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ROOFRACKS - What are 150 owners using???

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  • I wanted a roof rack that I could fit in 10 or 15 minutes so that it wasn't on the roof the whole time. Carpark heights are an issue as is the added wind drag. We don't use the roof rack other than camping trips or taking kayaks away so it was important that the system be simple. We also don't carry much weight so a dedicated roof mounted system to use the full 100kg capacity wasn't needed.

    I finished off fitting the 1800 x 1200 Jaram Tracklander to the factory rails today. I was going to try and fit 3 sets of feet on the rails but the spacing just isn't right, there is of course no need so in the end I gave in.

    The Tracklander is made for either direct fitment to the roof with Rhino feet or fitting to the factory NS rails with Rhino CXB feet. Rhino have not tested the CXB feet to the 150 and do not recommend them however Jaram are happy and a few PPers have used them. The 150 rails are larger and at an angle compared with the 120 but having fitted the rack a few times now I am confident the CXB feet will work well.

    The first problem I encountered was that the rails welded into the bottom of the Tracklander weren't in the correct position to mount the rack to the factory rails. You could mount it but the feet were barely 600 apart which left huge overhangs at each end. I contacted Jaram and arranged for another couple of rails to be welded with end plates and then sent to me for fitting. Jaram were very good and if you can wait they will custom make the set up with welded rails. I don't know what extra cost will be involved but powder coat to match, freight and two rails was a couple of hundred.

    After careful measuring I decided the absolute maximum centre distance would be a little over 900 apart. So I settled on the magic number of 890. It actually came out a little longer than that but close enough. I had a problem initially because the new additional rails had been made by cutting off the width of the end plates and then welding these together so when they arrived the rails didn't fit. A combination of a few mm of heavy powder coat and shrinkage on the rack base that wasn't allowed for. Another call to Jaram and I was ok to grind a couple of mm of each end plate to suit. This was quite frustrating because I had the materials and gear to make these myself but decided to keep Jaram in the loop for anyone who wanted to do this with factory bits. Anyway no problem, rails marked and fitted. To fit the rails I drilled and tapped M8 into the bottom frame of the roof rack which is a D section in aluminium and 3mm thick. Loctite and lock washers fitted with allen key head screws and the extra rails were installed. Not much leeway for fitting with the end plates being predrilled and only 0.5mm tolerance on position. Anyway all fitted without having to go larger on the endplate holes.



    These rails take the place of the conventional crossbars and are integral to the roof rack itself keeping height down. The CXB feet have a design to allows the feet to slide into the cross bar extrusion but the little wings need to be cut off to let the feet fit up into the Jaram rails. There is no downside to this as the feet are securely bolted to the rails with an M8 bolt and captive nut.



    I trial fitted this to the car last weekend and found that space under the rack to get to and tighten the crossbar attachment bolts was very tight. The camber (arch) in the factory rails also meant I could fit a 3rd foot along the way so I decided to buy some spacers and space the front and rear feet 6mm. This would compensate for the rail camber and let me mount the extra feet as well as giving me more room to swing a spanner.

    It became pretty clear that I could not mount the roof rack centrally (or a little to the rear as I have done) and still fit the 3rd set of CXB feet as below so that idea went.



    The 6mm spacer is easily seen here.



    The spacers are held in with M6 screws and form a solid addition to the CXB feet.
    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

    Comment


    • I was hoping that I could position the rack and then tighten the crossbar attachement bolts so all I had to do was loosen off the security screws, slide the feet out and pull the rack off so it will go back very quickly. No way will the feet come loose unless the bolts are loose too. Not a big deal but adds a few minutes to the fitup and you have to get your hands under the ends of the rack to tighten or loosen the bolts. I have a 13mm ratchet spanner and with that it is an easy enough job but you still want to make sure the roof is clean because your arms will be on there moving around.



      The rack is pretty much the length overall of the factory rails. With the 4 CXB feet and spacers it weighs just 23kg. Taking the 80kg capacity into account that gives me a comfortable 55kg which is plenty. We carry camping chairs and sleeping bags up there when we go away or the kayaks (3 for a total of 55kg with support frame) or the solar panel.





      Overhangs are pretty even though the whole rack sits towards the rear by about 50mm.

      The spacing on the rails means I can drill a couple of holes and bolt the Traxrax directly to the rack. I haven't checked how to mount the newly acquired solar panel but I think the proprietary clamps will be ok and I will weld longer feet on them to span the weldmesh floor of the Jaram rack. Tomorrow's job if the weather is ok.

      The Traklander top frame is narrower all round than the bottom frame so that means the sliding awning brackets I made up for the old Jaram rack simply wont fit so they will stay with the old rack which will probably get used on the ute. I will have to make up a new system completely and I am leaning towards a beam arrangement like the Fred's arm rather than the sliding thing I made up last time. Probably end up buying a new awning for the 150 and leave the ute with the old lot. Since I saw how convenient JPH's set up of awnings and swags was that makes a lot of sense to me.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

      Comment


      • Overall I am quite happy with how it has come out. Price wise it has ended up quite similar to the set up I was going to make for a Rhino tray and I have ended up with more carrying capacity due to the lighter weight of the Jaram rack. I am not worried that it is too light because my previous roof rack is also a Jaram and it is now over 15 years old. I have drilled plenty of holes in that without any suggestion of it being compromised for strength.



        This is the old girl. I will put another set of pulleys up in the car port roof space and have the two racks sit fore and aft. That way I can fit the rack on my own without damaging the roof or sides or my back.

        Not the best of weather today but here is a fitted shot.



        If you are after a light rack that is pretty easy to fit and remove I can recommend this arrangement. Putting the extra rails in is easy enough as long as you have the tools and know how to swing them, otherwise leave it to Jaram or a mate because the holes have to be in the right spot and tapped properly to make sure the rack is secure.
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

        Comment


        • I'd like to be able to carry some bikes, as well as possibly a luggage box on our new 150. Is there a particular system (or combo) that would best do those two tasks?

          Comment


          • Originally posted by maomaocat View Post
            I'd like to be able to carry some bikes, as well as possibly a luggage box on our new 150. Is there a particular system (or combo) that would best do those two tasks?
            Probably one of the open trays would be the best bet. Plenty of spots to screw into the open channels. Depends how much weight you will have because the Rhino platform is quite heavy.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

            Comment


            • You guys can check ut my built thread, i got the rhino rack nd i have had lights added to it, pretty easy to remove, even easer if decide to have a hoist sytem like mjrandom! nice work, i think i might copy it!.
              Also the lights area all wires back to 1 point which unclips and tucks in behind the door i ever wantt o take the rack off.. but being biase i think mine looks mean so i leave it on!

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              • I ended up going with the Rhino Pioneer platform around 1.4 x1.2 black colour and Rhino feet that attach to the existing factory rails, and to keep my gear dry a bush ranger Bush Pak the same dimensions works a treat very happy
                2013 150 GXL TD Silver: OME Lift 50mm: Haymen Reece Towbar: ARB Delux bar: XRay Vision Hd 90w Driving Lights: front recovery Points:redarc bcdc with solar input on the bar, dual battery: redarc Brake Controler:rhino Pioneer Platform: Bush Ranger wheelie bag and roof bag

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                • Click image for larger version

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                  2013 150 GXL TD Silver: OME Lift 50mm: Haymen Reece Towbar: ARB Delux bar: XRay Vision Hd 90w Driving Lights: front recovery Points:redarc bcdc with solar input on the bar, dual battery: redarc Brake Controler:rhino Pioneer Platform: Bush Ranger wheelie bag and roof bag

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                  • I have the rhino xtray.great value and great sizeClick image for larger version

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                    2012 Altitude Petrol with Snorkel, Factory Lowline bar, HR Towbar, HID upgrade, Icom 440N UHF and more to come. Check our my travels on [url]http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog/dennisozexplore/1/tpod.html[/url]

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                    • Must be strong to support the weight of the vehicle like that . ( might wanna rotate your images)


                      Sent from my iPhone thingy
                      2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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                      • Originally posted by bdee View Post
                        I have the rhino xtray.great value and great size[ATTACH=CONFIG]13896[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]13896[/ATTACH]
                        bdee that's the exact set up I'm considering....Is that the 'large' size Xtray? and any ideas on what height the 150's measuring now ?
                        2010 Toyota Prado GXL V6 4.0i - Silver Pearl - ARB Deluxe Bar - Warn Magnum Winch - GME UHF - Dual Battery - Redarc 1225 - Cooper AT3's
                        [url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
                        [img]http://tickers.TickerFactory.com/ezt/d/4;10752;127/st/20140913/e/Riff+to+Tip+2014/dt/14/k/f753/event.png[/img]
                        [/url]

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                        • I am running with the Pioneer platform with lights and awnings.


                          2012 Pearl White VX, 3.0 Litre D4D Auto, Wynnum 2.5T Tow Bar, OME Lift, TJM Airtech snorkle, TJM diff breathers, Redarc EBRH, Projecta DBC100K, Lightforce XGT, EBC Nudge bar, Custom Recovery Points, TG150, ARB compressor, Pioneer Platform, Kaymar #K7123 /CDQ2195, 697 A/T's, Tin's DC trans cooler, MaxTrax on TraxRax, TJM DBS, Piranha Tray...

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                          • Hey VeeZee, I am looking at similar set up to you. Have a 2012 Altitude with OEM nudge bar fitted with 20 inch Lightforce LED light bar. Looking to put led light bar similar to your set up on a Pioneer platform. Have looked through a lot of threads but can't find enough detail. How did you rig up the power for the platform light bar? That is, how did you get it to the roof? Also interested in how you got it to the rear lights.

                            Is that the 1500 mm long platform? That's the one that I'm looking at because Altitude has the sun roof and talking to people there will be less light spill from the led bar on a 1500 instead of the 1900.

                            Appreciate your view and any info.
                            2012 Crystal Pearl Prado Altitude 150 Diesel Auto. Toyota mats and rear rubber mat. Toyo Open Country AT2's 265 65 R17 LT. OEM nudge bar. dual battery set up with Optima D34, rear power points front and rear Anderson plugs. Lightforce LED combi light bar. Kingsley side steps. Outback Ideas recovery points. Dr Air Pro 150 ltr air compressor. ARB 60 ltr fridge. GME 3550s UHF radio. Hema HX1.

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                            • Rhino pioneer platform 1900x1250 ish is a great roof rack. It has a low profile so you can still get it in the garage and under the car parks, even with a 2 inch lift and can carry plenty of gear and whisper quiet.
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                              • I've fitted the full length Tracklander using the supplied feet,I leave mine on as I also have a ladder fitted aswell.
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                                Fitted so far:-Toyota Alloy bar,Redarc BDCD1220 battery managment system and dual power outlet,tracklander full length rack and ladder,Milford cargo barrier,Kaon transmission guard, UVP& Lower Shock mount Guards,Dobinson/Bilstein suspension,Toyota Bonnet and headlight guards,39ltr engel and an opposite lock stubby holder (from the old '80' series),Polyair Airbags,Pradopoint sticker,Gonefishin' custom Sidesteps.

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