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Product:
Pacemaker PH 12660 "LANDCRUISER PRADO | 3.4 LITRE V6 | 1996-Feb 03"
http://www.pacemaker.com.au/toyota_6cyl.html
Old vs new:
Impressions:
First day: On startup I instantly noticed a nice subtle purr, but I've kept the stock tail end so it's not over done like the ricers with those big canons. The resonating flat spot at 2,700-3,000 had gone, and it now revs through easier. On heavy reving there's some air flow sound.
Second day: Take off accelleration 0-100km/h on the highway seemed quicker. Not jaw dropping of course, just a subtle change. Whilst 4x4ing the purring sounded great, especially noticable on any slow inclines. Check out the video Declan uploaded yesterday - you'll get to hear mine vs the blue 3.4L with stock exhaust. http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post302157
Third day: Again, the take off accelleration 0-80km/h seemed quicker. I think it revs through the range a little quicker without that flat spot.
Bottom line, feels and sounds a bit nicer if you're paying attention, but it doesn't transform the vehicle. In the scheme of things you'd be better off saving the $600 (parts only) for a diff locker if you don't already have one, but I do, so I'm very happy with it. My only regret was not changing my aging starter motor at the same time, because it looks like the headers are in the way now, making the pending starter swap even more painful.
Tips for install:
- The old nuts can be extremely hard to undo so prepare them ahead of time with a nut/bolt penetrating lubricant. I had no issues at the top end, but one of the driver side junctions almost became a cut off job.
- You need a good set of socket tools to remove the old gear. I used all 3 extensions and the universal joint, plus a 600mm breaker bar. Getting the new headers on in a reasonable time requires a 14mm ratchet spanner.
- If your starter motor has any signs of issues, consider replacing it (especially automatic owners who enjoy river crossings or splashing in mud).
- You'll lose the heat shields with this upgrade.
- The automatic kick down cable will need to be tied off, away from the extractors, as the standard heat sheild/guide is permanently removed.
Parts temporarily removed during the process:
- front bash plates
- front wheels and rubber splash guards (between wheel well and engine bay)
- automatic kick down cable bracket
- automatic dip stick pipe
- air box, and ducting to intake
- power steering pump/bracket (just loosened)
- some studs from the block (instructions say 5 of them, but I got away with just 2).
Pacemaker PH 12660 "LANDCRUISER PRADO | 3.4 LITRE V6 | 1996-Feb 03"
http://www.pacemaker.com.au/toyota_6cyl.html
Old vs new:
Impressions:
First day: On startup I instantly noticed a nice subtle purr, but I've kept the stock tail end so it's not over done like the ricers with those big canons. The resonating flat spot at 2,700-3,000 had gone, and it now revs through easier. On heavy reving there's some air flow sound.
Second day: Take off accelleration 0-100km/h on the highway seemed quicker. Not jaw dropping of course, just a subtle change. Whilst 4x4ing the purring sounded great, especially noticable on any slow inclines. Check out the video Declan uploaded yesterday - you'll get to hear mine vs the blue 3.4L with stock exhaust. http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post302157
Third day: Again, the take off accelleration 0-80km/h seemed quicker. I think it revs through the range a little quicker without that flat spot.
Bottom line, feels and sounds a bit nicer if you're paying attention, but it doesn't transform the vehicle. In the scheme of things you'd be better off saving the $600 (parts only) for a diff locker if you don't already have one, but I do, so I'm very happy with it. My only regret was not changing my aging starter motor at the same time, because it looks like the headers are in the way now, making the pending starter swap even more painful.
Tips for install:
- The old nuts can be extremely hard to undo so prepare them ahead of time with a nut/bolt penetrating lubricant. I had no issues at the top end, but one of the driver side junctions almost became a cut off job.
- You need a good set of socket tools to remove the old gear. I used all 3 extensions and the universal joint, plus a 600mm breaker bar. Getting the new headers on in a reasonable time requires a 14mm ratchet spanner.
- If your starter motor has any signs of issues, consider replacing it (especially automatic owners who enjoy river crossings or splashing in mud).
- You'll lose the heat shields with this upgrade.
- The automatic kick down cable will need to be tied off, away from the extractors, as the standard heat sheild/guide is permanently removed.
Parts temporarily removed during the process:
- front bash plates
- front wheels and rubber splash guards (between wheel well and engine bay)
- automatic kick down cable bracket
- automatic dip stick pipe
- air box, and ducting to intake
- power steering pump/bracket (just loosened)
- some studs from the block (instructions say 5 of them, but I got away with just 2).
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