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Thread: Prado wiring check

  1. #1
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    Prado wiring check

    Gday, Was hoping to get some feedback into the way I wired up the dual battery system & tekonsha brake controller etc into my Prado 150 & Jayco Hawk camer trailer. I did it all a few months back & all seems to work ok, however something seems to be not right with the electric brakes to the camper trailer. When I had a similar setup in my previous vechile (Kluger) the camper trailer brakes would lockup with ease, with the Prado setup I cant get them to lock even though I've replaced brake magnets / machined drums & installed heavier gauged wire. The current seems good & I'm pretty sure it's on the prado side of the wiring.


    I've just put together this diagram as to how I've wired it up & would apreciate if anyone can see anything that may attribute to this or have a suggestion ?

    http://i40.tinypic.com/v6j8mp.jpg

    2010 Prado GXL D4D Auto , BFG A/T , DVD Console , Tekonsha P3 , Projecta Dual battery system , Piranha dual battery tray..
    Jayco Hawk Outback

  2. #2
    Admin #3! Matty & Loz's Avatar
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    I believe that Pin 2 on the prado trailer connector requires a constant 12Vdc supply. Has this been setup on the prado? Last install of the P3 i did needed this (although only found out after), and I've assuming the trailer is correct as it has worked previously?

    Believe there is some info on this somewhere.
    Last edited by Matty & Loz; 27-01-2012 at 11:29 PM.
    2007 D4D 120 GXL Automatic - BLACK

  3. #3
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    Gday ss--ss

    The wire that shows the brake light bulb in your diagram "is" the power supply from the brake light switch to the controller isn't it? (It should be!).

    Here is the wiring diagram for the "Tekonsha brake controller" to make it simpler to understand
    http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

    Here also is the wiring diagram for all different types of trailer sockets.
    http://www.campertrailers.org/traile...ng_diagram.htm

    Hope this helps or at least point you in the right direction!

    Cheers

  4. #4
    Member footoo's Avatar
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    You appear to have it wired up ok, the diagrams skywalkerrun refered to are the same as what I used. the only thing to suggest and it should not make any difference is where you have taken the brake sense wire from. Did you wire it from the stop light or the brake pedal? Mine is wired from the brake pedal everything else is the same as yours and it works fine (I'm towing a Trakmaster "Gibson")

    The only other thing I can think of is to check the earth connections (pin 3) in you trailer plug and socket, relying on the towball/chains for continuity is not a good thing especially if you are using a treg hitch.

    Pin 2 is what some van/ct people use to power their 3 way fridges from the vehicle rather than the trailer bat.
    Blue Storm 150 D4D GXL, Toyota Tow Bar, Cheepo floor mats, Tough Dog Springs & Shocks, Colour Coded TJM T13 steel bar, KingOne winch with rope, GME 3440 80 channel uhf. Not allowed to make hole for snorkel - yet..

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys for the replies.. I tried a few things on the weekend & it started to work & lockup intermitently..
    Actually found the negative wire on the trailer brake magnet had been knicked in half by suspension or a large rock, so it was still working but wire only had a few strands for current to travel through.. Soldered it up & now full lock when I slide the tekonsha brake controller manual lever ..

    Cheers,
    Don
    2010 Prado GXL D4D Auto , BFG A/T , DVD Console , Tekonsha P3 , Projecta Dual battery system , Piranha dual battery tray..
    Jayco Hawk Outback

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Skywalkerrun View Post
    Gday ss--ss

    The wire that shows the brake light bulb in your diagram "is" the power supply from the brake light switch to the controller isn't it? (It should be!).
    Not on the 150, On the 150 you have to ruan a wire to the back and take power from the brake light itself.

    Cheers
    Alan
    (The MK II) 2012 GXL Auto Diesel, White, ARB Bull Bar, Warn 9500lb XDC Winch, ARB Alloy Roof Rack, Aussieoutdoordirect Awning, Toyota Tow Bar, Safari Snorkel, ORS Rear Drawers and Fridge Slide, ARB Battery System with REDARC isolator, ERPS 10 Pad electronic Rust Cont, 275/65/17 BFG AT's, Jumbuck Sheep Skin Seat Covers, REDARC EBRH Brake Controller, OME 2" lift kit, Air Bag Man high pressure air bags, ARB CKMA12 on board compressor.

  7. #7

    Wiring clarification.........

    Allan, not sure what you mean by, "Not on the 150, On the 150 you have to run a wire to the back and take power from the brake light itself."

    With the Tekonsha and most other electronic brake controllers, power for the electric brakes is supplied by the vehicle battery via a resettable 30amp CB to the electronic controller, and then when braking, to the electric brakes via the 'blue' wire. The amount of current passed (amps) is determined by the inertial braking force needed and the user settings on the controller. The brake light connection (or in some cases the brake switch connection) tells the brake controller that you have applied the brakes (that's all), then the controller passes the right amount of current from the vehicle battery to operate the electric brakes. The current return to the vehicle battery is via the common earth system, which is why earth connections between the caravan and the tow vehicle are so important.

    Anyway I'm assuming you mean the "signal" from the brake light on the 150 to the electronic controller (so it only needs to be a light wire guage), rather than "power", but worth clarifying for other readers.

    Rgds, Rob

  8. #8
    Correct Rob, I was just clarifying a comment by Skywalkerrun in which he appeared to suggest you should take the "Signal" from the switch on the break pedal which you are not supposed to do on the 150.

    Cheers
    Alan
    (The MK II) 2012 GXL Auto Diesel, White, ARB Bull Bar, Warn 9500lb XDC Winch, ARB Alloy Roof Rack, Aussieoutdoordirect Awning, Toyota Tow Bar, Safari Snorkel, ORS Rear Drawers and Fridge Slide, ARB Battery System with REDARC isolator, ERPS 10 Pad electronic Rust Cont, 275/65/17 BFG AT's, Jumbuck Sheep Skin Seat Covers, REDARC EBRH Brake Controller, OME 2" lift kit, Air Bag Man high pressure air bags, ARB CKMA12 on board compressor.

  9. #9
    Member footoo's Avatar
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    Where did that info come from, I have tekonsha P3 the brake signal wire is from the top of my brake pedal into the unit and I have not had any problems, the unit is looking for +12 volts to trigger it and that is what I measured coming from the correct wire off the top of the pedal. Brakes are working fine on the van.

    Is there something else I should be aware of??
    Blue Storm 150 D4D GXL, Toyota Tow Bar, Cheepo floor mats, Tough Dog Springs & Shocks, Colour Coded TJM T13 steel bar, KingOne winch with rope, GME 3440 80 channel uhf. Not allowed to make hole for snorkel - yet..

  10. #10
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    Gday, When I wired mine I ran the brake trigger wire to the light globe in the rear. Mainly because it was easy to find there & I had to run the blue wire down that path anyway.
    2010 Prado GXL D4D Auto , BFG A/T , DVD Console , Tekonsha P3 , Projecta Dual battery system , Piranha dual battery tray..
    Jayco Hawk Outback

  11. #11
    Footoo. I'm currently wiring up a controller to my 150. The auto-electrician where I bought my circuit breaker and extra wire believes that you need to run the brake trigger signal from the rear light rather than the wire above the pedal because the 150's and most late model vehicles have a Canbus system. This means that wiring off the brake pedal can interfere with the brake lighting and other related electrical systems.

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