with Toyota Aust and to date there has been nothing. He also stated that should any Toyota Dealer come across this sort of issue during service, that the required process is to contact Toyota Aust to get one of the head Tech's out to inspect and then follow it up from there. IF any Dealers are found that they are or have been doing the wrong thing, then any warranty issues with those vehicles in relation to them not following the correct Toyota process/guidelines would have to be funded by that dealer.....

                                I still can't help but think that with the 1000's of D4D's that are sold here in Aust in various formats since 2006 that if this was a design problem, then there should be 100's of claims by now..... There would have to be some D4D engines out there with upwards of 2>300,000kms on them by now and still going strong. I keep thinking that there must be some common thing with these people that have had this issue. Whether it be driving styles / weather / driving conditions / dodgy servicing / Oil Brand.... there must be something otherwise this issue would be all over the media and around the world by now..... I wouldn't think Toyota would want another bad media event like they had in the US some time ago.....

                                but then again as time goes on, who knows what might become of this problem......


                                Before heading out the Dealer's door, they did agree to have a look up through the sump with a probe, so hopefully that will give me some peace of mind.... + the all clear
                                [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
                                [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
                                [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
                                [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
                                [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

                                Comment

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