So 400N, 300N, 200N are too strong. Shirl's 100N is looking like a good choice at the moment! I guess you are going to try 150N next Andrew? Be interested to hear how it goes.
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Rear door gas strut mod
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Originally posted by Corigator View PostAm I missing something here? Why is everyone quoting nm. (should be Nm actually, nm = nano-meters) I thought that was a unit of torque. The struts should be quoting newtons force (N). Or am I wrong?
:~
While some may say you views are a little bumpy, I think you are right, then again my opinion has its ups and downs and some say is not even. (OK, so maybe I am the only one laughing at this humorous attempt).
mlc - don't give up my day job.[B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]
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Originally posted by DocK View PostSo 400N, 300N, 200N are too strong. Shirl's 100N is looking like a good choice at the moment! I guess you are going to try 150N next Andrew? Be interested to hear how it goes.
I still like it to be strong though so it can hold the door open.
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Originally posted by MidLifeCrisis View PostCorigator
While some may say you views are a little bumpy, I think you are right, then again my opinion has its ups and downs and some say is not even. (OK, so maybe I am the only one laughing at this humorous attempt).
mlc - don't give up my day job.Greg - 08 D4D Prado,
Some trips done - Cape York, Fraser Island, Simpson Desert / Central Aust, Vic High Country.
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Bugger, or if you like "what could possibly go wrong", the strut mount on the door is going to need a reinforcing plate. The bolt mount in the door is bending so I will need to make up a sandwich plate with additional bolts thru the base of the door before it pulls it out completely. Otherwise it is fine.
Cheers
DocK2007 Prado VX D4D, With a lot less options lately!
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Bump: Just wondering what the outcome was of this? After seeing SimonW's new 150 on the weekend with it's great new strut design for the 150's I'm keen to see we can do something similar on the 120.2007 GXL V6 - ARB Bullbar with LED lights, snorkel, extractors, 2 1/4" dual exhaust, K&N filter, dimpled/slotted rotors, headrest dvd players, Ebay Satnav/reverse camera, GME 3100TX, Tigerz11 Side awning on custom brackets with Maxtrax mounts, 300W Invertor, ARB Underbody protection, Lightbar and STZ 265/70 tyres.
Wish list in order I'll get them: Sliders, 2" lift, E-locker, Winch bar with winch.
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Love this mod. i did this today with a little stuffing around but got there in the end. As shirl and dock said about installing it.
i used:
Length 585 strut, Strength 250N and 60% damping with the oil.
Works real well for me need a bit of help opening on hill but at least it stays open once its close to or is open.
Thanks everyone for this sweet mod.
Ps if i have any problems with it I'm sure i will post something
Shout-out to Strut Re-Gas company for a their time helping me out.Last edited by simpson247; 30-08-2014, 07:24 PM.
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Rear door strut
From others help I went to my local strut Re-gas store and got a strut fitted for the back door.
Here is what I ended up with
- 1x 610mm 8mm shaft strut with 310N and 60% oil dampening.
First off all remove the factory rear door lock bracket. Then cut off the excess of the M8 stud on the vehicle side of the bracket and paint accordingly. Install door bracket and screw in strut studs. Simply fit the strut and that’s pretty much all there is to it.
It is relatively firm to close but it is a lot better than it slamming shut. On a fair gradient leaning down towards the passenger side the strut does hold the door open.
The Re-gas owner recommended putting a safety stop on the strut but so far I don’t see the need for it.
I would strongly recommend making a reinforcement plate for the strut pivot on the door. I made min from 3mm plate and riveted it to the door with stainless 6mm rivets. Without this the door panel flex ‘a lot’ on the hinge.
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hello all!
Just wondering how this mode went? is it still holding up well without and bending etc of the panels? Does it stop the door flinging open in the wind? My door now needs to be replaced due to a stong wind and I am looking for ways to stop this happening in the future..White 2008 GXL V6 Petrol Prado with 2" lift, TJM T-15 Alloy Bar, TJM Snorkel, Sidesteps, Rhinorack Pioneer platform, 2.5x2.5m Awning, 2 HID Spotties, 20" lightbar, 2x rear LED worklights, 1 LED side camp light
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I'm really happy with this mod. Wife likes it too. With full hands you can pop the catch and it will open itself slowly on flat surface. On the uphill it opens enough to get in and use body to open the rest if need be. Definitely no slamming open or shut but when closing uphill definitely requires some effort to close but nothing that my wife can't do so really happy.
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Originally posted by amts View PostI've tried both struts on and they are both too strong, i.e. it flings the door open on flat ground. And obviously no damping when it opens. So will need to revisit the strut regas guy for some oil.
I did not cut down the stem of the existing door stay like DocK and Shirl and I will need to do that as the body of the strut comes in contact with the door skin.
The other option would be one painful experience!!!SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING
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SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING
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